Spin On Filters

[Gaowlpoop]

I am coming up on the 50 hour service on my 4540. I am concerned about getting the spin on filters off. Everything on that tractor was put together by Magilla Gorilla. (It took a 2 foot breaker bar, 3/4 inch drive, with a 3 foot pipe to take the lug nuts off.)

Can anyone give me some helpful advice on taking the spin on filters off? That's oil, fuel and hydrolic.

 

[IH782]

You should be able to get them off, if not pound of a screwdriver through the filter and use it as leverage.

 

[RNeumann]

We have the strap style that takes the 1/2" drive ratchet and the standard style as well. You want to place the wrench as close to the base (gasket end) as possible. If you get out toward the end you tend to crush the filter and render the standard wrenches less useful.

We have big enough pliers and a pipe wrench that will also get on a filter if needed. The screwdriver trick does work. However, that method will tend to tear the metal and make a mess- that's a last ditch effort I haven't used in years. Buy yourself a $40 pair of channel locks and you will have a tool that will last for years and be useful more than you think.

 

[Wagtail]

I have two different size filter wrenches for my JD 4105, both of which I bought at my JD Dealership... but only because I didn't have any and they were right there in the Parts Department.

One is the small 'band' type, which fits the oil filters on both of my rigs (4105 & D110).

The other is a large 'pliers' type, which fits the fuel filter and the hydraulic filter cap. I suppose that it might also fit the oil filter but I haven't tried. The 'pliers' type would allow you some extra purchase to undo the OEM Factory Trained Gorilla's handiwork. The only drawback to the 'pliers' type is exerting too much pressure on the new filter and crushing it. Be gentle when snugging it on.

 

[RNeumann]

I have two different size filter wrenches for my JD 4105, both of which I bought at my JD Dealership... but only because I didn't have any and they were right there in the Parts Department.

One is the small 'band' type, which fits the oil filters on both of my rigs (4105 & D110).

The other is a large 'pliers' type, which fits the fuel filter and the hydraulic filter cap. I suppose that it might also fit the oil filter but I haven't tried. The 'pliers' type would allow you some extra purchase to undo the OEM Factory Trained Gorilla's handiwork. The only drawback to the 'pliers' type is exerting too much pressure on the new filter and crushing it. Be gentle when snugging it on.

Grabbing it right at the base (gasket end) will help prevent crushing. Typically that part has the metal disc and check valve that helps stiffen the metal can. The rest of the filter is mostly soft filter media inside the thin metal can.

 

[Wagtail]

Grabbing it right at the base (gasket end) will help prevent crushing. Typically that part has the metal disc and check valve that helps stiffen the metal can. The rest of the filter is mostly soft filter media inside the thin metal can.

:thumbsup:

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Here's the deal...First...I would never drive a screwdriver thru a filter...(what if you wear out the filter and still not break it free)...Here's the real thing...no matter which filter (excluding the fuel filter), start the tractor and get it up to operating temp before you try and un-screw it..Not so much needed for gasoline engines but first time on diesels, its about mandatory. This will expand the junction of the filter and the engine..then strap wrench it. I had this issue with my 6000 back in '03. Just don't re tighten the new one past "hand tight". BobG in VA

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you drive a screw driver through the filter and STILL can't get it off, NO OTHER method will work either!!

It makes a mess, but it DOES work! I've done it more than a few times over the years, when nothing else would work...

SR

 

[Lesliel]

I have a 4530 and recently just changed all of the filters. For the oil filter I use a standard 4 inch metal band wrench. It slides up nicely on the filter and it comes off just like an auto filter. The hydraulic filter is considerably larger in diameter. To be on the safe side I took the new filter to a NAPA store and bought the largest metal band filter wrench the sold. The hydraulic filter was on pretty tight however it came off just like the oil filter. The filters are on tighter than they recommend in the service manual but they come off clockwise with a little extra effort. So far every thing that is torqued or screwed together appears to be 50 percent tighter than their specs.

 

[JD955SC]

For $10-15 apiece otc makes band wrenches that take a 1/2" drive tool. I have had to use these with a 3 ft breaker bar before to loosen very stubborn filters. I also have the biggest pair of Cobra pliers Knipex makes and have had to use them before.

For tightning filters I use a strip of Emory cloth or sandpaper for grip and just get them good and tight by hand

 

[tkevan]

Beware the spin on hydro filter. Your 4540 is the new version of my 4025. The filter may be pinched at the top rim by the mount. It made it impossible to get off, without loosening the mount bolts. Then it spun right off.

 

[TomSeller]

Tighten them until they crush and stop just before.

Actually I tighten by hand and then a smidgen more with the strap wrench.

 

[rockarosa]

I just did the 50 hour on my 4550. Engine filter came right off. When I tried the hydraulic filter it was really tight the first 3 or 4 spins. finally got it off. When I went to put the new filter on I could not get it threaded on straight. I kept trying and did not want to force it. I got to looking at the old filter and my new filter and realized that the top of the filter wear there is an outer ring was all shiny and scarred. Facing the filter the left side of the mount was rubbing the filter. I carefully took a file and filed off a 1/6th to 1/8th off and the new filter spun right on, no problem. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

[Gaowlpoop]

Beware the spin on hydro filter. Your 4540 is the new version of my 4025. The filter may be pinched at the top rim by the mount. It made it impossible to get off, without loosening the mount bolts. Then it spun right off.

Thank you tkevan that is some VERY useful information. That could save me a lot of trouble.

I have been looking at the oil filter mount and at the two bolts that hold it in place. I was wondering if it might be possiable to just take the two bolts out and remove the entire filter/mount as a unit. I have been very hesident to put a wrench on the bolts because if I broke one off I would really be in trouble. Remember Magilla Gorilla put the bolts in as well.

I have also been thinking about the mount. It is made of something other then steel, aluminum or pot metal or something. If you had the whole filter/mount assembly in a vice I can see applying enough force the break the mount.

Has anyone ever removed the oil filter mount?

Just as an aside, the filter is behind one of the main structural members for the front end loader. There is almost no room to get a wrench of any kind in there. If I could remove the mounting bolts, I would change the filter from now on by removing the mount/filter as a unit. It sure would be easier to work on in a bench vice then behind the front end loader member.

 

[truckinfouble]

The filters on my 4540 changed easy at the 50 hour. I will say the lug nuts are stupid tight and look like they put thread locker or tape on there during installation. A torque multiplier works great for lug nuts though

 

[Oldoak]

..................................................................
For tightning filters I use a strip of Emory cloth or sandpaper for grip and just get them good and tight by hand

.....................................Actually I tighten by hand and then a smidgen more with the strap wrench.

We all have our own method for tightening new spin on filters. I have a pair of gloves with little rubber dots on the palm side to prevent slipping that I use specifically just for hand tightening the new filters.

For removing filters once in a great while I will put a thin strip of sandpaper or emery cloth around the inside of the filter wrench that slips over the end of the filter if the wrench slips around the filter end instead of gipping it like it should.

Also I always loosen the filter right after shutting the engine off, but not enough to let the oil drip out. Then I allow everything too cool down before changing the filter. Much easier than trying to loosen the filter after everything is cold.

 

[tkevan]

I just did the 50 hour on my 4550. Engine filter came right off. When I tried the hydraulic filter it was really tight the first 3 or 4 spins. finally got it off. When I went to put the new filter on I could not get it threaded on straight. I kept trying and did not want to force it. I got to looking at the old filter and my new filter and realized that the top of the filter wear there is an outer ring was all shiny and scarred. Facing the filter the left side of the mount was rubbing the filter. I carefully took a file and filed off a 1/6th to 1/8th off and the new filter spun right on, no problem. Has anyone else had this problem?

Yep. Exactly what I was talking about. If you look that top ring was pinched against the mount. If you take those two bolts loose the filter will spin off just like a regular oil filter. It's a machining issue on some of the 4025/4540/4550 units. I loosened the bolts and put the filter on. Then re-tightened. There's an O-ring so no worries.

 

[PILOON]

Due to tight space I resort to a length of old seat belt and vice grips.
Wrap the belt around the filter can and clamp tight and levering the vice grips in the right direction creates a cam like effect which works every time.
Then wash that filthy oil off of everything. LOL
I keep pair of HD gloves (like used for cleaning toilet bowls) just for that chore as I always seem to tear any brand of mechanics gloves.

 

[dickfoster]

Thank you tkevan that is some VERY useful information. That could save me a lot of trouble.

I have been looking at the oil filter mount and at the two bolts that hold it in place. I was wondering if it might be possiable to just take the two bolts out and remove the entire filter/mount as a unit. I have been very hesident to put a wrench on the bolts because if I broke one off I would really be in trouble. Remember Magilla Gorilla put the bolts in as well.

I have also been thinking about the mount. It is made of something other then steel, aluminum or pot metal or something. If you had the whole filter/mount assembly in a vice I can see applying enough force the break the mount.

Has anyone ever removed the oil filter mount?

Just as an aside, the filter is behind one of the main structural members for the front end loader. There is almost no room to get a wrench of any kind in there. If I could remove the mounting bolts, I would change the filter from now on by removing the mount/filter as a unit. It sure would be easier to work on in a bench vice then behind the front end loader member.

I have a different tractor but access for all the spin-on filters on my machine, engine oil, hydro and fuel is a huge PITA. I think they must go out of the way to make service difficult to carry out because they sure didn't try to make it easy.

 

[Oldoak]

I have a different tractor but access for all the spin-on filters on my machine, engine oil, hydro and fuel is a huge PITA. I think they must go out of the way to make service difficult to carry out because they sure didn't try to make it easy.

New cars and trucks are even worse to access. I think the auto manufacturers purposely design them that way so the average weekend mechanic will take them back to the dealers for even the most routine servicing.