Stabilizer question

[Soundguy]

Silver solder will require lower heat than brass.. but more heat than regular solder.. however silver solder will withstand more abuse than regular solder.

Lots of dbl barrel shotguns have silver solvered center ribs.. also.. I know the oil pump pickup tube in my ford tractos are silver soldered to the oil pump... sticks to steel/iron VERY good.

I'd run the damaged section well away from the wiper and seal.. and if I couldn't get more than 4" away.. I'd lay a wet rag over the metal right next to the seal.

For the real electronic buffs.. you can get a solder het protector gell and can lay abead on the seal.. it was made to 'pot' / heatsink components and wick heat away to prevent them from cooking while soldering.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Davo]

I really appreciate all the advice. I filed down the ridges today and they feel good. The gouge in question is about 4 inches long(i know what was i thinking) being a rookie maybe thats not too long /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Anyway I had a follow-up question- when I braze this stabilizer that is hardened steel, will it weaken it at all? Also, the gouge is near the footpad on the stabilizer and when full up will be inside the piston. Should I wait for seal to be damaged or fix it now? the depth is about 1/16-1/32 deep. not much in my mind but I'm sure you guys know better. Maybe being that shallow it will not damage the seal and i should leave it alone. What do you guys think?
Thanks again
davo

 

[Soundguy]

For a piston application.. I don't tink a little propane and solder.. or mapp and brass is gonna hurt it much. Since the cut is so far from the wipe / seal.. I'd run it out well away and repair now. And yes.. even that shallow gouge will let the seal deform and drag.. or at least bypass.. etc.

Soundguy