Standard Air Tools For Tractors

[MikePA]

For those of you with an air compressor...

What tools and accessories do you consider 'must have' for working on compact tractors, related attachments and vehicles? This will be for my personal use, no plans to become a professional. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The only requirement I have for the compressor is that it has to be portable and has to run on 115v. Here's a link to the compressor I am considering. While I was at this web site, I started looking around and thought I might as well buy everything I need. But then I realized, I don't know what I need. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Bird]

Mike, that ought to be a pretty nice little compressor and will handle most of the jobs you'd want to do except it probably couldn't keep up real well with a paint spray gun or sandblaster. As for what else you need; everything! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif You'll probably never get through adding tools and accessories. I'd start with:

air chuck(s) for airing up tires of course
air blow gun for cleaning things
1/2" impact with at least 425 ft./lbs. of torque
3/8" ratchet
extra hose and plenty of quick couplers

Then:

air chisel/hammer with assortment of bits
reciprocating saw
1/2" reversible drill
angle die grinder

Of course a filter and pressure regulator if they're not included, and plenty of air tool oil.

 

[jpr62902]

I'll second Bird's post. The air ratchet is, by far, the most-used of my pneumatic tool collection. I'd add that a permanent-mount hose reel that can hold 75' -- 100' of hose is a must. Otherwise, air hose is a monumental pain in the back side to roll up and store without twisting the heck out of it.

The size of your potential compressor should be just fine. 8.8 CFM will push a lot of air through those tools. It'll probably drive 2 -- 3 framing nailers for when you have the guys over to build your tractor barn.

This is kinda off topic, but do you also have a 1/2" drive socket set? So far, the largest socket and wrench I've used is 1 1/8". That's a bit large for a 3/8" drive.

 

[RobertN]

I'll third Birds post /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Things I would add or change are as follows:
SAFETY glasses
lots of hose
impact sockets
3/8" butterfly impact wrench
3/8" Standard impact wrench
lots of hose fittings
Maybe a 3/4" impact

If you are blowing stuff off or air hammering ect, wear some eye protection.....

I have 100' of hose. Two sections are 25'. In the garage, I usually use 25'. It is short and does not get tangled ect. If I work in the driveway, I add a second 25'. Those are my garage/outdoor hoses, which reach most work area's I need, as well as a couple access point for the house. (My compressor is a 60gal upright stationary unit)

My third section of hose is 50', clean, and orange. I have a brad gun and a finish nailer that I used when I trimmed out some rooms in the house. It was nice to have clean non marking hose that was very visible when working in the house.

Remember, you want to use hose as the "Extension hose", not electrical cord. Long extension cords have IR drops and will burn up your motor...

I learned from my Volunteer Firefighting, to always connect hoses when not in use. Nothing worse than a hose end dragging in gunk, contaminating the hose, and then contaminating and ruining a tool. Not such a big deal at home as it is in an emergency response, but air tools are not cheap...

Get lots of hose and attachment fittings. I hate it when I have to take a fitting from one tool and put it on another so I can use it. I have all my air tools fitted with couplers, and have some extras for when that odd setup comes along.

IMHO, FWIW, I really like the 3/8" butterfly impact. It has worked much better fo me than the air ratchet I had. It acceses area's easier, and has about 80ftlb torque. I think my air ratchet was a junker cheapo, though...

I got a 3/8" impact wrench. It is pretty handy.

I have had need of my neighbors 3/4" impact to remover the honkin big nuts on the rotary mower blades... Only time I have ever needed it, but when I did, it worked well.

I like impact sockets better than standard. I never broke my regular sockets, but the impacts seem beefier and are all 6-point instead of 12 point/6point mix.

Remember, air nozzles and impacts can be fun noise makers too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Bird]

All good advice, Robert.

 

[Junkman]

I would add a disk cut off grinder. a pair of heavy welders gloves, a box of disposable latex exam gloves, and lots of paper towels or wipers... You might also want some waterless hand cleaner. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Almost forgot..... a ball valve right before the drier regulator to shut down the air if you blow a hose and one ball valve at the bottom of the tank to make draining easy...

 

[PineRidge]

Junkmans post brought a product to mind that you may want to also consider. Harbor Freight sells a pneumatic valve for an air compressor tank that drains it of water when the compressor cycles off each time. The best part is they are less than 10 bucks and install very easily. I installed one on my compressor when I bought it and the valve works very well. Draining water from my compressor air tank is one less thing I now have to worry about. See it click here

 

[Junkman]

can you tell us how it works? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Phred]

If you want to keep it for a long time I would step upto a little bigger unit. For ~$700 you can get ~10-15 cfm. This will run a paint gun and sander that the little ones won't. Of course it depends on your budget, but I have a 4 cfm unit that was fine for the first year and now is way to small. It will run a finish nailer well, a ratchet fair, but the impact is marginal. A couple of hits and then you need to wait for the tank to refill.
I am looking at something in the 15 to 18 cfm range.

As far as tools goes I find the impact the most useful. You can remove things with this that are tough by hand where as the ratchet is more of a time saver.

Classic example is a disc mower. The discs have a ~ 1.25" nut on top of each disc, but of course the discs spin. Pain in the %^$ with a hand tool, but a snap with the impact. The impact will spin the nut off without spinning the disc.
I have a IR thunder gun and love it.

Fred

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> I am looking at something in the 15 to 18 cfm range. </font>
Wont this require 220v? If so, where this compressor is going to live most of the time there's only 110v.

 

[fishman]

Looks pretty neat, but the max pressure listed is only 100, and my tank pressurizes to almost 140 psi. Aren't most compressors rated to at least 120?

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> can you tell us how it works?
</font>

Junkman very well thank you /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Actually it's quite simple. The main auto drain valve assembly replaces your standard drain valve at the bottom of your tank.

Plastic tubing (supplied) attachés to the main auto drain valve.

The plastic tubing is then T connected into the vented pressure switch or pilot valve or receiver pressure unloader whichever you may have on your compressor. It may also be connected to the discharge line unloader, or combination tank check valve and discharge line unloader. The supplied instructions make all this crystal clear.

Each time the compressor starts or stops the water will be automatically ejected from the air storage tank. This system does not prevent the air tank from maintaining a full head of air while sitting idle.

It took me longer to type these instructions than it did for me to install the gadget on my compressor. And for less than 10 bucks it would be really hard to beat.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> Looks pretty neat, but the max pressure listed is only 100, and my tank pressurizes to almost 140 psi. Aren't most compressors rated to at least 120?
</font>

Fishman the 100 psi limit was not mentioned in their catalog, nor was it mentioned in their instruction booklet that I am holding in my hands, that came with the product. My compressor cycles off at 125 psi and all works well since I installed it last summer. Maybe a typo on their end?

 

[Phred]

Mike,

Yes. They higher flow rates do require 220V.
Sorry I missed the 110v as a requirement.

You might be able to get one with a 110V motor, or as a motor that can be rewired for 110V, but the current would be high. Some of these are in the ball park of 30 amps at 220V.

Fred

 

[slowzuki]

In order of usefulness, air tools I own and run on a 120 V compressor:

1/2" impact
air chuck
blow gun

Air hammer
Sandblaster
3/8 butter fly impact
3/8" rachet

Die grinder
Paint gun

Maybe if I had a bigger compressor the order would be different. Air sanders I have used are no better than electric but cost much more (both initially and to operate)
Air drills do nothing an electric can't do faster and quieter.
Worst culprit, air-4inch disc grinder, I just don't understand this one, weighs a ton, costs a fortune, no better that electric.
Ken

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Air sanders I have used are no better than electric but cost much more (both initially and to operate) )</font>

Ken, it may be true that they cost more to buy, . . . but to operate? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Of course, I repaired a lot of air sanders, both orbital and in line (also called air files by a lot of mechanics and body men). And they always came to me filthy, but that's what all the body shops used. Now I can't say for sure, but I do believe they'll hold up better than electric in heavy duty use.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Air drills do nothing an electric can't do faster and quieter. )</font>

Again, probably true for most of us but I'll bet you never used a top of the line Chicago Pneumatic or Sioux drill. Sioux makes some of the most powerful and yet small in size and light weight drills I've ever seen, but of course they're out of my price range. One of the major trucking companies has a bunch of the "T-handle" drills for drilling the rivets out in the trailer rebuild shop. Amazing tool.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( air-4inch disc grinder, I just don't understand this one, weighs a ton, costs a fortune, no better that electric )</font>

I don't understand this one either, because I've worked on Sioux, Chicago Pneumatic, and Ingersoll-Rand air grinders and they were lighter than similar sized electric tools, but of course you do need a compressor that can deliver a high volume of air, and as you said, they ain't cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[MikePA]

Now that I have my air compressor and the tools are on the way, where do you guys keep your portable compressors, basement or garage? The reason I ask is that my garage is not secure, basically, anything that could fit through a standard 'human' door could easily be taken. So, a portable compressor could be gone rather quickly. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

We've already had a tow behind sprayer grow legs, and it was sitting right next to the garage.