Splitting wood by hand

[motownbrowne]

I saw someone mention this maul earlier, but I want to cast my vote for the Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. Short handle (32") and a light head (5.5lb) but can be swung for hours longer than an eight pound maul. I've never used a Fiskars, but it might be similar, although without a hickory handle or the initials of the man who forged it stamped into the bit. Also the gransfors has a metal collar on the handle to protect against overstrike. I knew a guy who bought one of these beauties and I thought that it was a dumb way to blow 175$, after all, a truper costs what, thirty? Then I split six cords with his and immediately bought my own. I do still bring my eight pounder out but might use it once every three hundred swings. I also have an estwing splitting hatchet I use too, I try to swing the least amount of weight needed.

I'll put up some pics soon of the gransfors. It really is a beautiful tool that will last forever. With its short handle and light head you can control the strike location with surgical precision compared to say, a monster maul. When you have a sharp edge, superior geometry and precision striking it sure doesn't take much for those rounds to pop. Its pretty much my favorite pastime.

 

[bacrow]

I know this isn't my thread, but you guys have convinced me to buy the X27. I ordered it and I will be using it by the weekend. I'm 5'8" and I was sold on the longer splitter based on commentary here and the hundreds of other reviews on the web.

 

[PhysAssist]

In your case, the X25 would probably be a better choice. Back when the X27 first came out, my understanding is that it was mainly intended for taller people, for which the X25 was dangerous -- an over-swing could potentially aim it right at the foot/shin area on a tall person. With the X27, and over-swing will still hit the ground even for taller people.

I'm 6'1" and the X27 fits me well, but I sure would not want it to be any longer! Based on that, I'd suggest an X25 for you.

Agree completely in all aspects.

 

[PhysAssist]

I now have two Fiskars splitting axes, the X27, and another one that has a 4# splitting head with a thicker wedge that I use for harder to split logs.

I try not to use it too awful much because it can really wear me out.

We now mostly split with the gas hydraulic splitter, but for a quick barrelful of bigger splits in straight-grained wood, I still pull out the axes.

Despite having a rotator cuff tear, I was able to split 2 X 55 gal 1/2 barrels full in a very short time, less time than getting ready to split with the gas splitter would take me.

Thomas

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I have a Fiskar 27 and I wish it was a bit longer but I am 6 foot tall. An X25 should work for you. My two cents is that the handle should be as long as your leg height. Course you can't get axe handles as easy as you can pant sizes. If the axe handle is too short, and the ax does not hit the splitting "stump", you could get whacked in the foot or leg by the axe.

With my hydraulic splitter it would take about 12 hours to split a cord. Last week, I split wood with the Fiskar for about 6 hours and got 3/4 of a cord. This was nice red oak with only a few pieces of forked wood. The Fiskar's axe handle has held up much better than the fiberglass handled splitters I have used in the past. I really like the Fiskar though I wish it was an inch or two longer and a bit heavier. Danged thing is sharp too and holds and edge.

As soon as I finished goofing off on TBN, I am going out side to split more wood. I really like the exercise. I have been wearing a heart rate monitor and I am burning 350-500 caloris an hour when splitting. The day I split wood for almost 6 hours, I burned around 3,400 calories and really got my heart rate up. I can get my average and peak heart rate to a level that matches what I do in the gym using a stepper or rowing machine. With splitting wood I burn calories, get exercise AND get firewood to heat the house! :thumbsup:

Later,
Dan

 

[PhysAssist]

Just keep in mind that the Fiskars is not a maul and is not a replacement for a maul. It shines in clear grain wood. If you expect to split only with the Fiskars, you will be disappointed. A good arsenal is:
Fiskars, 6 or 8lb maul, wedge/10lb sledge. I'm 78, put in time everyday the weather allows and use primarily the Fiskars and 6lb maul (to "tap" the back of the fiskars when the split doesn't finish) but all three get used.

Harry K

The 4# Fiskars replaced our maul, despite being half the weight, and we miss that heavy thing not a bit.

Be very careful with the "tapping" on the back of your Fiskars, while I was laid up with my knee replacement, my wife was trying to split wood, and had seen me using the sledge hamer on the back of our old maul, so she did that to the Fiskars, and fractured the metal head out of the plastic sleeve.

That is the only reason I can ever foresee needing to buy a new one.

I know that that flat back looks ready to take a hit from a sledge, but it isn't.

BTW, I think that they make these by putting the finished head into an injection mold and mold the plastic around it.

At the $35-50 or sometimes less price point of the Fiskars, vs. $175 for a Granfors, I think that the Fiskars has me forever.

Finally, I was taught to use the sledge on the axe or maual, and not to ever use the maul to hammer on anything else. I don't know what dire outcome I was being trained to avoid, but it is now an old habit.

Thomas

 

[turnkey4099]

The 4# Fiskars replaced our maul, despite being half the weight, and we miss that heavy thing not a bit.

<snip>

Finally, I was taught to use the sledge on the axe or maual, and not to ever use the maul to hammer on anything else. I don't know what dire outcome I was being trained to avoid, but it is now an old habit.

Thomas

The maul comes in handy when you have a hidden knot the fiskars can't reach or stringy wood.

As for the "don't hit the poll on tools" or "don't hit hardened tools with hardened tool" that was finally put to rest by the Myth busters. Stories of people getting killed by chips when doing that are usually traceable to a wedge where the mushroom had not been trimmed properly. Not a chip from the tool.

Harry K

 

[dmccarty]

If my Fiskars gets stuck in wood, or if there is a tough spot, I will use a piece of split wood as a mallet to whack the back of the ax head. Works pretty good.

Later,
Dan

 

[dirt ditch]

This is an interesting was to use energy stored in a spring to chop firewood by hand.

[video]http://www.wimp.com/choppingfirewood/[/video]

 

[dmccarty]

That looked like soft hard wood or maybe just a soft wood. I have some trees that look similar to what is in the video and the wood splits easily. Having said that, I think his device would split Red Oak pretty easily. Now, splitting Hickory would be interesting to see. I have a bit of Hickory, not much, but I was splitting some with the Fiskar and THAT was a WORKOUT! I had some very high heart rates. :shocked: Good work out though, and while splitting Hickory is NOT fun, it sure is nice to burn once split! :laughing::laughing::laughing:

His splitter is a great idea. Though, having one's hand that close to the splitting head is a bit worrisome...

If he had a larger spring, he could have more weight for more splitting power which he does not appear to need with that wood but it would help with something like Hickory.

Later,
Dan

 

[bacrow]

I received the Fiskars X27 in the mail last week. My first impression is that it felt light and fragile. The handle didn't seem too long.

It is light, but it is not fragile. I found the length to be about right. Granted I haven't tried the X25, but I don't know that I ever will.

This thing works great! I enjoy splitting wood, and this makes it even more fun. It easily busted up gnarly white oak logs that took forever with an axe, and I usually gave up and went to a wedge/sledge. I never switched from the Fiskars.

It's not magical, because it still wouldn't split a couple of pieces of elm that I have, or a standing dead white oak that I cut down this weekend. But it is better than any other single splitting tool I have ever used.

 

[PhysAssist]

Good call!

If my Fiskars gets stuck in wood, or if there is a tough spot, I will use a piece of split wood as a mallet to whack the back of the ax head. Works pretty good.

Later,
Dan

 

[3930dave]

Not sure if this one's been up here before...

Physics-exploiting axe splits wood in record time | News | Geek.com

Different design.... I'd need some feedback on hardwood use, before spending that kind of money.....

Rgds, D.

 

[grnspot110]

Not sure if this one's been up here before...

Physics-exploiting axe splits wood in record time | News | Geek.com

Different design.... I'd need some feedback on hardwood use, before spending that kind of money.....

Rgds, D.

Looks like it does work, at least on straight grained wood. At that price I think I'll pass though! Looks like he's splitting for "cookstove" wood. ~~ grnspot

 

[JFoy]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

 

[motownbrowne]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

I think it depends on the species. Usually I think green is best, and it dries much faster after splitting.

I just ordered a Fiskars X27 a few weeks ago. I know there's plenty of rave reviews of this maul, but I want to add mine to the list as well. For $54 delivered and with a lifetime warranty this tool is worth every penny. I also own a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul, which is much more handsome and is an incredible tool to use, but it was over 3X the price of the Fiskars. The Fiskars is great because it performs much like the Gransfors (they're still a bit different, hard to say one is better or worse), and I wouldn't worry about putting it in someone else's hands. At close to $200 and with a wooden handle, the Gransfors doesn't get handed over to just anyone.

 

[Paul Thornton]

I am a Fiskars 27 fan. I have split about 15 cord with mine and love it.

 

[RitchElbe]

The fancy shaped red axe, duplicates the skill of a good wood chopper..that being slightly tilting your axe to the side. Dad taught me that back in the 70's and I was a splitting beast for my age. But back in 2004 I ran across the Chopper1 axe and haven't looked back. It has kick out dogs that upon impact with the wood kicks in about an inch back from the edge and "kicks the force of the blow outwards pushing the wood apart" I love it and own 3.
https://youtu.be/1AmB1rF9Mlg

 

[bacrow]

Old thread but thought I'd bump it.

I just retrofitted my house house with a wood stove in the basement. Planning to build a plenum to tie it into the old oil furnace duct work.

Question is, do you find it easier to split wood when green, after a season, or when it's clearly dry?

I agree with motownbrowne in that it depends on the wood. Some species split easy when green, but I think most split easier with a little age. I don't usually let it sit a season or until it is dry, but waiting a few weeks seems to make it easier. That is usually enough time for the surface to dry and show the grain. That leads me where to strike first for the first split. It is all easier after the first split.

 

[PhysAssist]

The fancy shaped red axe, duplicates the skill of a good wood chopper..that being slightly tilting your axe to the side. Dad taught me that back in the 70's and I was a splitting beast for my age. But back in 2004 I ran across the Chopper1 axe and haven't looked back. It has kick out dogs that upon impact with the wood kicks in about an inch back from the edge and "kicks the force of the blow outwards pushing the wood apart" I love it and own 3.
https://youtu.be/1AmB1rF9Mlg

Just because I can't help being a smart a$$�, if it' s that good, why do you need three of them?

The only reason I have had 3 Fiskars, is that one got destroyed by my SWMBO using a sledgehammer to force it through a log she got it stuck in when I was disabled and couldn't split wood.

The 3rd one we bought is their heavier 4# splitting axe, and that only gets used rarely, when a particularly stubborn log happens to resist the regular axe.

Can I ask where you found that axe in the first place and how much green stuff did you spend on it (them).

I went to their website, and apparently they used to be sold at a bunch of Big Box stores like the Roebucks place and others, but were changed to a webstore only deal, and cost $89.99 (+shipping?).

The video link you posted makes it look good, but in the one on their website, the guy not only makes the effort he uses look heroic, but fails to split and gets the axe a little stuck twice.

If the pieces really keep flying out sideways, I would have to start using the technique where you put the log inside an old tire or risk getting really frustrated and worn out chasing the splits and picking them up to be resplit.

I was also going to say that the mechanism on the axe looks pretty complicated and futzy to keep operating, especially given the replacement parts they seem to think are important to also stock and offer for sale, however, compared to a hydraulic splitter with its need for oil, gas, and hydraulic fluid and regular maintenance, that would be straining at gnats.

Thanks for posting (another expensive toy I'll need to save up for and add to my arsenal.)
Thomas

 

[PhysAssist]

I agree with motownbrowne in that it depends on the wood. Some species split easy when green, but I think most split easier with a little age. I don't usually let it sit a season or until it is dry, but waiting a few weeks seems to make it easier. That is usually enough time for the surface to dry and show the grain. That leads me where to strike first for the first split. It is all easier after the first split.

Ditto, and the checking not only starts to split the wood for you and indicates weaker connections, but also indicates that the wood is seasoning well.