Table saw / router table combination question

[ejb]

Hi guys...

I have this table saw:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000EI965/qid=1115908612/sr=8-8/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i8_xgl60/002-6919885-0288026?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846]amazon picture


As you can see by the picture, besides the regular cast-iron table it has a laminate extension table to the right of the operator...approx 2x2'.

I also have a nice Porter-cable router, but a really, really cheap table-top router stand that is so flimsy it barely worth keeping....

Shop space is limited, but not super tight.

I had a thought the other day: is there any reason I can't drill a big 2" diameter hole into my table saw extension, and mount my router under there? The table is superheavy (steady), has a really nice fence that could double as a router fence, and it would take up zero extra space in the shop....

Anyone know of any good reason I wouldn't want to do that?

-EJB

 

[63DH8]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Anyone know of any good reason I wouldn't want to do that?

-EJB )</font>

Cause you wouldn't be able to convert it over to PTO drive?

 

[Villengineer]

I have a fairly nice older Craftsman table saw and have added one of their router-table extensions on it. I don't see any real "problems" with what you want to do, but there are a few things that come to mind that you would have to consider. 1) You'll need to have some "plugs" to fill in around your bits as that 2" hole might be a problem snagging the edge of your work piece. My set-up has a few of these with different IDs. 2) You'll want a remote power switch as you don't want to have to reach way up under the table to control power to the router. 3) You'll either want to make a seperate fence system or make an attachment to go onto your current fence. Even though I have a really nice fence system on my saw, I use the fence that came with the extension when I use the router. The first reason is that I don't want to cut my main fence to clear the router bits. I find that I do a lot of edge routing and need that gap in the fence. The router fence also can be offset so that it can be used like a jointer. 4) If your laminate extension doen't have any guide slots cut into it, you'll find it difficult to use jigs and such.
This project is doable, you'll just have to figure out how functional you want it vs. how much time & $ you want to spend on it. Does Delta have a router extension or is it too $?

 

[Egon]

It will work.

I built my own router table. It sits on a workmate stand. With the router removed its quite easy to store.

The tall fence in the picture is fastened to a shorter fence and can be removed. The shorter fence is two piece. There are two one piece fences of diffent heights that fit onto the short two piece fence. All are movable in slots and can be locked in place.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MaineTWLSB]

Just my Piondexter thought of the day....It will void the warrantry, correct?

(just ignore me, I'll go away at somepoint....)

 

[Villengineer]

That's a pretty cool set-up. What type of material did you use? The reason I ask is that I've had to scrap a couple homeade jigs and fences I made out of solid wood (oak, etc..) and even a top for my radial arm I made out of plywood due to warping/cupping. Also, looking at yours made another potential issue come to mind on the laminate top. It most likely has a particle board core that may not last long if you cut slots in it and actually use it much. They also don't like moisture. Just some other things to consider.

 

[Egon]

Re: router table.

It's made from 3/4 inch fir plywood. There is a center strip of 3/4 in. on the bottom that fits onto the workmate. The front edge has a 2 inch deep piece of 3/4 in. dadoed on to it to stop warping. It has shiny smooth stain finish that takes well to floor polish .

Height adjustment is a pain as I use a board for levering the plunge router to the desired height and then lock the router adjustments. The bits can be changed from the top.

I have replaced the radial arm saw table top with 3/4 in. ply with 1/4 in ply on the very top to take all the saw cuts. It is substancially larger than the original.

K3 board equates to four letter words in my small life and I do not use it.

Attached a picture of the first router table I built. It had short legs to sit on a bench top or would fit onto the workmate stand.

Egon

 

[jim_wilson]

If you are looking to save money I suppose that is one way to go. There are a number of manufacturers out there that make table saw extensions to hold a router, Bench Dog, Incra, etc. to name a few. Bench Dog actually has a cast iron extension wing that is all setup to take a router. The really nice ones have the router height adjustment mounted on the top so you dont have to even play with the router to adjust the height.

 

[PeterT]

How thick is your top? will your router bits reach up through the added thickness (router base plus saw top) may have to recess the router into the bottom of the table top. It should work though.

good luck PeterT

 

[johnday]

ejb; I've got the same tablesaw you have, but with the Delta Unifence. I've made a few router tables for myself when I was woodworking. Turned carpenter since. Yes, there is a difference. The same particle board used for countertops is probably the most cost effective material for router tables. And that just happens to be what the tableboard for your fence is made of. I bought whats called a routertable insert from some company that advertises in the popular woodworking magazines. It's a square piece of phenolic that is inserted into a recess cut in the table top from the top surface. Your router is mounted to it from underneath. To change bits, you just pull the whole thing out of the table, change bits, and make depth adjustments if needed. The plate takes the place of the router base plate. If you've got a plunge base, depth adjustments are easy to make without removing everything from the table.

I suggest if you're getting into woodworking, to look at some of the magazines like Wood, American Woodworker, and Fine woodworking. Those mags usually have some kind of router tips et. in most issues. Routers are versatile tools in the right hands. Another book I bought was The Router Handbook, from when I used to buy at Sears. I think I've seen it and other good books at the big box stores like Lowes.

It's pretty hard to give you advice for power tools jigs, fixtures, and the like. It seems that the best thing to do is see what others have in their shops, and use the ideas that suit you. These things are sort of personal, in that everyone has their own little quirks that make each setup work best for yourself. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Henro]

I like having a rounter next to my table saw blade, in a home made extension to the right. My saw is an old Craftsman 10" contractor's saw, that I added a unifence to and also a second cast iron table (that someone gave me) on the outside of the router area.

The router is mounted to one of several 1/8 inch aluminum plates I turned into bases. Each has a different hole to accomodate different sized bits, up to large raised panel bits.

I routed out a 1/8 area in a piece of micarta I had, that the aluminum base plates drop into. They are held in place by flat head screws countersunk into the aluminum, which thread into tee nuts inserted in the bottom of the micarta piece.

I use a small fence that I clamp to the unifence, and hook my shop vac system to it when routing to collect some of the chips produced.

What I have is similar to what you want to do. Keep in mind that if you want to use a large router bit you will need a large hole in the table extension.

Attached is a picture of what my setup looks like. I really like having the router there...I have a second smaller one to use so I don't have to always take the one in the saw table out and put it back, if I want to do some routing elsewhere. I also made a little set up that allows me to use my electric screw driver to turn the height adjustment knob of the router. Works well and makes me feel high tech... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Egon]

Nice setup Henro. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon

 

[dummy]

That looks great. Nice outfeed table. How about some close-ups of the height adjustment stuff? What's even more surprising, not one Kubota orange item to be seen anywhere /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[dummy]

Actually Egon, I am still amazed how much nice stuff you create.

 

[ejb]

OK everybody, I appreciate all the comments. I guess I was naive and assumed I was the first one to think up a table/saw router table combo...sounds like there are a lot of ready to buy attachments that serve this purpose...before I drill a big hole into my table saw I guess I better check out what already exists.

-EJB

 

[Glenn9643]

One thing that's always handy with a tablesaw or cabinet saw is an outfeed table. I had an old double pedastal desk with a good flat top and put my router in the center. Removed the center drawer. I removed the legs from the desk and built a frame from oak lumber to mount it to so the tabletop height matched my cabinet saw table height when on casters. I can move it around the shop as needed, and it works great either as a router table or outfeed table. The formica top surface also is great as an additional glue up table.

 

[em14]

Just so you can see one that is on the market go to this site: www.benchdog.com
Leo

 

[DannyD]

http://www.skilxshop.com/

this thing is what you need, unless you want to build it yourself

skilshop x series they call it.

saw it on i want that, tv show, hgtv.

 

[gizmo]

This may not help, but I just had to show it. This is my setup. It is a PC 3 1/4 HP router mounted in a cast iron extension wing router table with an Incra router fence. There are a number of woodworking suppliers that sell router inserts for home made tables that will fit with the PC router. All you would need to do is cut/route out the recess for the router and insert. Try looking on Woodcraft's website as a starter.