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Starter problems
- Thread starter Huckster
- Start date
- Views: 6513
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Who Replied?Lunk
Platinum Member
My 2535 wont start. I checked the battery and its fine as are the connections. How do I figure out if its the starter and eliminate all other possibilities before I go and order a new one?
I'd start with the dumb stuff. I assume there's no cranking at all going on?
If so - I'd check all the usual suspects: PTO engaged? Shuttle lever and Trans in neutral? Etc., etc., ect....
I don't think your Century has a seat switch on it that may go bad (my new Branson doesn't, thank god!).
BTDT.
Good luck!
Lunk
I'd start with the dumb stuff. I assume there's no cranking at all going on?
If so - I'd check all the usual suspects: PTO engaged? Shuttle lever and Trans in neutral? Etc., etc., ect....
I don't think your Century has a seat switch on it that may go bad (my new Branson doesn't, thank god!).
BTDT.
Good luck!
Lunk
Don't forget the "clutch depressed FULLY" switch.
Right, there is no "150 lb minimum butt on seat" switch.
Let me know if you need schematic for troubleshooting this.
I have tried all of that. I have had the tractor for almost 5 years so I am pretty familiar with all of that. When I turn the key over, all I hear is "click". As I said, I checked all the connections to make sure they were clean, tested the battery and its good and made sure everything else was in place and still nothing.
If you have the schematic, i would really appreciate it.
If you have the schematic, i would really appreciate it.
OK, but it is a long fold out page, so in case I can't get it into my sheet feed scanner.
From battery +'ve terminal through a fuse link to a white wire going to terminal B on the key switch.
From C1 on the key switch a black/white wire to the clutch pedal switch (normally open).
Black/Yellow to a (normally closed) PTO safety switch.
Black to another (normally closed) PTO safety switch.
Black/Green to a (normally open) safety switch at shuttle lever.
Brown to starter relay R1, other side of that to ground.
If the click you hear is fairly loud then all of this is probably fine, so it is down to the relay, the starter itself or cables/connections from the relay to the starter or back to ground.
There is a picture of "the relay panel inside the dashboard compartment" (their words).
From left to right reading across the top row, 4 little squares;
R5 R6 R4 R1
R5 RH Road warning light relay
R6 LH Road warning light relay
R4 Reversing light relay
R1 Starter relay
Under that one rectangle and one square, approx under R5 and R6
C3 C2
C3 Glow plug controller
C2 Turn signal/ road warning light controller.
I'm guessing that this is view facing forwards, i.e .from the tractor seat.
To eliminate the relay you could TRY putting jumper cables directly across the starter, with associated risk of shorts and possible fire - your choice. Alternatively you could take the starter out and take it down to somewhere like Autozone for testing.
I tried to get this in my scanner, but it is bound and would need some cutting and messing with. Hopefully this description will do, if not maybe I can get to a MUCH bigger flat bed scanner at the library tomorrow if/when the snow stops.
From battery +'ve terminal through a fuse link to a white wire going to terminal B on the key switch.
From C1 on the key switch a black/white wire to the clutch pedal switch (normally open).
Black/Yellow to a (normally closed) PTO safety switch.
Black to another (normally closed) PTO safety switch.
Black/Green to a (normally open) safety switch at shuttle lever.
Brown to starter relay R1, other side of that to ground.
If the click you hear is fairly loud then all of this is probably fine, so it is down to the relay, the starter itself or cables/connections from the relay to the starter or back to ground.
There is a picture of "the relay panel inside the dashboard compartment" (their words).
From left to right reading across the top row, 4 little squares;
R5 R6 R4 R1
R5 RH Road warning light relay
R6 LH Road warning light relay
R4 Reversing light relay
R1 Starter relay
Under that one rectangle and one square, approx under R5 and R6
C3 C2
C3 Glow plug controller
C2 Turn signal/ road warning light controller.
I'm guessing that this is view facing forwards, i.e .from the tractor seat.
To eliminate the relay you could TRY putting jumper cables directly across the starter, with associated risk of shorts and possible fire - your choice. Alternatively you could take the starter out and take it down to somewhere like Autozone for testing.
I tried to get this in my scanner, but it is bound and would need some cutting and messing with. Hopefully this description will do, if not maybe I can get to a MUCH bigger flat bed scanner at the library tomorrow if/when the snow stops.
jgreen
New member
Hi Folks,
I thought I would wade in on this issue. The battery should have 12.6 volts with no load, this is sometimes called OCV (open circuit voltage) fully charged. Have the battery tested either using a load tester or a conductance tester. If battery is good use a voltage drop test to check the system. Check this web site (Voltage Drop Testing) for a easy to read article on voltage drop testing, and no I did not write the article but is a good article. A voltage drop test will help in pin pointing if the circuit, connections, relay, fuse, solenoid or starter is at fault. A voltage drop test is easy to do and only requires a voltmeter. You should see a drop of no more than .2 volts per connection and no more than 1.0 volts per the insulated (power) and ground side/circuit of the starting system. The nice thing about a voltage drop test is the system is tested intact and it shows the real condition of the circuit and sytem components. You can also use it to test for individual components (relays and solenoids) for their condition. Just remember, you must turn the circuit on when testing (attempt to start in this case) after hooking up your meter. You may have a reading of nearly battery voltage when you connect your voltmeter to the positive (power) side due to the ground brushes in the starter, this is normal. When you turn the key to the start position is the reading you are interested in. The voltage should at this time be going through the circuit and not the meter so it should be low, as a good circuit should have less resistance than the meter and provide a better path for electricity to flow. If the circuit passes the voltage drop test, then test the starter with a starter draw test or as mentioned earlier, take the starter to a local business that has a stater tester.
I hope this is not too confusing and is some help!
I thought I would wade in on this issue. The battery should have 12.6 volts with no load, this is sometimes called OCV (open circuit voltage) fully charged. Have the battery tested either using a load tester or a conductance tester. If battery is good use a voltage drop test to check the system. Check this web site (Voltage Drop Testing) for a easy to read article on voltage drop testing, and no I did not write the article but is a good article. A voltage drop test will help in pin pointing if the circuit, connections, relay, fuse, solenoid or starter is at fault. A voltage drop test is easy to do and only requires a voltmeter. You should see a drop of no more than .2 volts per connection and no more than 1.0 volts per the insulated (power) and ground side/circuit of the starting system. The nice thing about a voltage drop test is the system is tested intact and it shows the real condition of the circuit and sytem components. You can also use it to test for individual components (relays and solenoids) for their condition. Just remember, you must turn the circuit on when testing (attempt to start in this case) after hooking up your meter. You may have a reading of nearly battery voltage when you connect your voltmeter to the positive (power) side due to the ground brushes in the starter, this is normal. When you turn the key to the start position is the reading you are interested in. The voltage should at this time be going through the circuit and not the meter so it should be low, as a good circuit should have less resistance than the meter and provide a better path for electricity to flow. If the circuit passes the voltage drop test, then test the starter with a starter draw test or as mentioned earlier, take the starter to a local business that has a stater tester.
I hope this is not too confusing and is some help!
I don't want to HIJACK this tread, but my L2350 won't start and I can't find a good schematic of the wiring system. My problem is different in that I don't even get a "click" when I turn the key.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Brian.
You might get more/better attention in a Koo_Boo_Boo thread.
In the mean time,,, the sweeping generalities that have been covered so far in this thread should apply to general troubleshooting of starter problems; battery condition, resistance of connections (both power side and ground side), safety interlocks, etc.
To find the starter relay (assuming there is one) you will need to search out K_brand specific docs.
I vaguely remember a post claiming that at least some of them are on-line.
Tractors aren't THAT different to cars/trucks in that you could TRY jump starting it with jumper cables from a running vehicle.
bpicard
Member
Reg,
Thanks. Sorry about the confusion. I need to pay more attention to which forum I'm in.
Brian.
PS--I've tried jumping it and put in a new battery, no click, no nothing when I turn the key.
Thanks. Sorry about the confusion. I need to pay more attention to which forum I'm in.
Brian.
PS--I've tried jumping it and put in a new battery, no click, no nothing when I turn the key.
Then it is probably down to safety interlocks and the starter relay.
Again, I don't know K_Brand, but there is almost certainly a relay somewhere and the other forums might be able to help you to find it.
There might even be some clues molded into plastic covers, or stickers.
Tracing the fat wire from the starter +12V side should lead you to it, or it might even be "integrated" into the starter as many car/truck starter solenoids are these days.
Good luck.
\R
Again, I don't know K_Brand, but there is almost certainly a relay somewhere and the other forums might be able to help you to find it.
There might even be some clues molded into plastic covers, or stickers.
Tracing the fat wire from the starter +12V side should lead you to it, or it might even be "integrated" into the starter as many car/truck starter solenoids are these days.
Good luck.
\R
bpicard
Member
Reg,
Thanks again. You are right the battery + lead connects directly to the starter as you suggested.
Anyway, I found the problem--the clutch interlock switch was out of adjustment. My tractor is running and life is good.
Thanks.
Brian.
Thanks again. You are right the battery + lead connects directly to the starter as you suggested.
Anyway, I found the problem--the clutch interlock switch was out of adjustment. My tractor is running and life is good.
Thanks.
Brian.
Reg,
Thanks again. You are right the battery + lead connects directly to the starter as you suggested.
Anyway, I found the problem--the clutch interlock switch was out of adjustment. My tractor is running and life is good.
Thanks.
Brian.
Details please ?
Does your clutch interlock switch go out of adjustment as the clutch wears ?
or as you adjust the rod for free play to compensate for clutch wear ?
... or is it just unrelated to clutch wear ?
Just curious, such knowledge might help others, etc.
