Spark arrester cleaning

[Smokeydog]

Interested how folks are cleaning their spark arrester mufflers Owners manual says every 250 hours.

2016 B26 has a simple cone screen attached to the tailpipe with one screw. Cleaned it a couple of times. The screen being about 20-30% plugged. The screen was an option (~$70) and I guess was required in some USDA Forrest dry fire prone areas. At 400hrs decided to leave it off. Did attach a short piece of tail pipe to let the exhaust better clear the tractor.

2013 M59. Manual gives two options to clean/service internal spark arrester.
A) Remove cleanout plug, use industrial vacuum, use sympathetic vibration (hammer without damage) to remove soot, condensate, oil.
B) Remove muffler and beat (gently) the soot out. Hope this is not the preferred method for these tractors.
Tractor has 1300hrs and pretty sure none of this maintenance has ever been done. Runs fine. I’m guessing blockage would reduce power. How much stuff comes out?

 

[Captain Dirty]

Interested how folks are cleaning their spark arrester mufflers Owners manual says every 250 hours. <snip>
pretty sure none of this maintenance has ever been done. Runs fine. I遏･ guessing blockage would reduce power. How much stuff comes out?

Its a long story . . .
The L45 has a cylindrical, spark arresting muffler. Internal vanes impart a swirl that supposedly throws heavier, burning particles (sparks) to cylindrical wall, and spark free exhaust gasses exit the center of the far end. 250-hr maintenance as described above.

The plug had a square, 7 mm head. Time and probably corrosive exhaust had provided a good threadlocker. I spread the jaws of my 7 mm open end wrench even with applications of PB Blaster. There was insufficient clearance for a socket and ratchet head or breaker bar between the bottom of the muffler and the alternator. No problem, I have one of those pass-thru style ratchet heads, and the 5/16 universal (splined) socket did not turn when I slipped it over the 7 mm square head. The socket quickly buggered the corners of the square head. I finally did get the plug out using heat and a bolt extractor.

My (print) parts manual does not even show the presence of a plug on the muffler; parts guy at dealer confirmed his parts diagram didn't show one either. When I asked the service dept. they did not know what maintenance I was talking about. (It is the last line at the bottom of the page of the service intervals list.)

After I got the plug out I put a white rag on the alternator, rapped the muffler with a rubber mallet, sucked at the hole with a shop vacuum, and got nothing. Perhaps the service department knew it was futile or unnecessary.

The plug thread was 1/4 NPT so I bought a 3/8 square head brass plug at a hardware store, slathered the threads with nickel never-sieze and have another 60 hrs before the next service. If the plug doesn't turn I will forget about it.

 

[Frankenkubota]

Funny, ive got a new kubota tractor but Im also on the kubota rtv forum. I bought a used and abused 2015 1140. That’s the big one with a back seat. Mine has been heavily modified hence my forum name, Frankenkubota. I cleaned the spark arrester yesterday and posted some pics. I was confused...what’s new...couldn’t find my post. Wrong forum.

I though I’d post these just for reference.

 

[Smokeydog]

Its a long story . . .
The L45 has a cylindrical, spark arresting muffler. Internal vanes impart a swirl that supposedly throws heavier, burning particles (sparks) to cylindrical wall, and spark free exhaust gasses exit the center of the far end. 250-hr maintenance as described above.

The plug had a square, 7 mm head. Time and probably corrosive exhaust had provided a good threadlocker. I spread the jaws of my 7 mm open end wrench even with applications of PB Blaster. There was insufficient clearance for a socket and ratchet head or breaker bar between the bottom of the muffler and the alternator. No problem, I have one of those pass-thru style ratchet heads, and the 5/16 universal (splined) socket did not turn when I slipped it over the 7 mm square head. The socket quickly buggered the corners of the square head. I finally did get the plug out using heat and a bolt extractor.

My (print) parts manual does not even show the presence of a plug on the muffler; parts guy at dealer confirmed his parts diagram didn't show one either. When I asked the service dept. they did not know what maintenance I was talking about. (It is the last line at the bottom of the page of the service intervals list.)

After I got the plug out I put a white rag on the alternator, rapped the muffler with a rubber mallet, sucked at the hole with a shop vacuum, and got nothing. Perhaps the service department knew it was futile or unnecessary.

The plug thread was 1/4 NPT so I bought a 3/8 square head brass plug at a hardware store, slathered the threads with nickel never-sieze and have another 60 hrs before the next service. If the plug doesn't turn I will forget about it.

Wow! That’s the kind of information I was wanting and hoping for. For the M59 might not be worth trying to remove the cleanout plug. I get a puff of black smoke on cold startup. Runs clean and strong. This type of spark arrester muffler doesn’t have screen to plug is helpful. Like you my dealer at first didn’t understand what I was talking about, but if the service manual says to do it for me to bring it in and they will take care of it. Yup! At $125/hr. Must not be a common problem.

 

[5030]

Took the one out of my 650 KLR one time, was a PITA and never again. There was nothing on it to speak of.

 

[mikester]

I find non lubricating carb cleaner works well for cleaning chainsaw spark arrest screens.will clean and dry what the vacuum doesnt get

 

[Captain Dirty]

[Balky muffler plug removal] Must not be a common problem.

Probably only owing to the infrequency with which it is attempted.

 

[Fallon]

Odd slightly related question... Does a DPF qualify or act as a spark arrestor? It's a very fine filter, finer than most spark arrestor screens I've seen, on one hand. But on the other it heats up really toasty to do the regen.

 

[Smokeydog]

Odd slightly related question... Does a DPF qualify or act as a spark arrestor? It's a very fine filter, finer than most spark arrestor screens I've seen, on one hand. But on the other it heats up really toasty to do the regen.

Spark arresters and maintenance plans have to be tested and approved by the USDA is my understanding. That’s why that $1 screen on my B26 costs $70. Imagine the cost increase to your DPF?
Understand their purpose. Just trying to figure out their maintenance.

 

[Captain Dirty]

UPDATE

Since the saga in post #2, I have put another 250 hours on the L45.
The nickel never-seize did its job; this time the plug loosened with moderate pressure on a 3/8 wrench. The recess in the plug was partially filled with dry particles of soot (large, dark patch near the plug). When I rapped the muffler some more black dust fell (the smaller patch near the middle). I put a clean rag over the hose of my shop vac before attaching the nozzle, but I clumsily sucked some flakes into the vac and further disturbed the flakes when staging the picture. The total amount of soot was certainly minimal. (What might be taken as oil stains on the L rag are floral prints on the former bedsheet. No liquid was found.)

Spark arresters and maintenance plans have to be tested and approved by the USDA is my understanding. <snip>

I suspect the spark arresting muffler addition and service instructions were an afterthought to comply with the USDA and secure the North American market. My suspicion is based on the absence of the part in the parts manual and the slightly different style of the muffler maintance instructions as if they were written to satisfy USDA bureaucrats.