Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow Rookie

[KTurner]

I'm in southeast VA, where we were just smacked with the biggest snowfall in over two decades. Last year we had significantly more snow than normal, and this year we had four snowfalls before the first day of winter (five so far).

Once last year, and for this past 12"+ snowfall, I hooked the rear blade to the tractor and worked on clearing the 500ft private driveway (~350ft is paved). Some of the time everything lined up just right, and snow would discharge from the end of the blade, but most of the time the snow just piled up between the blade and the tractor, dragging a big pile down the driveway (making things worse). It's an old 6ft blade. The only adjustment I can see (on the blade itself) is to change the angle (parallel to the rear axle, or 4 other settings, 2 in each direction). There's also the 3ph settings. How do you setup a rear blade for snow removal? Should I remove the rust, paint and/or wax the blade to help the snow slide across it?

Also, what's the thought on removing ice on public roads? About 100 ft from the top of our driveway is a very sharp curve (90 degree bend), which, from looking at the tracks in the snow, at least four vehicles have slid through in the past two days. About five years ago, someone slid through the curve and knocked down the utility pole, resulting in no electricity for this area on a very cold night. Right now, the curve is 2" of ice and in the shade. The local govt hasn't touched this road with anything (snow plow/salt/sand/etc), and the snow stopped two days ago. I don't see a rear blade doing any good here. Is there something I can put down (other than a bonfire) to help keep people from sliding through the curve?

Thanks
Keith

 

[Egon]

Cleaning the rear blade surface will help. Some folks spray Pam on their snowblower chutes to make things slippery.

If you have a front bucket have you tried that?

Call your local authorities before doing anything on a public road.

 

[wetstuff]

Kieth - I learned a trick when living in Wisconsin. The State plow buries your drive entry with a bow-wave of snow off a massive front blade. You need to drag the snow off the road, of about 100' or more, to the left of your entry.

About that curve, for your self-preservation, I'd do it. Help old ladies, but help yourself first. Who could possibly object!? ..the contractor the county hires? Besides the way snow blows - it's not like they will find the business card you left for them.

Last winter (remember the big ones in DC) I only had a Furgeson 40 (1957) with no chains and baldish tires .. and 900' to clear to get out to a road that is almost never plowed 'till the next day. The only thing I would suggest, don't drop the blade all the way down to the deck. Do half the depth at a time - and do it at speed. Angle the **** out of the blade: watch it fly. I probably had to drag the lane at least 4X in each storm. Don't wait 'till the snow stops. Stay ahead of it.

Jim/Salisbury MD

... I got a small J-D with proper blade off a Jeep about 6wks ago.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not sure what type of tractor you have but I have found speed is king. I used my FEL and 7' rear blade and before that a 6' blade behind my 4x4 Jinma 28 HP tractor. Weight on the tractor will also help with the speed, I am at 5,600#.

I now run a 7' Meyer snow plow in place of my bucket on my tractor and run about 7-8 mph when pushing snow. I actually run with the snow plow down and the rear grader blade also. I can move 12" of snow off a 400' drive in 2 passes and about 5 minutes.

Chris

 

[JDGreenGrass]

A tip I would add is.....When you angle the blade it changes the "tilt" angle. Find the angle that works best for you and then "flatten" the blade to parallel or, on plane with your rear tires. Your 3pt. hitch should have adjustment for tilt.

Try to keep your blade clean with a wipe of clothe and a light oil. I have used the cooking oil Pam on my walk=behind blower and certainly helped.

 

[hawkeye08]

I second the staying ahead of it comment. I am in my first year with my Kubota (Gravely riders with snowblower, blade, loader previous years) using my FEL. It goes fairly fast, just scoop and dump in pile when I can't push it more until I get to the end, then scoop across to clear the end piles, seems to work well.

We got 15-20", several deep drifts, one about 7' (that I do not have to clear). We had rain and almost 40 degree weather the last few days before the snow started early this morning. It was right at 32 degrees and snowed most of the day.

I need to move things around in the shop so I can put the back blade on and give it a try. I need to pick up a piece of pipe (will ABS work?).

 

[randy41]

i have a ford 1710 with 4wd...no FEL. when the snow is > 10" or so i need to run my tractor backwards with the blade turned around. even then there's a limit to what i can push without having to push the accumulated pile off to the side. my driveway is exposed to the wind so i try to push the snow to the opposite side that the wind blows from. otherwise the snow i pile up on that side acts like a snow fence and deposits a drift right on my driveway.

 

[KTurner]

The tractor is a Ford 3230, 2wd, no FEL, with filled rear tires. Weight is abt 4,500lbs, plus whatever is in the rear tires. I don't remember the size of the tires, but total weight should be well over 5,000 (not including the 6' rear blade).

I'll do some work on the rear blade - wire wheel to remove the rust and then put a couple coats of paint on it. I guess I need to find some blue to match the tractor . Next time the snow starts falling, I'll get out earlier, spray some pam on the blade and go faster.

Thanks for all the tips.
Keith

 

[Bill Hoffman]

I run a 7' landpride rear blade on my B7800. Angle it to one side, and the
snow should roll right off. Speed is important. I replaced both vertical
links on the 3 pt hitch with chain. This allows the blade to follow the
contours of the drive without digging in regardless of what the tractor
is doing. The rigid links are of no use in this application, there's no down
force applied by the 3 pt other than the weight of the plow. The chains
allow the blade to move up and down according to the contours of the
driveway. There's no sideways motion because the 3 pt won't move side-
to-side unless the check chains are loose.

You adjust the aggressiveness of the cut by adjusting the top link. Shorter top
link will result is a less aggressive cut, longer top link adjustment will give
a more aggressive cut.

Normally when you change the angle of the plow the fixed links make the plow
"tilt" and no longer stay parallel with the surface you're plowing. Using the vertical
chain set-up keeps this from happening.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[tcartwri]

The key to working with heavy wet snow, is to not wait for it to settle. Get out there and clear it several times during the storm.