3-Point Hitch Sorry another logsplitter question

[upnorth21]

Hi All, looked on here 45 minutes to find my answer,and wasn't satisfied, have a JD2720 year 2010 or 2011 and want to add on a logspiltter to the 3 pt , sounds like I need a diverter valve , rear hydraulics,or some type of logsplitter valve. Really confused on what I need. Have a buddy that put on a diverter valve and cost him over $1000 for valve and installation, I am a do-it yourselfer so to speak , but want it done correctly, any help would be greatly appreciated to set me on the straight and narrow. And also any logsplitter size recommendations would be great too, for this size tractor.

 

[Ted Summey]

How many gal/minute is your tractor pump? It may be more cost effective and make a faster splitter to use a PTO hydraulic pump with a 3 pt hitch log splitter. But that will depend on the capacity of your tractor pump. Use of the PTO pump requires a reservoir and the hoses. Even with all that it should be doable for less than 1000 but that is in addition to the cost of the splitter.

 

[L355SS]

If your loader valve has power beyond then you can run a hose from pb out (loader valve) to your splitter valve. That works ok for my home made splitter.
Dennis

 

[greg_g]

Do you have no hydraulics at all on the tractor other than the three point hitch?

Your pump has a 5.0 gpm flow rate at 2421 psi. My 3720 has a 6.8 gpm flow at 2500 psi. I use a SpeeCo with a 4x24 cylinder, and - suits me but - some folks might think it's a little slow behind my John Deere. Given that splitting force (tons) and cycle time is determined by cylinder size & PSI, you might want to shop for something with a smaller cylinder. Not necessarily shorter, just smaller diameter. The smaller the cylinder the faster your 5 gpm will cycle it.

//greg//

 

[adirondackmtnman]

Hi All, looked on here 45 minutes to find my answer,and wasn't satisfied, have a JD2720 year 2010 or 2011 and want to add on a logspiltter to the 3 pt , sounds like I need a diverter valve , rear hydraulics,or some type of logsplitter valve. Really confused on what I need. Have a buddy that put on a diverter valve and cost him over $1000 for valve and installation, I am a do-it yourselfer so to speak , but want it done correctly, any help would be greatly appreciated to set me on the straight and narrow. And also any logsplitter size recommendations would be great too, for this size tractor.

I've always been of the opinion that rather than running up the hours and burning the fuel on the tractor, it's better to buy a stand-alone splitter with it's own engine and pump. Those are a lot cheaper to replace/rebuild on a self contained splitter than the engine/pump on the tractor, and more economical to run, especially at today's fuel prices. The smaller Speeco units at Tractor Supply are pretty darn reasonable price wise, and in my experience, also very reliable. I've had my 35 ton, 12.5 hp for 6 years and countless cords of wood through it. Besides oil, gas, plugs, and a seal kit for the cylinder, I've had zero issues. Just my $.02 and may not work for your situation, but it's always suited me better.

 

[greg_g]

Well, everybody's entitled to an opinion. Mine is that - besides costing considerably less - a three point splitter requires only slightly above zero maintenance AND represents one less small engine on the place. I've got enough to do just maintaining mowers/chainsaws/generators/trimmers and the like. Forget tractor hours, they're nothing more than main than maintenance countdown markers. As far as tractor wear & tear, it's negligible. Mine just sits there at barely half throttle, doing nothing more than pushing hydraulic fluid. It's me and the splitter that are doing all the work

//greg//

 

[upnorth21]

Going to try to answer all . First trying to reduce the number of engines I have to take care each fall thats why I am preferring a 3 pt. The tractor does have a FEL on it so there is the 4 hydraulic hoses going to it. (right side as you are sitting on the tractor.) As far as the gpm have to take your word for the 5gpm flow rate can't seem to find it in my book unless I am looking in the wrong spot. The $1000 that my buddy spent was so he could run a lime trailer behind it, so not sure if that ran up the cost. But I am kinda looking for a list of what I would need to run a logsplitter, not trying to win a lumberjack days event in fastest logsplitting. I did my time when I was a teenager in the hand splitting department.

 

[J_J]

upnorth21 ,

Hydraulics:
Type: open center
Pressure: 2421 psi [166.9 bar]
Valves: 2
Pump flow: 5.0 gpm [18.9 lpm]
Total flow: 10.5 gpm [39.7 lpm]
Steering flow: 5.5 gpm [20.8 lpm]


You should have about average speed on the log splitter, depends on your ability.

Several ways to do that/hookup.

You could use the curl hose form the loader and run extension to the back.

You probably have a PB port off the side of the tractor, or need an adapter to feed a line to the back for the log splitter input. The log splitter OUT port could go directly to tank or ren bact to the other port in the adapter and that will feed the 3pt.

The log splitter probably does not have a PB port, so the log splitter valve could be at some risk if using the 3pt with the log splitter using the 3pt path.

You would be more safe to dump the OUT from the log splitter directly to tank.

Do you have any more questions.

 

[greg_g]

The tractor does have a FEL on it so there is the 4 hydraulic hoses going to it. (right side as you are sitting on the tractor.)

Ok. Cuz you can use one set of those connectors to power the splitter until you get around to adding PB in the rear. One set (lift/lower) is associated with forward/backward motion of the loader joystick, the other set (bucket curl) with side to side motion of the joystick. Select the lift/lower set, disconnect the loader lines, connect the splitter lines, start the engine. Then use something (bungee cord) to hold the joystick either all the way forward or all the way back. Alteratively select the curl set, and tie the joystick one direction to the side. You're now ready to split. The downside is that the loader is partially disabled while the splitter is connected. But it works in a pinch.

//greg//

 

[lwalsh]

LVB25603 power beyond kit $393.25

the kit has hoses and fittings to tap into the two ports on the bottom side of the loader valve. A bracket that bolts to the rops crossmember and a jumper hose to complete the circuit when not in use. I believe there was also a pipe plug I had to insert between the valve ports to close the internal valve loop. Took me an hour or two to install on my 2720.

I built my own 3pt splitter and used a valve I don't remember the no. but JJ has given the no. in other posts. but on the foreward stroke it has two positions and travels very fast in position one because it is pushing fluid to both sides of the cylinder. I have a 4 in. cyl. and the return is pretty slow but it's fast enough for me. I think about 15 sec. for a 24" stroke.