Super Mongo Heavy Rotary Cutter....or just a medium one?

[WoodChuckDad]

I need a rotary cutter. I finally have managed to grow a mixture of fescue, rye, clover, buckwheat and rape in my orchard and in another field that we are trying to get ready for planting. I had to cut all the flowering plants down in the orchard, so I could spray for beetles. (don't want to kill off the bees). All I had to work with was a wheeled string trimmer and a residential walk behind mower. I also had to mow the **** next to my pond. all in all it was more than 6 hours and it was bloody hot. A rotary mower could have done this in an hour, not counting hookup. And I would have been in Air conditioning. It's time to spend the money and get a cutter. But my problem is how heavy do I go. I have about 25 acres that were clear cut 2 years ago. Mother nature is trying to make a comeback on a fair amount of it. I will use the cutter on fields and in the orchard. I am leaning toward a 7 foot 3 point mower. I have lots of stuff growing all over mystery property (55 acres total), but because it was clear cut there is a lot of stuff with stumps so I will most likey go thru with the excavator popping stumps on the rest of the property first, before it ever sees a mower. So do I need the monster heavyweight cutter that can cut 3 or 4 inch material, or will a medium cutter that can handle 2 inch material do me just fine? I have looked at the woods BB84x (2 inch material) and the BB840X (3 inch material). There are a few others out there that go even heavier, according to their spec sheets. The difference is 2500 vs 4500ish. If I am never going to use that extra oomph from my�� 73 ?HP tractor (63 pto) then I would rather keep the money and use it on something else.

edit for clarity--Apparently I was not clear about my situation. I have about 30 acres clear cut. Then had bulldozer push most debris into windrows. Some stumps came up when dozing was done. I have a 30,000 lb excavator and I have been pulling stumps to clear areas that we want to plant apple trees in. Currently we have planted 500 trees and I anticipate a few thousand more over the years. I would not try to run the rotary cutter over areas that still have stumps, and I would get all the slash up before running across any of it as well. Even after you pull stumps lots of stuff tries to grow back. So you get thistle and briars and thorns and volunteer trees that pop up from root systems that havn't been completely removed. What I'm wondering is if something like a Woods BB84x would be sufficient for my needs or if I will be sorry that I didn't go heavier. IT is rated to handle 2 inch material. I would mostly be using it to mow over fields that have grass or upto 2 foot tall green manure type or nitrogen fixing type plants that we are using to condition the soil l. There are times that the forest starts growing back right beneath. you when you leave a field to nature for a while.
I agree that a twinn rotar setup would be more maneuverable but also less powerful from what I read. And it would be almost double the price.

 

[leonz]

You are getting too far ahead of things here. Any rotary cutter that tries to clear that thickness of material is going to turn to scrap metal really fast and your going to end up with a radiator with a hole in it or under frame damage.

You either have to hire a forestry mulcher or buy one that will work with your current mule or rent power for the smallest forestry
with that power class.

If you buy one you can take your time clearing one lane at a time grinding the stumps below ground level while backing up and avoiding any damage to your mule or the rented mule.

You should check with the folks at Iowa Farm Equipment for forestry mulchers or call the Northern Logger Magazine and ask or a couple of back issues as you will be able to glean a huge amount of information for what you need and names of wood cutters that also clear land.

You need a forestry mulcher not a rotary cutter that will protect your tractor and you and alos be able to grind the ALL the stumps down below the ground.

 

[oosik]

leonz has the right idea - IMHO. Trying to clear that much heavy undergrowth - even with a heavy duty rotary cutter will end up damaging your tractor and beating the crap out of your new cutter.

Trying to do a commercial job with homeowner equipment is just a loosing situation.

 

[Fallon]

A 7' mower is a ******* size. They get really really long & heavy spinning one blade. An 8' dual spindle is much shorter & generally uses less HP.

As others said, dont kill your tractor. You need some pretty decent skidplates & grill guards to not tear the guts out of your machine with 3-4" material. **** I need much better guards than I have on my machine for the 1-2" brush I do a fair bit,

 

[NoTrespassing]

I think it depends on how often you knock stuff down. I only mow my "pastures" every couple of years now. Some years I go out and knock down the junk trees by backing over them with the old cheapo king kutter. I try not to let them get much over 1 1/2 inches and they're all pretty soft. It's been working for over 15 years that way. I just make sure there's gear oil in it and replace a shear pin every so often.

Kevin

 

[CADplans]

Keep your mowing to stuff under 1 1/2",, and get a flail mower,,

I was SO happy the day my rotary mower left,, I was tired of dealing with the clumps.

I had a JD 6.5 foot rotary, it would not cut anything larger than this flail,,
well,, it would cut larger, but, both the mower and tractor sounded like they were coming apart,,, :laughing:

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Apparently I was not clear about my situation. I have about 30 acres clear cut. Then had bulldozer push most debris into windrows. Some stumps came up when dozing was done. I have a 30,000 lb excavator and I have been pulling stumps to clear areas that we want to plant apple trees in. Currently we have planted 500 trees and I anticipate a few thousand more over the years. I would not try to run the rotary cutter over areas that still have stumps, and I would get all the slash up before running across any of it as well. Even after you pull stumps lots of stuff tries to grow back. So you get thistle and briars and thorns and volunteer trees that pop up from root systems that havn't been completely removed. What I'm wondering is if something like a Woods BB84x would be sufficient for my needs or if I will be sorry that I didn't go heavier. IT is rated to handle 2 inch material. I would mostly be using it to mow over fields that have grass or upto 2 foot tall green manure type or nitrogen fixing type plants that we are using to condition the soil l. There are times that the forest starts growing back right beneath. you when you leave a field to nature for a while.
I agree that a twinn rotar setup would be more maneuverable but also less powerful from what I read. And it would be almost double the price.

 

[boomer1025]

Apparently I was not clear about my situation. I have about 30 acres clear cut. Then had bulldozer push most debris into windrows. Some stumps came up when dozing was done. I have a 30,000 lb excavator and I have been pulling stumps to clear areas that we want to plant apple trees in. Currently we have planted 500 trees and I anticipate a few thousand more over the years. I would not try to run the rotary cutter over areas that still have stumps, and I would get all the slash up before running across any of it as well. Even after you pull stumps lots of stuff tries to grow back. So you get thistle and briars and thorns and volunteer trees that pop up from root systems that havn't been completely removed. What I'm wondering is if something like a Woods BB84x would be sufficient for my needs or if I will be sorry that I didn't go heavier. IT is rated to handle 2 inch material. I would mostly be using it to mow over fields that have grass or upto 2 foot tall green manure type or nitrogen fixing type plants that we are using to condition the soil l. There are times that the forest starts growing back right beneath. you when you leave a field to nature for a while.
I agree that a twinn rotar setup would be more maneuverable but also less powerful from what I read. And it would be almost double the price.

Get The BB84x and keep stuff mowed.

 

[leonz]

Hello WoodChuckDad,

thank you for adding more information about your reclaimed area.
I am wondering if you would benefit more from a small boom mounted forestry shredder which will be of more benefit for your use as you still have regrowth of softwood weed trees?
The same rules of operation apply but with the lower boom fully extended you can clear a wide arc of material to the ground and when stumpage is encountered you would be able shred it below ground level.

A rotary cutter and the mule will suffer a lot of shock damage when clearing wood brush close to the ground where as the boom mounted forestry mulcher will not suffer impact damage due to the design of the attachments frame and mulching head.

The forestry mulcher mounted on the excavator boom would allow you to do a lot of work on smaller areas making sure there are few if any softwood weed tree stumps left to grow back that a tractor mounted orchard and vineyard flail mower with cast hammers could not handle as long as the area is mowed on a regular basis to continue destroying the weed tree seedlings and the potential for them to grow back.

I am not trying to spend your money, I am an outsider looking in.

 

[Texasmark]

I got lost in your huge paragraphs....made for difficult reading.

On what to get I buy per the gearbox rating for driving hp....since I tore one out once on a terrace......with a properly functioning shear bolt. On tearing up the deck, fat chance, saw some cracked but they were maybe 40 years old and a welding rod and piece of scrap steel solved the problem there. I like self locking nuts on any hardware....lift pins excepted if 3 pt....with lock washer, fine thread, and adequate torque they pretty much stay put.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Now you guys have me considering a flail mower. I had not previously thought of it and know almost nothing about them. A quick look on craigslist shows only two old ford units in my area. A few threads on TBN talk about several different brands. From land pride to Del Morino to Bestco.
I like the lower likelihood of throwing things out and they look like they would be more maneuverable in the orchard and leave a finely chopped grass that decays quicker. I also wouldn’t be too worried about my wife running it as opposed to the rotary mower.

 

[rustyshakelford]

A 7' mower is a ******* size. They get really really long & heavy spinning one blade. An 8' dual spindle is much shorter & generally uses less HP.

As others said, dont kill your tractor. You need some pretty decent skidplates & grill guards to not tear the guts out of your machine with 3-4" material. **** I need much better guards than I have on my machine for the 1-2" brush I do a fair bit,

Yup. I hated our 7’ and like the 8’

Brett

 

[Silvic]

I would not go with the Woods BB-84 model if you want that size. Go with the BB-840. Do not under tough it.
I have the BB-720 (fore-runner to the 720X) and would not hesitate to use it for the purposes you describe. ( and I have ) The narrow model may take a bit longer but the maneuverability is a positive trade-off.
A flail is not a bad idea either.
By the way I do forestry mulching and I use a Fecon mulching head for that purpose. I use it where it is appropriate and I use my Woods BB720 where appropriate.
Each has their purpose just as a flail has its purpose.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I am liking the idea of the flail mower. The question then becomes what kind fo flail blades. there seem to be grass blades and mulching chipper type blades. I'm not trying to get a golf course cut. Mostly just knocking things down in the orchard.and eventually cutting some grass around the house....and sometimes some brush but I doubt I would cut anything over an inch on a regular basis. And if I decide later that I still need a rotary, I could go a little smaller. There seem to be a good supply of used 6 and 5 foot rotary cutter around here.

 

[otus_branch]

Hi WoodChuckDad,

I'm in a similar boat as you with respect to the "considering flail mowers" stage. I'm researching 6' models for my Kubota, but the maneuverability (relative to an equivalent-sized rotary cutter) gets even better when you go up to seven feet.

Two threads very worth a look are the monster flail mower discussion:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/118882-lets-talk-flail-mowers.html

And this one comparing two budget options:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/377434-caroni-tm1900-flail-mower-vs.html

In that latter thread, a six-footer is the largest Caroni model sold by Agri-Supply, while Woodmaxx imports models up to eight feet I think. Other options in a seven foot class would include Betstco, here:
Betstco Tractor Implements

and Del Morino, here:
Tractor Tools Direct | Product Categories | Flail Mowers

I'm sure there are other options, but that's what my searching and budget have turned up.

Regarding blades, the Woodmaxx sales rep felt confident that spring steel Y-blades are the best option for rocky ground and brush up to 1" diameter. That's just one guy's opinion, but others here have posted similar experiences in some of the above threads.

Good luck!

-otus

 

[Fallon]

My old beat up Ford 917 with the lighter Y blades did great on grass & finger sized brush. It would do up to 1" or so ok. Bigger than that the knives were to light do do much beyond gnaw off the bark. My new Peruzzo with several pound hammers will chew up whatever I can drive over & have the HP for. I can eat wrist size woody stuff if I offset the flail so I dont drive over it before the flail gets to it.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Well, i like to examine my options. There is a 7.5 foot ford on craigslist. Guys buys and sells so he has never run it. Price is decent. Would my 7320 kioti be too strong for it? 63 hp pto. I was thinknit ng that it might do the trick to keep the orchard and **** tidy for a yearnor two and then i could upgrade. If i bought the ford, id keep it out of brush and just use it for grass and cover crops.

 

[leonz]

Hello WoodChuckDad,

The main thing to remember is that you leave the engine speed of your mule at the 540 RPM PTO Speed "AT ALL TIMES" when mowing and if it gets over loaded the V belts will break.

I would not buy it UNLESS he can run it in front of you or you pay a farm equipment mechanic for an hours time and buy his dinner for his opinion that is intimately familiar with flail mowers and or flail shredders.

If you have a big shop, tools and a welder and perhaps an A frame hoist to do any work it may be a worthwhile a winter project

If he has a picture of it that he or you can upload all the better for us AND YOU.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Thank you Leonz. I will let it pass. I don't have a barn yet, and I don't have the time for big projects. I'm wading thru the big flail mower thread trying to learn what I can. I have a couple models on my mind. Both are Italian. Over time, that may change. Currently considering the Phoenix TE-220 and the Del Marino TL 84

 

[otus_branch]

My old beat up Ford 917 with the lighter Y blades did great on grass & finger sized brush. It would do up to 1" or so ok. Bigger than that the knives were to light do do much beyond gnaw off the bark. My new Peruzzo with several pound hammers will chew up whatever I can drive over & have the HP for. I can eat wrist size woody stuff if I offset the flail so I dont drive over it before the flail gets to it.

Helpful information, thanks!