Surge brake actuator

[JJZ 109]

I have a surge brake coupler on a JLG T-350 tow behind boom lift that looks very similar to this:
The lift is being used by one of my guys, so I can't scoot outside to look for a brand name or model number at the moment.

This thing has been nothing but trouble since I bought the lift a couple of years ago. No matter where we position the knob when backing, the coupler wants to roll under, then it becomes a real bear to unhook. Have to pull the truck forward with the lift's hand brake set, use pry bars, etc. The knurled knob above the sliding bolt is now busted off.
I'm looking to replace this coupler with something that's easier to work with and still have a functional surge brake. The unit weighs in at about #3400 so I want some semblance of brakes on the thing. In the preliminary stages of looking into something like this one.
Any of you old trailer towing pros have any suggestions for an actuator that's easier to work with than my current setup? I'm done using the lift for the season, so I've got all winter to come up with something more agreeable to work with.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have towed well over 100 boat trailers with that very coupler and never really had any troubles. I think the major issue is you do not have a reverse lock out solenoid. Its a simple $25 device that mounts directly to the master cylinder output then the brake line mounts to it. It has two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to your center pin of your 7 pin round connector. That is your reverse lights. This way when you put the tow vehicle in reverse it activates and blocks the flow of hydraulic pressure.

Replacement Solenoid Valve for Titan Brake Actuators with Reverse Lockouts Titan Accessories and Parts T4748800

Chris

 

[JJZ 109]

I have towed well over 100 boat trailers with that very coupler and never really had any troubles. I think the major issue is you do not have a reverse lock out solenoid. Its a simple $25 device that mounts directly to the master cylinder output then the brake line mounts to it. It has two wires. One goes to ground and the other goes to your center pin of your 7 pin round connector. That is your reverse lights. This way when you put the tow vehicle in reverse it activates and blocks the flow of hydraulic pressure.

Replacement Solenoid Valve for Titan Brake Actuators with Reverse Lockouts Titan Accessories and Parts T4748800


Chris

Was hoping you'd jump in here, Chris. Didn't seem to matter whether I placed that knurled knob into the "back up" position or not before backing up. I really got to dislike that thing. Now that the knob is broken off, I need to figure out what to do next. I bookmarked your link for the next time that I see my lift. Maybe even with the busted knob I can use that solenoid valve. Probably easier (and definitely cheaper) than replacing the coupler.
One thing I didn't mention: There's only a 4 pin harness on the lift. Now what?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Was hoping you'd jump in here, Chris. Didn't seem to matter whether I placed that knurled knob into the "back up" position or not before backing up. I really got to dislike that thing. Now that the knob is broken off, I need to figure out what to do next. I bookmarked your link for the next time that I see my lift. Maybe even with the busted knob I can use that solenoid valve. Probably easier (and definitely cheaper) than replacing the coupler.
One thing I didn't mention: There's only a 4 pin harness on the lift. Now what?

Add the valve, bleed the system, and remove the 4 pin for a 7 round. I could do it all in about a hour if you were close.

Chris

 

[whistlepig]

I am not a big fan of surge brakes.

 

[JJZ 109]

I am not a big fan of surge brakes.

Me either, but that's what came on this tow behind lift. If I towed it every day, maybe I'd think about some real brakes. But it doesn't go out to every job so I don't see taking the time or expense.
Looks like I'll probably take Chris's advice and add the valve & switch the plug from 4 pin to 7 to make the valve useable. But of course that'll most likely wait until spring arrives. :windy::snowflake:

 

[Renze]

Funny system you guys have in North America. Surge brakes is quite the standard in Europe, most axles are equipped with one way brakes, when reversing the leading shoe turns inward so it doesnt brake when backing up. These are 99% bowdencable operated brakes. Those are trouble free as long as you replace the bowdencables every couple of years.
I guess because surge brakes arent very common in the USA, there arent any axles available with backmatic brakes.

 

[Zick]

I have a surge brake coupler on a JLG T-350 tow behind boom lift that looks very similar to this: View attachment 290046
The lift is being used by one of my guys, so I can't scoot outside to look for a brand name or model number at the moment.

This thing has been nothing but trouble since I bought the lift a couple of years ago. No matter where we position the knob when backing, the coupler wants to roll under, then it becomes a real bear to unhook. Have to pull the truck forward with the lift's hand brake set, use pry bars, etc. The knurled knob above the sliding bolt is now busted off.
I'm looking to replace this coupler with something that's easier to work with and still have a functional surge brake. The unit weighs in at about #3400 so I want some semblance of brakes on the thing. In the preliminary stages of looking into something like this one.
Any of you old trailer towing pros have any suggestions for an actuator that's easier to work with than my current setup? I'm done using the lift for the season, so I've got all winter to come up with something more agreeable to work with.

Oh, please let me know what you end up with if you decide to replace this unit. I have the exact same one in the picture on our boat trailer and need to find a replacement because the brake reservoir is full of rust!

 

[schmism]

Brake Actuator Coupler Trailer Coupler | etrailer.com

there seem to be plenty of other types out there to go with in terms of replacements.

 

[Reg]

First thin to know is whether the brakes are drums or discs.
May sound obscure, but discs require significantly higher pressure.
1500 or 1600 psi for discs, 1000 to 1200 for some drums.
Next is the tongue size, primarily the width.
and of course the weight.

Then go shopping at etrailer.com