Strong smell YM1510D/ what is this for?

[alexpops]

You mention running at "high power" ... what are you doing? running a mower? Deck belts ok? How tight is the alternator/fan belt? does it look shiny or burnt? You also mention changing the exhaust. Could it be stickers/coating still burning off If you didn't burn off completely by running it through the smell? spill oil on the exhaust manifold during the oil change? when did this start & what were you doing at the time? background & history may make diagnosis easier.

 

[California]

Maybe something unusual - a fuel additive or something - in the fuel? I once dumped the last dribble of UTF into the fuel tank. Then the tractor smelled like an overheated transmission.

 

[Jjpbe]

@alexpops. Coolant tank and oil looks normal. It’s difficult to describe the smell, it’s not the usual diesel smell, maybe it is burned coolant or oil , I don’t know. I always put an additive in the oil and fuel to clean injectors and to reduce smoke (but it does not have excessive smoke)

 

[ponytug]

@alexpops. Coolant tank and oil looks normal. It’s difficult to describe the smell, it’s not the usual diesel smell, maybe it is burned coolant or oil , I don’t know. I always put an additive in the oil and fuel to clean injectors and to reduce smoke (but it does not have excessive smoke)

Hmmm. Ok, a few more questions;
Do you see any smoke in the exhaust, and if so what color is it?
What is the additive that you add to the fuel?
What do you add to your oil?
Where do you source your fuel from? (Where are you located BTW?)

Thanks.

All the best, Peter

 

[Jjpbe]

When I give a lot of power then black smoke is coming out as well as on start up. I use bar’s or wynn’s stop smoke/ engine oil treatment and Wynn’s diesel plus treatment. But this doesn’t help. I don’t think the diesel is the problem as my Kubota L245 and Toro 223D works fine with it.

 

[ponytug]

When I give a lot of power then black smoke is coming out as well as on start up. I use bar’s or wynn’s stop smoke/ engine oil treatment and Wynn’s diesel plus treatment. But this doesn’t help. I don’t think the diesel is the problem as my Kubota L245 and Toro 223D works fine with it.

Black smoke is overfueling, and I would not sweat a puff at startup. So, I don't think it is an issue. If your other tractors are fine, then I agree, it isn't the fuel.

If you were having a coolant leak into the exhaust, I would expect you to notice other things besides a smell.

Could your alternator be in trouble? (Poor ground, bad wire terminals, failing diodes?)

Any chance a mouse or something is in the exhaust, or intake / air filter?

All the best,

Peter

 

[bmaverick]

@alexpops. Coolant tank and oil looks normal. It’s difficult to describe the smell, it’s not the usual diesel smell, maybe it is burned coolant or oil , I don’t know. I always put an additive in the oil and fuel to clean injectors and to reduce smoke (but it does not have excessive smoke)

Helpful info,

-----
How to keep the soot away and ways to prevent having the head warp and crack on these Yanmar engines.

- Do not let the engine idle below 1200rpms for longer than 10mins max at a time. And the time is with 20mins between.
- Do use 10W30 summer and 5W30 winter for engine oil. Do not use the heavy thicker 15W40 as it will hold the heat longer in the engine. Yanmar makes engines to JIS standards, not SAE. So the cooling oil passages are narrower in metric.
- Do keep the air intake filter clean. A clogged filter makes the engine work harder and heat builds up within the engine.
- Do keep the radiator and the screen clean.
- Do check the coolant. Do not use extended life coolants in these vintage machines.
- Do start the tractor slightly above idle.
- Do not race the engine from slow to fast and fast to slow.
- Do slow the engine speed down gradually, idle for 15 seconds then turn the engine off.
- When parking and doing the engine shut-off, be on level ground, take and place the gear in neutral and if equipped, the PowerShift in neutral.
- Diesel engines, especially the 2-clyliner types will cause a lurch-back on the last 2 piston firings. To prevent the energy going to the drivetrain, be in neutral.

Some of these tips are from Deere, some are in the Yanmar USA bulletins and some came from the Yanmar JP website before 2018.
-----

To remove the soot and carbon buildup in the cylinder head and exhaust, you need to run Seafoam.

Seafoam's original offering is for cleaning up diesel engines, especially tractors, forestry machines and industrial.

 

[Jjpbe]

Thank you for all the inputs and as always helpful information. @ pony tug: I will check the alternator.
@bmaverick , good idea to use sea foam, I’ll see if that helps, thanks for the info

 

[alexpops]

Based on BMaverick's post, I'm wondering if your oil additives are adding viscosity & retaining heat in the block. I haven't used oil additives in decades, but as I remember, they tended to be kind of thick & sticky (like bar lube) vs normal oil (at least the stuff I used in the 70's).

 

[ponytug]

Based on BMaverick's post, I'm wondering if your oil additives are adding viscosity & retaining heat in the block. I haven't used oil additives in decades, but as I remember, they tended to be kind of thick & sticky (like bar lube) vs normal oil (at least the stuff I used in the 70's).

The worn engine ("high mileage") additives do tend to be thicker, but I've never heard of a thermal issue with them. Cleaners, like SeaFoam, tend to be thin, as they are usually a combination of solvents, and detergents to get gunk off of surfaces.

Even in an air-cooled engine, I don't really see how a thin oil film is going to do much from a thermal perspective. On an oil cooled engine like a Deutz, significant gum/varnish would certainly impair heat transfer, but that would be a lot of gunk. Even in the Deutz engines, I haven't ever heard of a thermal issue traced back to oil or additives; usually it is just someone forgot to clean the exterior (air) side of the air to oil radiator. As an aside, the oldest working Deutz that I've seen is one from the thirties/forties, so lots of time to have had issues.

All the best,

Peter