switching to synthetic
- Thread starter rayc45
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WH401
Platinum Member
Depends on how you've run/used your tractor. If you've used your tractor at PTO speed most of the time, working the engine, than the earliest I would change over would be 100 hrs. If you putt around all the time at a lower RPM never putting a real load on the engine, than I would wait longer, a couple of hundred hours at the least. If your at 50 hrs now then I would change out the break-in oil that came from the factory, and replace it with a regular dino 15w-40. Then after that base your next change on how you've used your tractor through that oil run.
WilliamBos
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,276
- Location
- Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- MF 1635 12x12 Powershuttle
We switched our over @ 110 hours. The 50 hour service was free, so that is why we waited. Do us a favour, and fill out your location. It will help us help you. Example, if you live in the cold north, running 15w40 is not a good idea.
JMHO.
20 20
Elite Member
This was/is my concern switching..... then the question why.....?
If the tractor is being broke in on dino oil because synthetic won't cut it, or may void warrenty, then how good is synthetic? So next question, dino is good enough for the tough work why not stay with it? break in on ANY engine is the toughest and most important time. Is synthetic so great, maybe, not sure??? My concern is if dino can handle the break in, but synthetic can't why switch at all?
I'm not knocking synthetic, but ya'll have to admit dino has proven itself over YEARS of service.
If the tractor is being broke in on dino oil because synthetic won't cut it, or may void warrenty, then how good is synthetic? So next question, dino is good enough for the tough work why not stay with it? break in on ANY engine is the toughest and most important time. Is synthetic so great, maybe, not sure??? My concern is if dino can handle the break in, but synthetic can't why switch at all?
I'm not knocking synthetic, but ya'll have to admit dino has proven itself over YEARS of service.
jaquetarr
Silver Member
Its my understanding that the engine must wear in and seat itself with mineral oil. If Synthetic is introduced too early the engine rings and bearings will not set.
So the recommendation on autos I was given was to wait until 25-30k miles before switching to synethic.
The reasons for switching are to use an oil with higher heat tolerance and a more even molecular size for better bearing wear and longer life.
Note that all synethics are not the same. Since they are made from different base stocks, the end product will have different characteristics. I dis-remember the differences, perhaps someone with a better memory can assist, but Amsoil will be different from Mobil-1 and so forth. Also be aware that what may appear to be a synethic from the label may be a blended oil.
I put synethic in my F-250 Auto trans to better cope with the heat. At 107 deg summer air temp, the running temp will be so much higher.
Rgds,
tim
So the recommendation on autos I was given was to wait until 25-30k miles before switching to synethic.
The reasons for switching are to use an oil with higher heat tolerance and a more even molecular size for better bearing wear and longer life.
Note that all synethics are not the same. Since they are made from different base stocks, the end product will have different characteristics. I dis-remember the differences, perhaps someone with a better memory can assist, but Amsoil will be different from Mobil-1 and so forth. Also be aware that what may appear to be a synethic from the label may be a blended oil.
I put synethic in my F-250 Auto trans to better cope with the heat. At 107 deg summer air temp, the running temp will be so much higher.
Rgds,
tim
WilliamBos
Super Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,276
- Location
- Innisfil, Ontario, Canada
- Tractor
- MF 1635 12x12 Powershuttle
For me, the dino will never compare. The cold pour point is what did it for me. Starting up at -50, I cringe thinking of that on dino. If we had of bought new, I would have switched alot sooner, but it was bought with 63 hours, so did not need a change until 112 hours.
I will NEVER go back to dino.
I will NEVER go back to dino.
20 20
Elite Member
You cringe on starting an engine on -50{ I take it that's F not C} but what did those folks do way back when? I start my engines at minus-10-20-30 and they're like a timex... they just keep on ticking. Oops maybe I should have used the bunny
maybe he's running on synthetic??? No matter what we think of todays tech, years of proven service can NOT be just thrown to the wind. I'm not knocking synthetic just wonder why all of a sudden dino is junk?20 20
Elite Member
this is my point{not saying it's bad} but...... if it's great then why not just use it all the way through the life of the engine? Have yet to here engine engineers say DON"T use dino oil, should make ya think?
So the dino is good to use for the 1st{most important part of an engines life} 25-30, but then switch?
okay, that is the reason for oil changes, so far all this equals is fewer oil changes, this is still a good thing.
BAM..............BANG
so this one worked great but this one may be------------- who knows. We are lead to believe such and such a product is awsome but at the same time we can't get postive spec's hmmmmm? Once again not knocking the product but still distrust that horse dung taste like fruit pie
Did you change because.......... or did you change because something went wrong with regular dino oil?
20 20
Elite Member
PLEASE, remember I'm not bashing synthetic just have yet to see the miracle, except time between oil Changes., ON A BROKE IN ENGINE.
Looks like oil is oil and engines need it clean and ready to lubricate. kind of like a tire needs air{ not just at the top}. From what I can see/tell maintanence is # 1 most important, top of the line, for engine survival.
Looks like oil is oil and engines need it clean and ready to lubricate. kind of like a tire needs air{ not just at the top}. From what I can see/tell maintanence is # 1 most important, top of the line, for engine survival.