Splitting well line

[Valveman]

The only issue that I have had with that type of connection is that depending on the type of pressure switch you have on your system, mine has a low pressure cutout to stop the pump on low low pressure. Turning on the outside hydrant rapidly will pull water from the pressure tank and cause it to kit the low low cutoff before the pump gets pressure back into the system. So I just turn the hydrant on slowly and no issue. Part of my problem is that the house and hydrant are fed with 1 1/4" line and it's a high flow hydrant.

Those hydrants can let out enough water to make the pump system go off on low pressure. Reducing the air charge in the pressure tank about 5 PSI should stop the low pressure cut off switch from bouncing the pump off when the hydrant is opened. However, a low pressure cut off is not very good protection for a low producing well, which is why most people have them. They also cause lots of nuisance trips, like the ones you mentioned. They also usually need resetting after a power outage or after opening too many faucets.

Using a Cycle Sensor is much better protection from running the pump dry. It also will not cause nuisance trips and resets itself after a power outage.

 

[MossRoad]

I think most places require (and even if they don't, it's a good idea) to install a vacuum breaker before the irrigation system if it's also tied to potable water in the house. This prevents back flow of chemicals/contamination from the irrigation system into the house and well.

 

[LouNY]

Those hydrants can let out enough water to make the pump system go off on low pressure. Reducing the air charge in the pressure tank about 5 PSI should stop the low pressure cut off switch from bouncing the pump off when the hydrant is opened. However, a low pressure cut off is not very good protection for a low producing well, which is why most people have them. They also cause lots of nuisance trips, like the ones you mentioned. They also usually need resetting after a power outage or after opening too many faucets.

Using a Cycle Sensor is much better protection from running the pump dry. It also will not cause nuisance trips and resets itself after a power outage.

I have the low pressure safety cutoff in case of a broken line, I'm fortunate enough that it would be difficult for even my 3/4 Hp pump to pump down my well. When the kids were young and I had a pool for them I could fill the pool (24') in less then 24 hours and still have good pressure in the house. It would draw down the well about 12-15' from the casing overflow.

 

[Valveman]

I have the low pressure safety cutoff in case of a broken line, I'm fortunate enough that it would be difficult for even my 3/4 Hp pump to pump down my well. When the kids were young and I had a pool for them I could fill the pool (24') in less then 24 hours and still have good pressure in the house. It would draw down the well about 12-15' from the casing overflow.

A low pressure cut off is also not very effective to protect from a broken line either. The break must be large enough to cause the pressure to get low. Any leak less than the max flow of the pump will still cause flooding.

I use a Samsung Smarthub, an Aeotec Smart Switch, and have leak sensors all over the place. Any small leak behind a toilet, dishwasher, water heater, etc, will set off one of the leak sensors and shuts off the pump. The only nuisance trips I have had is when my Granddaughter picked up one of the leak sensors. Lol! She is finally old enough to leave them alone.

 

[steve tym]

This is pretty common in my area. It's also common to have a check valve on the tank. We remove the check valve from the tank and install one under the pitless adapter.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Had to dig up & replace a broken pitless adapter last year so I put a tee on the new adapter and installed a hydrant:

The tank is located in the barn about 200' away. I took off the check valve at the tank and it works like a champ.