T2420 FRONT WHEEL STUDS?

SKIPSTER · Mar 5, 2009

Hey out there,
I'm wondering if anybody is having trouble keeping the front wheel studs tight? I've had mine loosen a few times, this time I lost some and the others broke and the wheel came off. I only have 230 hours on it. New Holland says I need to check them more often ?? Not buying that answer....

RickB · Mar 5, 2009

The first time they ran loose the holes in the rim probably got damaged. If so, your rim is junk. Replace the rim and lug bolts and torque the bolts to the proper value, then retorque them as your operator's manual should specify.

stuartshomepc · Mar 5, 2009

SKIPSTER said:
Hey out there,
I'm wondering if anybody is having trouble keeping the front wheel studs tight? I've had mine loosen a few times, this time I lost some and the others broke and the wheel came off. I only have 230 hours on it. New Holland says I need to check them more often ?? Not buying that answer....

If they are studs or even bolts there should have been some sort lock-tite thread locker compound on them. They make blue (serviceable and for up to about 3/8" bolts/studs) and then the red which is usually for studs/bolts that you don't want coming loose.

Read this
Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail

Once a bolt/stud that had thread locker on it and they are loosened (by service or vibration) you need to clean the threads and put more thread locker on it and then re-assemble and let dry.

I don't use the red very often as it really is tough to break loose. I know that it's a wheel you really don't want it coming off but I would try the blue first, especially if they are bolts on the wheels. It they are studs going into hubs, with wheel nuts holding the wheel on you should use the red in the stud/ hub threaded area. You can buy this stuff at any auto store (Murry's, NAPA, pep-boys, auto zone and the like).

I noticed that the bolts that hold the wheels of my 1620 on were coated with a blue thread locker compound. So I added more when I put them back on. It's usually there for a reason.

Stuart

stuartshomepc · Mar 5, 2009

One more thing.

RickB is also correct about damage to the rim. If the wheel nuts/bolts holding the wheel on have a tapered area on the nut/bolt and rim, and that area of the rim is elongated you have a problem. I had that happen on my boat trailer. Once the hole turns into an elongated/oval shape normal rotating forced will rock the wheel around and loosen the nuts/bolts.

No matter how tight I made them, or how much threadlocker I used, there was no fix other then a new rim.

Stuart

SKIPSTER · Mar 6, 2009

Thanks for the input, the rim has been replaced once already and RED loctite applied. My thoughts now are that possibly the thread holes in the hub are spoiled now. I just think that I shouldn't have to check the lug torque every 15 to 20 hours. I agree that they should be checked, but this often seems over kill. I never had any issuses with my TC.

stuartshomepc · Mar 7, 2009

SKIPSTER said:
Thanks for the input, the rim has been replaced once already and RED loctite applied. My thoughts now are that possibly the thread holes in the hub are spoiled now. I just think that I shouldn't have to check the lug torque every 15 to 20 hours. I agree that they should be checked, but this often seems over kill. I never had any issuses with my TC.

Wow, that is a perplexing problem.

If the threads in the hubs are buggered up you may want to look at helicoiling them. Unless the hubs don't cost too much.

jglandscaping · Mar 12, 2009

I thought I was the only one with this problem.
I have the exact hours you do, the tractor has seem only minor loader work, power raking and a few hours of brush hogging, mostly snow work as of now.
First time, rear studs backed out plowing and almost lost the back wheel.
Second time the front studs back out going down the road and ALMOST lost the wheel but stopped in time.
Third time I was stacking snow and I lost all the studs and the last two in broke off.
It has been to the dealer 3 times for this problem (new hubs installed and bolts lock tighted) and 2 for problems with the loader (pins keep spinning).
The bolts are torque to 95ft lbs per New Hollands specs because the bolts were breaking when torque above this.
New Holland told my dealer to go higher, they torque them to 250ft lbs without breaking.
My question now is that are the bolts cracked and we don't know?
I have not taken possession of the tractor again as it is waiting for a new hub but am getting quite fed up that this keeps happening, I would really like to see New Holland buy this tractor back as it would be catastrophic if I were going down a hill (we road tractors in my area instead of trailering) doing 20mph and the wheel completely came off....

James

Sir knight · Mar 15, 2009

Hi I bought a new Holland 2410 last year and it had so many problems it went to the dealer 13 times between the hydraulic problems and the transmission.And lots of sounds in the cab. the worst pile of crap i have ever bought.so good luck you will need it.I traded the blue pile of crap in on a 7040 kubota and its like the difference between a pinto and a mustang.So i hope you have better luck.

CJ4 · Mar 16, 2009

My TC55DA last summer had lug nuts loosen off also. I was carrying a load of dirt in the front end loader and BOOM!!!! The left front went down....I thought I broke the fricking front axle in half! Found out the lug bolts must have gotten loose with no warning. My wheel was fine, I had to get new bolts and I ran a tap thru some of the threads on the hub to make sure they were ok. I check them now every 50 hrs or so and haven't had any more problems.

jimmysisson · Mar 16, 2009

My older 2120 calls for I think 137-152# torque, and it feels about right. Mine don't have the taper but I think if they were loose they'd still self-destruct pretty quickly. There's a lot of stress on those few bolts.
Jim