Redlands Okie
Veteran Member
So what do you do with millings that have bonded together a bit then gets pot holes. Kind of to compacted to grade it, to loose to stay together.
Spraying asphalt millings with diesel fuel. Results vs Theory
- Thread starter screamin400
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TMGT
Elite Member
We fill potholes with millings and compact with a plate compactor, depending on how hard it is well mix dry some dry concrete into the millings for the potholes.
Typically once we start to get potholes it's broken down enough to need more work anyways.
Typically once we start to get potholes it's broken down enough to need more work anyways.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Sorry for the OPs luck, but the problem is there is myth out there that millings/RAP set up like new asphalt. They are not a replacement for asphalt. What they are is a less dusty, more water and erosion resistant replacement for limerock. They have there place, but they are not a magical $10/ton fix for $65/ton asphalt.
DoubleO
Member
Maybe its a crazy idea, but has anyone considered using waste cooking oil instead of diesel on millings to bind it up?
ukiltmybrutha
New member
I have read this post with great interest. I paid a small fortune for an asphalt millings driveway. I had the pros come out with a roller and it looked good and seemed great at first. I had this done during the fall and have since had a few mid 80 degree days with no improvement. I went outside and torched some areas to get rid of previously installed weed block that was coming through with map gas. I noticed that the area seemed to be more sticky and firm than the area around it. I am thinking of getting a harbor freight flame thrower and doing the entire driveway with it just to see if I can get this mess to look/feel better.
It does get into the 90's in my area during the summer and a few 100 degree days are possible. I still don't think that is going to help. Like the last poster mentioned, it is hard to get stuff to stick together that was made at over 300 degrees.
I am wondering if a flame thrower might provide some relief.
Thoughts?
It does get into the 90's in my area during the summer and a few 100 degree days are possible. I still don't think that is going to help. Like the last poster mentioned, it is hard to get stuff to stick together that was made at over 300 degrees.
I am wondering if a flame thrower might provide some relief.
Thoughts?
paulsharvey
Elite Member
All the torch is doing is re-melting a small amount of the A.C. (asphalt cement). Millings/RAP have much much lower A.C. than real asphalt. I really think the biggest problem is with the expectation level. The A.C. content is LOW, and although you might re-melt some of it, your also burning away some of your small amount of remaining asphalt.
ukiltmybrutha
New member
Thanks for your post. It is interesting that you mention expectations. What makes it difficult to swallow is that they were suggested to me on another forum. It becomes difficult to decipher what the reality is when one person will say that it sets up like real asphalt over time while another will say what you said and then another will insist that the equipment type used was not right and that I should do it again.
Without any equipment at hand and without knowing how to use certain tools myself I can establish one thing for sure. Rolling it again is a risky and expensive proposition that will likely result in the same outcome.
Thanks for letting me know about the A.C. content. I never stopped to think about that.
What really throws me for a loop is that in certain areas it really did set up very close to asphalt and in other areas (where there are fewer fines visible) it is identical to gravel.
The wonderful thing about it is that I do not track anything into my vehicles when washing them any more. I no longer have to wear bags on my feet after washing my cars like I did when the driveway was straight crusher run.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Different people get different results for many reasons. Some times a temporary lane or deficient asphalt will get milled up after a very short period of time, that would be sort of your best case, plenty of asphalt still in them. Crushed millings are more uniform than regular, straight of the road/milling pile.Thanks for your post. It is interesting that you mention expectations. What makes it difficult to swallow is that they were suggested to me on another forum. It becomes difficult to decipher what the reality is when one person will say that it sets up like real asphalt over time while another will say what you said and then another will insist that the equipment type used was not right and that I should do it again.
Without any equipment at hand and without knowing how to use certain tools myself I can establish one thing for sure. Rolling it again is a risky and expensive proposition that will likely result in the same outcome.
Thanks for letting me know about the A.C. content. I never stopped to think about that.
What really throws me for a loop is that in certain areas it really did set up very close to asphalt and in other areas (where there are fewer fines visible) it is identical to gravel.
The wonderful thing about it is that I do not track anything into my vehicles when washing them any more. I no longer have to wear bags on my feet after washing my cars like I did when the driveway was straight crusher run.
If rolling them before didn't do what you want, then re-rolling them will most likely not either. If you have a use for the torch, you could try it, but the amount of propane to heat large areas will get expensive.
If you have areas that area a specific concern if it's kind of lose, you might be able to use some of that 5 gallon bucket asphalt sealer. I just tried to upload a picture, it says it's a Tack Coat, (so real asphalt tack, not coal tar), the SS-1 would be Slow Set. If the product is an emulsion, you Might be able to 'cut' it with water and spray it.