Step bumper hitch

8NTX · Aug 13, 2004

Has anyone used a drop-down box hitch attached to the step bumper of their truck? There are several manufacturers that make these; they attach to the existing holes on most step bumpers. The existing bumper hitch (by simply placing a hitchball through the hole) on my 2004 F-150 is rated at 500 lbs. tongue weight and 5000 lbs. max trailer weight. My tractor on my flatbed and boat w/trailer both max out at about 3600 pounds. Of course, the existing step bumper is too high and I need it about 4-6 in. lower. Seems like overkill to put on an expensive Class III hitch when the step bumper is already rated as much as I need.

johnday · Aug 13, 2004

It may be overkill, but I don't care much for bumper hitches. If it was me, I'd even forgoe the Class III and get a Class 4.
Please read disclaimer before any one tries to fry me again in regards to towing.

DISCLAIMER; The above opinions are only Johnday's, and reflect his own ideas on safety. Your opinion may differ.

JJT · Aug 13, 2004

I've put class 3 receiver hitches on my last 3 vehicles, they aren't that expensive, ($75 - $125 has been my experience). With the $125 hitch being an OEM dealer ordered hitch. I'd avoid the bumper mount for anything more than a utility trailer.

hosejockey2002 · Aug 13, 2004

Putting a drop down hitch on your bumper will put much more stress on the bumper than just the ball. You can get a Class III hitch installed for around $150-200. It's a drop in the bucket compared to a $30,000 truck. IMO, a good receiver hitch is not overkill, it's a necessity.

JDgreen227 · Aug 13, 2004

I had a 1990 F150 with the factory step bumper that was also rated for 5000 lbs, while I did install a drop down box hitch that attached to the bumper, it was only used for a utility trailer that weighed less than 1500 lbs. loaded.

Ford clearly stated in the owners manual that the 5000 lb. rating was considered void if any type of additional bracketing was added to the factory bumper. I would advise against adding the drop down box hitch as the majority of the ones I have seen are rated for only 3500 lbs. or less. When I needed to tow a travel trailer, I purchased a Reese Class III receiver hitch that cost me about $80 brand new. The truck cost me $7000 used, and if I had a brand new $30,000 pickup I'm darned if I would try to save a few bucks buying a low rated hitch.

Buy the receiver mount, it's cheap insurance and if you ever need to tow a really heavy trailer, your receiver will be capable of using a weight distributing hitch.

Egon · Aug 13, 2004

I'd go for a receiver hitch too.

Egon

hazmat · Aug 13, 2004

I picked up a Reese class III/IV hitch for under $100 at Walmart for my '01 F150. 30 minutes and a floor jack you're ready to go (no drilling). The model specific hitches are a little more money, but easier install (no shimming).

reb · Aug 14, 2004

I put one of those on my T100 a few years ago. Didn't use it for a lot of weight (maybe 1400 # max, usually less than 1000). After about three years, with a lot of use on poorly graded roads, I noticed the bumper had some vertical play--welds holding it on had broken. I immediately had a frame-mounted hitch installed. Works a lot better. Found a good one on line for $100 to install on the wife's new truck a few weeks ago.

Bird · Aug 14, 2004

That type of hitch isn't ideal, but they work just fine if not overloaded. That's what I had on my old '81 F250 on the farm, and I never had a problem pulling a 16' trailer with the B2710 on it.

GoodGuy · Aug 15, 2004

Don't want to hijack this thread but a quick question.....I have an 01 Chevy S10 and would like to wire in a trailer connector and wonder if there is anything that hooks into the existing wiring ??? I don't want to have to cut & splice, etc.etc.
Thanks
Eric