Before you spend any money, I would clean things up like LD1 said and pull that canister and confirm the oil is leaking around the spool. If you really have to replace the spool, you have to replace that valve and spool together, that's big bucks. I've attached some photos of valves I've had apart, you can see how the orings seal between stacks and they're held together with long bolts.
Spool Valve Leaking out of open hole? Some type of cold plug maybe? *Pictures*
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Thank you @LD1 & @BeezFun. The pictures help tremendously. I'm also happy to see flares on the hydraulic in/out fittings as I didn't know what was being utilized for sealing and was thinking I might need to buy more orings / crush washers.
If I have to replace the spool + valve, there's no way I'm spending $2k for a bush hog part from messicks. I'll just have to dig deep and do my research well enough to build a new full prince valve array from surplus center and hope any fabrication to adapt it to the bush hog mounts / levers is something I can handle (pun intended
).
While on the topic, are there any recommendations for testing to see where the leak is coming from? I like the idea of cleaning + removing the valve array and working off my bench vs the tractor, but I don't know if I can replicate the leak on the bench. The part that got me worried about testing on the tractor is space constraints and the warning from @TractorTech saying that disassembling the float detention assembly can be tricky with ball bearings wanting to jump out all over the place. Right now, even without hydraulic pressure I can actuate the leaking valve and get a little puff + spurt through the bonnet's bleed hole. It might do that on the bench too, but I don't know for sure.
Lane
If I have to replace the spool + valve, there's no way I'm spending $2k for a bush hog part from messicks. I'll just have to dig deep and do my research well enough to build a new full prince valve array from surplus center and hope any fabrication to adapt it to the bush hog mounts / levers is something I can handle (pun intended
).While on the topic, are there any recommendations for testing to see where the leak is coming from? I like the idea of cleaning + removing the valve array and working off my bench vs the tractor, but I don't know if I can replicate the leak on the bench. The part that got me worried about testing on the tractor is space constraints and the warning from @TractorTech saying that disassembling the float detention assembly can be tricky with ball bearings wanting to jump out all over the place. Right now, even without hydraulic pressure I can actuate the leaking valve and get a little puff + spurt through the bonnet's bleed hole. It might do that on the bench too, but I don't know for sure.
Lane
TractorTech
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I wouldn't try to replicate the leak, but rather get a whole seal kit for the valve and just reseal. The spool and bore most likely is fine. You can look at the leak on the tractor by removing the bonnet and trying. The bonnet is a cover, not a retainer.
Second, I would not take the valve bank apart if you can avoid it, but definetly take it off of the tractor to work on it on the bench. This will avoid disturbing the sections and having to buy the section orings.
Last, you might be able to identify the valve maker; ie: Husko, Bailey, etc. and buy the parts through an aftermarket, but this can be more daunting timewise to get the right kit.
Second, I would not take the valve bank apart if you can avoid it, but definetly take it off of the tractor to work on it on the bench. This will avoid disturbing the sections and having to buy the section orings.
Last, you might be able to identify the valve maker; ie: Husko, Bailey, etc. and buy the parts through an aftermarket, but this can be more daunting timewise to get the right kit.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Yea, $2k for a valve section is crazy.
Once out there may be some some markings to identify manufacture/series and go direct to them. A valve section for a number of "generic" valves is usually $200-$400 range.
And Tractortech is right......for what you want to replace......really shouldnt need to split the valve sections.
There seems to be several seals in that "float" section. All should be able to be accessed while leaving the assembly bolted together. Same way with the spool seals. You can pull the spool itself out without splitting the sections and replace those seals.
However, the wildcard is if the leak is actually coming from between the sections and just dripping running down and making it look like its coming from elsewhere.
Do you have a hydraulic shop nearby to source seals once you get it apart. Sometimes those spool seals are NOT just plain o-rings, even though o-rings will work. Sometimes they are x-rings(quad-rings) that dont have a circular cross section. Like these O-RINGS Part # 4113 366Y | Allegheny York
Once out there may be some some markings to identify manufacture/series and go direct to them. A valve section for a number of "generic" valves is usually $200-$400 range.
And Tractortech is right......for what you want to replace......really shouldnt need to split the valve sections.
There seems to be several seals in that "float" section. All should be able to be accessed while leaving the assembly bolted together. Same way with the spool seals. You can pull the spool itself out without splitting the sections and replace those seals.
However, the wildcard is if the leak is actually coming from between the sections and just dripping running down and making it look like its coming from elsewhere.
Do you have a hydraulic shop nearby to source seals once you get it apart. Sometimes those spool seals are NOT just plain o-rings, even though o-rings will work. Sometimes they are x-rings(quad-rings) that dont have a circular cross section. Like these O-RINGS Part # 4113 366Y | Allegheny York
@LD1 - The leak is definitely coming out of that hole at the bottom of the spool bonnet. I replicated the leak by actuating the spool and watching it spurt out of the hole. Maybe of note. The spool valve only leaks through the bottom when the spool is pushed to the down position. The topside doesn't leak when the spool is pulled to the upward position. I'm hoping that speaks to the integrity of the spool to bore machining.
Thanks fellas. Now you'll have to bear with me as I shuffle through a couple of critical tasks before I can carve out a slot for this work. I will follow up with a go / no go report after replacing the seals though.
I've ordered the 92556 Spool Seal Kit and I'm hoping I'll be set to do the work by the time it arrives.
My plan of attack:
1. Thoroughly clean / degrease the array while still sealed / mounted to the tractor
2. Mark all hydraulic hose positions + take pictures
3. Remove hydraulic hoses
4. Remove hydraulic valve array in one piece and transport to bench / vice
5. Visually inspect the valves for any type of manufacturing details / castings / plates.
6. Replace bottom side and topside seals of the problematic spool valve without separating the array
7. Reverse steps 1-4
8. Profit?
Thanks again for all the help. I am overjoyed to see such a thriving forum / community in 2023. All my car forums have all but died over the last 10 years
Lane
Thanks fellas. Now you'll have to bear with me as I shuffle through a couple of critical tasks before I can carve out a slot for this work. I will follow up with a go / no go report after replacing the seals though.
I've ordered the 92556 Spool Seal Kit and I'm hoping I'll be set to do the work by the time it arrives.
My plan of attack:
1. Thoroughly clean / degrease the array while still sealed / mounted to the tractor
2. Mark all hydraulic hose positions + take pictures
3. Remove hydraulic hoses
4. Remove hydraulic valve array in one piece and transport to bench / vice
5. Visually inspect the valves for any type of manufacturing details / castings / plates.
6. Replace bottom side and topside seals of the problematic spool valve without separating the array
7. Reverse steps 1-4
8. Profit?
Thanks again for all the help. I am overjoyed to see such a thriving forum / community in 2023. All my car forums have all but died over the last 10 years
Lane
I wouldn't remove the valve assembly or hoses if you don't have to. It looks like on that valve orientation the spool will come straight out the top once you remove the actuator lever. I think you've got the right approach, don't touch anything you don't absolutely have to.
