Stumps and tires don't mix

[Fredex]

Since I am clueless about what a boot should cost (but do know what a boot is, one up on the Doc, lol) and the expected lifespan of one in hours of service, plus what a reasonable cost to break the tire down and install the boot should be. All of these questions are to get an idea so I don't get taken when I call to have someone do the work.

It is no small job to break down & repair a tractor rear tire. Prices here in MO vary by tire size and whether or not an on-site service call is involved. Cheaper if you bring it in. Count on at least an hour at the going labor rate, I think - more for on-site svc call. I paid around $50 for a 14.9x28 tube I think (memory??) a couple of years ago. Smaller should be less. The boot(s) are a minor added cost. If you boot it, you should definitely have a tube in it. Boots are more of a structural patch than an air tight patch, plus the tube will exert pressure against the boot to help hold it. Hard to say how long it will last. Might last quite a while just putzing around with a mower; not so long if doing heavy traction or weight bearing work.

 

[sandman2234]

14.9-24 is the tire size, slightly smaller than what was on it when I purchased the tractor. The tires and wheels were part of a sprinkler system that was dismantled. The rims had the same bolt pattern as the JD, but used slightly smaller boltholes. I purchased a drill bit and went to work on a couple of them so I could get away from the "get stuck" turfsaver tires.
If a boot with tube costs less than $100 installed, I will probably go ahead and do it, just to use some more life of the tire. Another thing might be to remove the air and install antifreeze, to decrease the pressure on the boot.
The rims I have are manufactured locally by a wheel and rim company, and are flat 1/2" steel plate centers. The rims are manufactured, and then hot dipped galvanized. I don't think I will have to worry about rust. One of these days I am going to have to try some yellow paint on them to see if it will stick.
Thanks,
David from jax

 

[dirt clod]

if you just double boot and tube it the the preasure in the tire may push the boots and tubes out a little past the tire caseing and it would be easy to puncture. If it was mine I would have it vulconized, double booted without grinding tire inside for boot and put a tube in it. This should hold up well. i've had this same problem with tractor tires and a atv tire that had a tread depth of 2 1/2" that gets ran over roots all the time and has held up well.