Suggested rpm痴 and regen

[Alan57]

I am learning the ropes with my new MT345e, mostly with running a scraper blade and a box blade working on a gravel driveway, some of it flat and some of it on a hill. During the first 6 hours I would operate at 1500-1600 rpm. The next weekend I operated at 1800-2000 rpm. It was during the 2nd weekend that at 14.6 hours the tractor went into regen. This lasted for about 15 minutes or so and I continued working while it was happening. There was a slight increase in the rpm but other that that the only noticeable thing was the smell generated by it. This seems kinda soon for a regen so I am wondering if it has to do with the rpm I have been running or is there something else I should be concerned about. Yes I am new to the tractor world but enjoying every minute of it.

 

[jaydee325]

What RPM does the manual say to operate at?

My opinion is the earlier than anticipated regen occurred due to the operation at the low 1500-1600 RPM causing excess soot to collect on the DPF. Even 1800-2000 RPM seems low to me from what I've read. You want to keep the RPMs up to keep heat in the DPF.

 

[Alan57]

The manual only discusses rpm when using the pto which is 2490. The salesman at the dealership said if I wasn’t running the pto I would run 1500 rpm for most chores. But after reading several forums and watching a few YouTube videos it appeared the majority of owners run well above 1500 which is why I started running in the 1800-2000 range. What you say makes a lot of sense.
Thanks

 

[RSR]

My first regen on an XR4145 went off at 50.0 hours. If it hasn't gone into regen by then, it automatically does on the 50 hour mark. Most of my first 50 hours were running it at PTO speed during the winter. I was concerned operating it in the cold would cause it to run cooler, and regen more often. Obviously, that didn't happen.

Surprisingly, the second regen happened at 85 hours (35 hours later). This was after doing mostly loader work during the summer, with little load on the engine. My dealer had told me run it at 1800 RPM minimum, which is what I was doing most of the loader work at. I now run it at about 2200, to try to run it hotter.

Just be sure to give it a couple of minutes to warm up before bringing the RPM's up, and similarly, to cool down before turning it off.

 

[Bearsixty7]

I am learning the ropes with my new MT345e, mostly with running a scraper blade and a box blade working on a gravel driveway, some of it flat and some of it on a hill. During the first 6 hours I would operate at 1500-1600 rpm. The next weekend I operated at 1800-2000 rpm. It was during the 2nd weekend that at 14.6 hours the tractor went into regen. This lasted for about 15 minutes or so and I continued working while it was happening. There was a slight increase in the rpm but other that that the only noticeable thing was the smell generated by it. This seems kinda soon for a regen so I am wondering if it has to do with the rpm I have been running or is there something else I should be concerned about. Yes I am new to the tractor world but enjoying every minute of it.

What did your RPM increase to? That's where I would run it or 50-100 above, because it's apparently programmed or sensors set it to that RPM for a reason, probably sufficient heat to regen. My MT240 did it's first regen at 25 and it also ramped up the RPM to 1700-1750. Like you, I ran lower RPM (~1500) for light loader work, since then I try to run at 1800 minimum.

 

[Avenger]

Ohhh.... regens.

The computer should take over engine RPM when it starts. You can move the throttle up or down and shouldnt change the RPM during the burn. I have a video of me doing this (see signature line).

The only time my engine is ever at idle is during warm up or cool down. My operating idle is no lower than 1500 RPM. I do not work the tractor at 1500 RPM. My tractor has been on a fairly consistent regen cycle of close to every 50hrs. The schedule for the MT345, I have no clue.

 

[workinonit]

I'm new to all of the environmental stuff as I had a 2002 JD 5310 for 18 years. My manual says no lower than 1200 RPM on warm up, cool down and idle. Preferably 1500. Most of my work will be PTO work and I have 540E so my RPM are limited to no more than 1750. I guess that's my operating band. The most important thing is don't ever stop a regen even though you can, or at least I can on my 5090. And never turn the regen selector off. In other words don't prevent it from running when it thinks it needs to.

 

[neverfailyou]

Ohhh.... regens.

The computer should take over engine RPM when it starts. You can move the throttle up or down and shouldnt change the RPM during the burn. I have a video of me doing this (see signature line).

The only time my engine is ever at idle is during warm up or cool down. My operating idle is no lower than 1500 RPM. I do not work the tractor at 1500 RPM. My tractor has been on a fairly consistent regen cycle of close to every 50hrs. The schedule for the MT345, I have no clue.

Same for me

 

[Alan57]

I will start running around the 2000 -2200 range and see how long it takes for the next regen. I always let it warm up for a minute or two at 1000 and when finished I let it run at 1000 for the same amount.
Thanks

 

[Alan57]

It ran up to 2100-2200 area, the dash was dusty so I could not see very well.

 

[George2615]

I run mine at 2200 RPM most of the time unless using the PTO. Mine has a different engine but after reading numerous threads on the subject it seems these newer engines like to be run at higher RPM to prevent excess soot buildup.

 

[Alan57]

I am starting to think the same thing.
Thanks

 

[Supraman0614]

I started running mine at lower RPMs as you did, and I've had regens much earlier than the 50 hour mark. I had this conversation with my dealer, who said that the DPF needs heat to stay clean. If you run at lower RPMs, it will soot up much sooner and have to regen more often. The side affect to this is that the DPF will never clear itself entirely during a regen, and you will likely have to replace it sooner than if you consistently run it at higher RPMs. Much different than pre-emissions diesels.

 

[deserteagle71]

Different tractor, bigger engine, but....

I have never run my Kubota over 1900 rpm. No need to. 540 rpm on the PTO (using the E-PTO setting) is just over 1800 rpm for the engine. On the other hand, I don't let it idle much - as soon as the temperature gauge moves off the lowest setting I throttle it up. Over 400 hours on the tractor now. Can't really say how often the regeneration cycle cuts in because I don't keep track. Every once in a while I'll notice the regen light is on in the dash - and then the next time I look it is off. No difference in the way the tractor sounds or operates.

I was really leery of buying a tractor with all this new emissions stuff on it. But Kubota seems to have gotten it right. It's a totally painless process requiring no operator involvement. According to the owner's manual, the only time I should be involved is if when I was done using the tractor and ready to shut it off and the regen light is on, I need to let the tractor run at higher rpm until the regen light goes off and then it is Ok to turn the engine off.

 

[neilkingent]

It ran up to 2100-2200 area, the dash was dusty so I could not see very well.

every time I've had regen issues, it's because the air filter was dirty. The outer filter works very well, but gets clogged.

 

[mred2]

When younger, we blew our air filters out about every two weeks. It is over looked a lot of times. People blow out the radiator after mowing, but forget that the air filter is sucking in the dirt too.