Source for pins and bushings

[JRP]

Lots of posts here show bolts instead of pins and bushings for joints on projects. I would think pins with zerks and proper grease clearance would be better.

I decided I like machines and am looking for a product and was thinking about getting a lathe and making pins and bushings.

If I had a standard size ranges and prices, would any of you consider purchasing pins and bushings instead of using bolts? Bushings seem harder to find, and using custom made from a machine shop could get expensive.

What do you think?

 

[Baby Grand]

Sounds interesting - I would be very interested in having an assortment of std size, lubed pins and matching bushings to select from for any project that will have heavily loaded pivots.
-Jim

 

[David Devuono]

I buy mine from Princess Auto up in Canada. I would pay something like $7 for a 5 inch long 1"bore weldable bushing with a hole for a grease fitting and the pins are about the same for a 1"x 6" pin. I used their 8"x 1 1/4" bushing and Pin for the boom on my back hoe. I doubt you could make them and ship them for $7 each. I'd still buy the lathe but you don't want to work for $2/hr.

 

[David Devuono]

Correction, I am using cross tube cylinder ends as bushings.
Accessories | Cylinders | Hydraulics | Princess Auto

 

[Ford tractor]

That's just common DOM tubing. Your paying 5x for it being pre-cut and having one drilled / tapped hole. Of course, that price differential is gone if you only need one section.

 

[Farmerford]

Most (all?) the DOM tubing I purchase has an inner diameter that is a few thousandths of an inch smaller than nominal. If the pin is dead on its nominal diameter (and most are), then the pin will not slide into the tubing.

Depending on the size of the tubing and how accurate I want to be (or how lazy I am), I either drill, bore, or hone it to size. If the tubing is to be welded in place, a final hone is usually required to offset the shrinkage in welding, unless there was quite a bit of clearance to start with.

I have found that 25mm pins work pretty good with 1" nominal ID DOM tubing. The fit is a bit looser than if I were starting with a 1" pin, but it sure saves a lot of time.

I also frequently use phosphor bronze pins if the bushing is welded, since the pins suffer most of the wear and replacing the pin is much easier than replacing the bushing. Phosphor bronze is in the strength range of 1045 cold rolled rod, and not that much more expensive.

 

[Ford tractor]

Yep, most DOM is tight to too small as bought. Not having a fancy shop full of tools, the old "creative way" has been to take an 8" long 1/2" bolt, saw it 2"down the length of the threads, cut the head off and then wind sand paper on it grit out. I start with it a little too tight to fit the hole and it will wind down tighter and snugly fit as it sands the inside of the tube. Adding some extra into the wound paper increases the diameter to keep it tight. Not fancy, but it has my 2 favorite features - cheap and effective. It does take the larger drill to spin it, but it works wonders.

 

[JRP]

Thanks David

I'll think of another reason to rationalize a lathe. I learned more about bushing in the past two minutes than from hours of thinking about them.

 

[dcyrilc]

Thanks David

I'll think of another reason to rationalize a lathe. I learned more about bushing in the past two minutes than from hours of thinking about them.

It seems to me that you already have the two most important reasons to get a lathe worked out.

1) They're cool.
2) You want one.


On a side note: If you do get one, be careful. They can be really dangerous if not used with safety put first. I've seen some pictures that can make a person think twice about using one.

 

[apatche1964]

Ive been reading about the bushing material on the forum I have a dumb question On my mini ex i need to tighten up the pins and bushings but my machine doesnt seem to have bushings on the bucket and boom the pins just go tru the frame. Do you cut out enough to weld new bushings in?

 

[lostcause]

Thanks David

I'll think of another reason to rationalize a lathe. I learned more about bushing in the past two minutes than from hours of thinking about them.

having the ability to make them is still number one when it comes to time and availability. if i break something and need it repaired now, paying myself $2 an hour to make a part beats waiting a few days on shipping. if you have a place close that stocks it all, then it's not as cut and dry of a decision. not to mention a lathe will cost you a fee hundred to a few thousand, but it's also a lifetime purchase, like any other tool you have for the shop. it may end up paying for itself with convenience, not necessarily volume.

 

[dcyrilc]

Thanks David

I'll think of another reason to rationalize a lathe. I learned more about bushing in the past two minutes than from hours of thinking about them.

How about low cost? Found this site yesterday, but didn't have the link at home.

Public Surplus: Search an auction

Some of these lathes are going pretty cheap.

 

[Stampeder]

Bought my Enco 10X24 lathe for $350.00 complete with brand new motor and stand. It needs a little TLC but that's the project for this winter. There are deals out there to be had just need a little patience.
Go for the lathe. You will not be unhappy that you did.:thumbsup:
For practise get some PVC and use it. It machines easily, costs next to nothing and is very safe, plus it's easy on tools.:thumbsup:
Now that I have my lathe, I'm looking for a Bridgeport mill.......it never stops.

 

[silverado15000]

To answer the original question McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com is a great source for all kinds of mechanical, electrical, hydraulic and pneumatic parts including pins and bushings. We use them all the time at the machine shop where I work.