stump pulling

[MarkLeininger]

I rent a large stump grinder when I need to do this. $200/day. Get the kind that traverse from side to side. They will go down deep enough to leave nothing but isolated roots, which you can pull out or leave depending on what you're trying to do. It will take you a few minutes to turn a 6" stump into mulch. I attach the stumper to the tow ball on my drawbar and pull forward over the stump until I'm in position. Don't even have to back up.

 

[btolle]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Are you running the chain over it, like a pully, to redirect the force? If you could clarify how you chain it to the stump to achieve a 90 degree change, I'd appreciate it.
)</font>

Yes, I use the wheel like a pulley. Roll the wheel up to the stump and put the grove in the wheel (the part that is normally covered by the tire). I run a small chain through the center (hub) hole of the wheel and around the stump to hold the wheel tight against the wheel. Then I hook the chain to the stump. As I pull on the chain, the stump will (theoretically) "roll" up over the wheel.

What that does is change the force on the stump from a lateral force to a vertical force. Instead of trying to drage the roots out of the ground sideway I am pulling them straght up. Sort of like you pull a weed straight out of the ground. If you try to pull a weed by grabbing it and pulling it to the side you are less likely to get it out and you will disturb more soil than if you had pulled straight up.

Hope that makes sense. If it doesn't tell me and I will try again or maybe someone can draw a picture.

Bill Tolle

 

[edski]

I'm gonna have to give that a try.
I've used a notched board on fence posts before (watched my grandpop do it when I was a kid)...acts in a similar way. But the wheel deal sounds like a winner.
Thanks, edski

 

[Cliff_Johns]

The problem with stump grinding, and with using the FEL to dig the stump, is that the original post asked about stump pulling from between other trees, an issue I also have. Stump grinding will result in killing the other close trees and using the FEL to dig with would probably result in the same thing even if you could get at the stump with a 60" wide implement.

Using a wheel to convert sideways to verticle force sounds pretty good. I've heard of using notched logs, but a wheel would be a nice strategy. You would need to tie it down as one poster already said, to avoid having the wheel squirt out and whack you in the head.

Cliff

 

[SCB]

You are so right Cliff. I was in a hurry and missed the part about him going between the trees /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Angus99]

Bill, thanks for clarifying about the wheel method. Can't wait to try it--I have two or three acres of scrub mixed with mature trees to clean up this way, so I think my summer is pretty well spoken for.

It's going to be a LONG two days waiting for this beauty (the 3130) to be delivered.

Thanks again to everyone else who responded. Sometimes, I wonder how we ever got along without these discussion groups. This is the third for me (previously I was on a TR6 and antique Ford tractor board) and this one's every bit as helpful.

Ian

 

[bfarr]

If you have stumps to start with that's one thing, but the best way to deal with a trees roots is to push the standing tree over then remove the stem from the root system.

 

[bugstruck]

Bingo! I was dumb to this on the first several trees. After that I push it or pull it over if I can. 6" pines are a effortless. A 5" pine is about a 10 second push over operation stump and all. No chains, straps, or cables. Just stay clear of the fall line and seriously ponder the potential for whip back and snap off before you start to push or pull on any tree. Have a plan. If it's frozen or the wind is blowing forget it. Put the ROPS up and take the seatbelt off!!!!! The tractor may start the fight but the tree could end it. I'd rather be afoot than anchored if it went bad. I doubt most will, but Find a native Indian, tree Climber/clearer/Arborist, or older Carpenter if you can, most can feel the wood with their eyes and offer advice on how it should react. Hardwoods are a little tougher, but they generally come down too. The only time to cut down a small tree IMO is if you intend to grind the stump or leave it, or you just can't get a clean shot at it. Larger 7" plus trees sometimes offer no other option for most CUT's. But leave that stump long and think about that before you drop it too. That's a real vulnerable cut technique from a safety aspect. Most 6" to 8" softwood stumps just push over with the loader if they are say 30+" above grade. Lean on them with the FEL from one, two, or three different attack angles and they usually lay over in one direction. From there they get fairly simple to pop with a FEL toothbar, chain, or cable. Teather a safety line or lay something heavy on chain or cable in case it pops instead of the stump.

It's dangerous, /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif know it. Nuff on safety. I'm getting bored too.

HTH /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[MarkLeininger]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Stump grinding will result in killing the other close trees ... )</font>

I talked to our tree service about this a couple years ago and the arborist said just the opposite. The most destructive way to remove a tree if you're concerned about the surrounding trees is by pulling it out because it stretches and breaks many of the roots of the surrounding trees with it. By using a stump grinder you affect a very small area right at the base of the removed tree and cut it out rather than pull it out. Even more effective is to use a root pruner before you grind the stump if it's a really big tree.

A few construction sites I've been on had large trees that they wanted to save. They brought in a tree company that had a machine with a huge set of hydraulic driven knife blades that penetrated the earth several feet deep in a large circle around the tree to prune the root system. They said that if heavy equipment drives on the surrounding root system it tears all the roots under the ground because they can't stretch. If you prune the roots first, the part around the tree remains intact. It will ****** the growth for a year or two, but it will grow back healthy. They also pruned the tree above ground to reduce the load on the root system.

 

[rfogle]

Yep, there are all kinds of ways to rid your property of stumps, etc. My only offering to this thread is to know the condition of your attaching device, chain, cable, or strap; and keep the distance to your work as short as possible. Any one of these will stretch - if they break (and in time, they will) the kinetic energy released will pull the length attached to the power source right back at it in a severe whipping action. No sense losing your head.......