Starting Fluid

   / Starting Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#11  
By all means check valve adjustment if you've not done so lately but while you're at it make sure your glow plugs are getting power and the glow plugs themselves are good. They're basically a heater and can open up at any time.
My first guess would be your glow plugs are not working.

Does your glow plug light come on with the first position of the ignition key switch, if so how long does it stay on before you turn the key further to engage the starter? If the light is not coming on your timer/relay may be faulty.

A resistance measurement of the glow plugs can determine if they are still good.
I hooked each glow plug up to a 12v supply and they appeared to work fine The resistance was around 1.1 ohms one was 1.2ohms. the glow plug light stays on about 5 seconds before going out
 
   / Starting Fluid #12  
I hooked each glow plug up to a 12v supply and they appeared to work fine The resistance was around 1.1 ohms one was 1.2ohms. the glow plug light stays on about 5 seconds before going out

The timing on the glow plug light and your resistance readings sound good. The only other quick check that I can think of to confirm their functionality would be to measure the battery voltage as you turn the key as I would assume when the glow plugs are pulling power during the 5 second timeframe the voltage would drop.
 
   / Starting Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Have you adjusted your valves? The next thing I would look at would be anything that can cause low compression. De compression lever or anything of the sort. Even leaking down injectors can cause that.

I have a tc40 with 3500hrs and I dont think the glow plugs even work, it fires on the first rotation.
Would running a compression test work the same as testing a gas motor? I have a good tester, Sorry I feel retarded when it comes to Diesel engines, I've been around gas my whole life. I dont recall doing anything to my Allis n 30 years except settings points and changing plugs and a new voltage regulator once. Only way to learn is from having problems and this is my first one
 
   / Starting Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#14  
The timing on the glow plug light and your resistance readings sound good. The only other quick check that I can think of to confirm their functionality would be to measure the battery voltage as you turn the key as I would assume when the glow plugs are pulling power during the 5 second timeframe the voltage would drop.
I will try that today when I head out to the farm, thanks
 
   / Starting Fluid #15  
I started having problems with cold starting my TC33D (21 year old) and it was getting progressively worse, to the point where it was taking multiple glow plug cycles even when it was 60-70˚F out. Turns out is was my starter going bad. It was cranking too slowly to get the cylinders hot enough to fire. It happened over a long enough time that I had not noticed the slow down. The service tech at my dealer noticed it right away. I was skeptical that I didn't have some other problem like valves out of adjustment or failed glow plugs. He replaced the starter and it's been starting just fine ever since.

Service tech said the old starter was dragging, so apparently something was worn out in there. THe slow cranking just doesn't generate enough heat to reliably cause ignition in a diesel engine.
 
   / Starting Fluid #16  
Anyone know what might cause my TC33D to only be able to cold start with a (small) shot of ether for diesels. If I use it and shut it down it will fire right back up but sitting overnight it will just crank. Its been this way for a year and a half almost. Tractor runs great other than that, I can rule out fuel filters, fuel, regular maintenance things because it has gone on so long and I maintain as scheduled with mostly New Holland parts.. I have owned it since new, probably 13 to 14 years. It has 1200 Hours, no warning lights on dash
I have a TC29D, If I do not use the glow plugs it will not start. So I would first check to make sure the glow plugs are working properly.
 
   / Starting Fluid #17  
Anyone know what might cause my TC33D to only be able to cold start with a (small) shot of ether for diesels. If I use it and shut it down it will fire right back up but sitting overnight it will just crank. Its been this way for a year and a half almost. Tractor runs great other than that, I can rule out fuel filters, fuel, regular maintenance things because it has gone on so long and I maintain as scheduled with mostly New Holland parts.. I have owned it since new, probably 13 to 14 years. It has 1200 Hours, no warning lights on dash
Also suggest finding the cause, and for sure would suggest getting rid of the ether shots.
 
   / Starting Fluid #18  
New injectors helped my old Yan-Deere start quicker. It was obvious when removing them that the nozzles were crusty. One in particular had a lot of buildup and was making the exhaust port slobbery as well from the unburnt fuel.

If the injectors are making a poor spray pattern it's harder for the diesel to ignite properly, especially when it's cold. Instead of an atomized mist of diesel I was probably getting big drops and dribbles.
 
   / Starting Fluid #19  
Lots of Good info and help already Given,

Another question that will at least answer if fuel is being injected. When cranking are you getting some white diesel smoke ?
Even if the fuel charge is not quite hot/pressurized enough to ignite- you know some fuel is in fact being injected.
You could put a DC amp probe around the power feed to the glow plugs. Or add an amp meter in series. that will show that a Good amount of current is being drawn to heat the Glow plugs. The 5 seconds sounds short to me, maybe the timer circuit is not giving enough time duration to really get the glow plugs to proper temp? Seen that happen with 7.3 Ford V 8s before.

I also agree with the starter may be weak group.

Cranking speed can increase cylinder pressure when cold and if given a choice a Permanent Magnet gear reduction starter can both give faster cranking speed while drawing less current.

You could add a block (freeze plug) heater or an inline coolant heater and just heat up the engine a bit before trying to start it. 5w-40 can also help with cold cranking speed.
Anyway some thoughts I had,
Hope you get the hard start sorted.
 
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   / Starting Fluid #20  
You've checked the glow plugs fairly thoroughly, but I would still recommend checking the voltage at the glow plug buss bar when the timer light is on and while cranking. It should be about 10.5V in both cases. I'm not confident that the glow plugs are *guaranteed on* when the lamp is illuminated. I checked the wiring diagram but still not sure. If you cycle the key a few times to get more "glow plug time" and if that helps, you can check out my post here:


I've never done a compression test on a diesel either (thought about in with my own troubleshooting!), but the pressures are much higher. I think it's the same procedure as gas, but you may need a tester with gauge designed for the high pressure of a compression engine.

I have a TC29 and an Allis B also! Though I just bought my Allis a few years ago.

P.S. There seems to be a little unnecessary negativity on this thread. The OP knows there is an issue, and that's why the thread was started. And what else are these forums for if not to help others figure out and solve problems?
 

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