Suggestions for ROPS lights

[ToolDad]

I just completed adding lights to my BX2200 last weekend based on Av8r2230's light project. I have not posted pictures yet, but it looks pretty much like Av8r2230's. I installed two forward facing and one rear facing light. Works great. Now I can work all night!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (the wife loves that...not)

Av8r2230 - What brand of RTV did you use? All I could find was Permatex 599R Ultra Gray. It is significantly lighter than the ROPS gray, where yours appeared to be a very close match.

 

[Av8r3400]

Believe it or not, it was just cheap "black" RTV. I don't think it was Permatex brand, it has since gone solid and been thrown away. (Sorry)

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Lockport]

I had a machine shop make me a couple 'plates' with holes drilled to secure the lights to them and then I cold welded those to the ROPS. I mounted a waterproof junction box to the forward side of the SMV and added two lighted toggles. Secured the wires with plastic flex conduit and black ties running the length of the ROPs. Powered one pair from under the seat and, haven't completed the wiring yet, but will run a hot from the starter to the spares fuses and back to the junction box for the other pair. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Speedy7]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Under the seat there are two blank "pigtails" which are ignition-on 12 volt leads. )</font>

I found the two pigtails, but was wondering how much current they could carry. They are wired to the ignition switch, so could they carry 110/12 = 9.2 amps for two 55W halogens? That would save some wiring to the battery. Also, they are probably not fused either. How many amps are you guys drawing from this connection?

 

[Av8r3400]

They are fused.

I am running 2 35 watt lights and have not had any problems. Your 55 watt lights should be fine. I believe these outlets are for oem lights and cab hookups.

 

[Speedy7]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( They are fused. )</font>

Which fuse would that be? In the manual it lists the fuses as:

20A - Working Light
15A - Accessories
15A - Hazard Lamp
15A - Solenoid
20A - Spare
15A - Spare

The headlights are listed with Accessories, so does that mean that the 20A Working light fuse goes to that pigtail?

 

[Av8r3400]

I don't remember which, but I think it's the working light fuse.

Best to pull each and check with a meter if you have a concern. Like I said before, it has ran my 2 35w lights without an issue.

 

[Lockport]

The pigtails beneath the seat are fused to the 20A work light. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( They also have a switch on them which is nice since *the spare wiring for external lights is hot when the key is on rather than with the light switch. I thought that a bit odd. )</font>
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* Not odd at all since the added lights should be connected through the ignition on stitch rather than to a wire that's hot at all times.

 

[tractorwheel]

sweeeeeeeeeeeeet! I am going to tractor supply tomorrow for lights. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Speedy7]

Ok, I think I've found the perfect (at least for me) solution for mounting the ROPS lights. Initially, I tried to order the 2" magnetic welding ground from Harbour Freight, but they were all out. So I went looking for other magnetic mounts and found these Mighty Mag mounts. I think they are designed for aligment on jigs or something, but they work out great for lights. They have two thumbscrew holes in which you can directly place the light fixture bolt into and secure in place (pic attached). You could also use it to mount a light bar if you prefer.

The magnetic mount makes them easy to put on and remove, plus you can face them forward or backwards as required. I wired a 12V outlet to the pigtail under the seat, and have a 12V plug on the lights. So it's completely removeable, and meets my needs for an occasional work light. I may eventually wire in a switch, but at this point, it works for me.

SP

 

[TimP]

Speedy7,

Where did you buy the Magnets from? Cost? Which model tractor do you have?

I have a B2150, and from what I've read in the past, a lot of people use magnet mounts of some sort and have been happy with them.

Tim

 

[Speedy7]

I bought them off eBay, about $15 each shipped. Bit steeper than I wanted to pay. The 2" welding ground magnets were only $4 each minus shipping. But they were out of stock and I couldn't wait.

I have a BX 23, but they should work on any tractor's ROPS

 

[ToolDad]

I used Av8r2230's post for my project guidelines.Work Lights

I used round Speaker brand 35Watt lights with built in switches ($26ea). Mounted two forward and one rear facing. Used a 30A auto relay to tie into the headlight switch, yet I have the option of selecting individually which lights burn.

Some of the wiring was not as neat as I would have liked, but in the short run I was unable to loacte the appropriate multi-pin connectors, so everywhere I spliced in, I created a Y-connection which added to the bulk. They make splice connectors, but they are not weather protective. I used insulated connectors and heat shrink tubing at every joint.

All in all though, it is relatively neat. I am attaching some photos (may require multiple posts). Take a look and see what you think.

Regarding tapping into the ROPS, I am a mechanical enginneer (20+ yrs) and agree that it will not negatively impact the structural integrity or safety.

 

[ToolDad]

Close up frontal shot.

 

[ToolDad]

Rear view - bracket and wiring.

 

[ToolDad]

Lower wire feed.

 

[Av8r3400]

**Gasp**

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Speedy7]

And here's how they look on the ROPS. I'm considering turning them 90 degrees, then each magnet could hold two lights, one forward and one back.

 

[ToolDad]

And under the seat. Really could have used a multi-pin connector here. Oh well.