t joint weld prep

[swick1]

I'm getting ready to weld up my backhoe ripper with an old AC buzzbox. The shank is 1" and the top plate that attaches it to the ears is 1/2".

I am trying to figure out how big to make my bevels in the 1" shank for the t joint. I looked online and saw 1/4" as a recommended bead size. You can see pictures of it here:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/220577-john-deere-260-backhoe-ripper.html

Do you have any suggestions for the amps setting on the welder? It's 220VAC.

 

[LD1]

You are going to want WAY more than a 1/4" bead when done:confused2:

I would bevel the 1" peice about 3/8's on EACH side. This will leave you with only about 1/4" in the middle.

Then (as others will reccomend here) burn in a root pass with 6011 and then all subsequent passes with 7018 untill you have a nice looking fillet.

But it sounds like you are a newbie welder and those two rods can be a pain to run, especially if you dont have a good DC welder.

I personally wouldnt have any problems beveling like I mentioned and doing the whole thing with some 7014 on about 180A. I would be confident that It wouldnt break if I were doing it that way.

 

[swick1]

I will go ahead with your suggestion. Ill post pics of the root pass for your review.

 

[LD1]

I am suprised others havent jumped in here. I have welded a LOT of things over the years. And I consider myself to be a good welder. But I am by no means a professional.

And honestly, I dont think I have ever did the method I mentioned. (6011 root/7018cap). I only stated that because it seems that is what everyone says most of the time:confused2:

You can do what you want. But if you arent a newbie to welding, just do what you are most comfortable with. Because it doesnt matter what rod or method you use, a good weld trumps a poor one. So if you havent ever welded with 6011/7018, your first go at it probabally isnt going to be the best. In which case, I would say a rod you are familiar with would be stronger, or just practice with the 6011/7018 until you feel comfortable enough to tackle your project.

 

[yomax4]

I am guessing that the 1/4" is the bevel and not the bead size.. I would always suggest beveling 50% of the thickness and at 1" I would say to use a 5/32 at minumum rod for the root. Burn what you want but 1" material demands a hot rod.

 

[Shield Arc]

If you really want it to hold the first time, bevel the 1-inch plate at least 37-degrees, if not 45-degrees. And put enough weld to have 1/2-inch reenforcement outside of the plate on each side.
When not working off blueprints I go with my gut and make a decision on what the item is going to be used for. If the item is not really going to be stressed then I cut the bevels, and weld the amount accordingly. You can over weld things at times.

 

[JB4310]

What size back hoe? a single 1 inch ripper is really gonna be put to the test.

Non critical application though so don't worry to much, 7024 is an easy to use rod and works well with ac, work has to be horizontal which is doable, just not sure how it would work inside that bevel and 90???

JB.

 

[swick1]

I got a new tombstone welder and it still wants to stick bad with bigger rod. Its on a 30 amp breaker. Is this the problem?

 

[JB4310]

I got a new tombstone welder and it still wants to stick bad with bigger rod. Its on a 30 amp breaker. Is this the problem?

Possibly, if the wire is only 10 ga. might not be getting enough juice to the welder. The breaker itself wouldn't matter to much as long as it was not tripping.

There has been some discussion on what input amps these cracker boxes really need, so if your breaker is not tripping and your sticking rod to the work, try cranking up the amps more for now. If the rod stops sticking as much, but then you start tripping the breaker, you'll know you need more input amps.

What rod and how many amps are you using now?

JB.

 

[Shield Arc]

I got a new tombstone welder and it still wants to stick bad with bigger rod. Its on a 30 amp breaker. Is this the problem?

I suggest you pick up some Hobart 335-A 6011. It must have some arc stabilizer in the flux, this rod is child's play compared to other rods I've run. Amp for Amp it's the best penetrating 60 series rod I've run too. Next would be ESAB's Sureweld 10P-Plus 6010, but you can't run 6010 on your machine.