Still confused about grease (Kubuota 2320, FEL, MMM)

[BK1]

Hello folks, first time poster here.

Been reading about grease for hours now. Am afraid to even touch my pretty, new B2320 now for fear of burining something up with too much, too little or wrong grease!

Learned a lot so far, but still confused about something.

DieselPower made a comment to a guy hwo wanted to use ONLY ONE GREASE FOR EVERYTHING named "phyxer" in one grease thread that a good multipurpose moly grease could be used for the tractor and all of the implements that phyxer had.... several were high speed implements. But DP also said that Moly is best for slow mving heavilly loaded parts. And he never really addresses the MMM, only the FEL and BAckhoe.

So Im sure I am misunderstading something and bow to everyone's knoweldge. Being new to using a tractor, I have a long learning curve ahead.

BUT I NEED TO NOT DESTROY MY PURTY NEW TRACTOR AS I LEARN

I dont mind if it takes 2 diff greases to do it right. I dont want to pay an arm and a leg for grease, but I understand the value in proper maintenance. I want to ensure I get grease with the proper ratings that DP has mentioned in the past. And I want to avoid the base/oil separation issues that I hear people complain about.
I need to understand several things:

1) What is the proper/best grease to use on the 60" MMM (RCK60-29B) ?
2) What is the proper/best grease to use on the tractor (B2320) ?
3) What is the proper/best grease to use on the FEL (LA304) ?
4) Can all of the zerks I will hit be pumped until the grease overflows from the fittings or are there some I need to be more "gentle" with?
5) Are there any zerks on my setup that prob are easier to hit with an angled grease coupler?
6) Am I going to have my arm fall off if I try to manually pump the grease with a Lincoln hand operated squeeze type pump?
7) anything else I should have asked ?

Thanks for your patience guys... sorry if I missed some answers in all my reading.... its all a blur now.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Hello folks, first time poster here.

Been reading about grease for hours now. Am afraid to even touch my pretty, new B2320 now for fear of burining something up with too much, too little or wrong grease!

Learned a lot so far, but still confused about something.

DieselPower made a comment to a guy hwo wanted to use ONLY ONE GREASE FOR EVERYTHING named "phyxer" in one grease thread that a good multipurpose moly grease could be used for the tractor and all of the implements that phyxer had.... several were high speed implements. But DP also said that Moly is best for slow mving heavilly loaded parts. And he never really addresses the MMM, only the FEL and BAckhoe.

So Im sure I am misunderstading something and bow to everyone's knoweldge. Being new to using a tractor, I have a long learning curve ahead.

BUT I NEED TO NOT DESTROY MY PURTY NEW TRACTOR AS I LEARN

I dont mind if it takes 2 diff greases to do it right. I dont want to pay an arm and a leg for grease, but I understand the value in proper maintenance. I want to ensure I get grease with the proper ratings that DP has mentioned in the past. And I want to avoid the base/oil separation issues that I hear people complain about.
I need to understand several things:

1) What is the proper/best grease to use on the 60" MMM (RCK60-29B) ?
2) What is the proper/best grease to use on the tractor (B2320) ?
3) What is the proper/best grease to use on the FEL (LA304) ?
4) Can all of the zerks I will hit be pumped until the grease overflows from the fittings or are there some I need to be more "gentle" with?
5) Are there any zerks on my setup that prob are easier to hit with an angled grease coupler?
6) Am I going to have my arm fall off if I try to manually pump the grease with a Lincoln hand operated squeeze type pump?
7) anything else I should have asked ?

Thanks for your patience guys... sorry if I missed some answers in all my reading.... its all a blur now.

My 2 cents...I've always used a multi purpose EP, high temperature grease...it's cheap, effective and can be used for general lubrication as well as trailer wheel bearings, etc. I checked my shop and the only other tube grease I have on hand is a lithium based NLGI. For my tractor, I use whichever happens to be at the front of the lube cabinet when I need a new tube. Don't overthink it too much. And instead of a fixed coupler (angled or otherwise) I installed a 2' hose...it seems to allow access to everything without a hassle.

 

[irvingj]

Ditto use of a single high-pressure grease all over. I just ensure that I buy a quality grease. Classification is GC-LB, I believe; marketed as "Premium" and/or "Extreme Pressure."

I use a fixed tube on the end of my hand gun so I can get some decent pressure on the grease fitting; I can reach all, though I do have to operate FEL & BH to expose some. A couple of fittings have been swapped for angled ones to make it easier.

You might also, if you haven't already, read threads about stubborn fittings- on many new tractors, folks have had trouble getting the fittings to accept grease.

Sometimes due to a clog with paint, sometimes...? Who knows. I've pulled a couple and replaced them, only to find they work OK on the bench; on the other hand, when they were in their original locations, no way could I get grease into them, but the replacement fitting worked OK.... Must have been something in there that got dislodged. "It's a mystery!"

 

[psj12]

I too use an all purpose grease for just about everything except wheel bearings. Wheel bearings on disc brake applications require high temp grease.

 

[devildog1]

BK1,
not sure of your location because you did not add that, but if you have any Tractor Supply Centers around you that's a good choice for your grease. The most important thing about grease is to grease often, I do my B3200 about every 10 hours, and I hit every fitting on tractor, loader fittings, steering, and do not forget the hydro petal. If you have a backhoe, same applies. The tractor store stocks grease for tractors so you can't go wrong there, I would use it for all except wheel bearings. As you are aware, there have been many discussions on what brand, what consistency, what color, all moot points as far as I'm concerned, Just Grease Often and you'll do just fine.

Devildog

 

[radioman]

Okay- I have one question for you. From reading hours of grease threads here- Have one of them said they acutally burned up, ruined something from wrong grease and show pics ? All of the threads say this in general- wrong grease "CAN" ruin your day- but no pictures of something ruined. Even if it the wrong grease, overgreaseing it with that type of grease did NOT ruin it, just worn out some - MAYBE.

Just think of it this way- If you have a moving parts that spins alot creating heat like bearings in a spindle or bearings in a pulley, you need good quality, high temp grease. If it something that moves, but only handles heavy weight like pins,bushings on FEL, backhoe, etc- you need grease that is easy to inject into- but stays without thinning out. Hence thats why your manuals tells you a certain type of grease codes you should use so less guess work is taken out of figureing out all the various type of greases on the market.

Walk into a auto store or local tractor supply and look at the grease cartridges. there a few choices right ? There is less then 15 choices right? half of them are equal to each other, but may have one code different then the other. This is where it feels intimidating doesnt it? This is why, when reading the manual- you should write down the type of greases THEY want you to use for what implements. Then go back to store and find the ones that matches- chances are you WILL find one or 2 that works for all applications for stuff you have only. This is just my humble opinion.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Dude, you're overthinking this. Don't worry about getting the "best" grease. Anyway, ask 10 guys what the best grease is and you will get at least 9 different answers. IMHO, the best grease is the grease that is in the bushing, pin, or wherever it's supposed to be. How much grease? Again, a few different answers. All I can really say is that I don't care how good a grease it is, if it's not where it's supposed to be, it's of no good. I would rather grease my equipment a little but often rather than a lot and seldom.

Your pins should be relaxed when you grease them. Have the weight off of your bucket, etc. The pins are drilled so that the grease goes into the pressure point. If there is pressure on the pin (weight) it will hold the bushing against the hole that the grease comes out and you will have a very difficult time getting any grease in the fitting. You will learn all this as you go. Experiment a little.

A good practice while you are greasing is to examine the pins, welds, and the general structure around where you are lubricating. This is when you should notice a cracked weld or a broken/worn pin, a chaffed hose, loose fitting, etc. Take your time, don't be in a rush.

I have read about different types of greases not being compatible. I have never seen where two types of grease were used and something was ruined. I have seen where no grease was used and something did get ruined. So, I would rather use the wrong grease than none.

Good luck,
Andy

 

[Mikeeemo]

Ditto to all above.

Pick a brand / type you like, buy it by the case and use it.

Grease is cheaper than metal and down time.

 

[radioman]

wayne county hose said it the best!

All I can really say is that I don't care how good a grease it is, if it's not where it's supposed to be, it's of no good.

I have read about different types of greases not being compatible. I have never seen where two types of grease were used and something was ruined. I have seen where no grease was used and something did get ruined. So, I would rather use the wrong grease than none.

Good luck,
Andy

Another good point!