Snow Snow blower chute deflector

Anonymous Poster · Nov 14, 2001

Does anyone have experience with the hydraulic chute deflector for the bx2750 snow blower? Is it something I can install myself? The manual makes it look easy enough except that it says "Attach the hydraulic hoses supplied by the dealer. Where do they go and what controls them?

bildud

pcmem · Nov 14, 2001

Bildud,

I haven't actually installed the hydraulic deflector but looked into a hydraulic rotator. I've also read the manual you speak of. It doesn't look to be too difficult to install. You'll need to drill the holes for the cylinder attachment points. The hydraulic lines, from your dealer or elsewhere, would attach to the 4way valve using the opposite axis as the quick hitch lift. It would be really nice if Kubota would make a cylinder control to be mounted in the open slot in the right fender. That could be used for the quick hitch, chute deflector, or top link. I'd like it for the quick hitch so the entire loader could be removed w/o need to disconnect the arm and ram on the right side.

In the mean time I'm investigating the electric rotator as the hydraulic isn't available as there is no place to have it and the chute deflector connected.

The electric options are more inexpensive as well.

Good luck,
Michael

huckflynn · Nov 14, 2001

I asked the dealer about the electric chute deflector -- ballpark $350. I adjusted the chute three times last year. At that price I'll stay manual.

The rotator might be nice -- any idea of a price?

woodstock · Nov 14, 2001

I'll take pics of my electric shute equipment and post them tomorrow.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (65 hrs)

scruffy · Nov 14, 2001

Woodstock, I object!!! Since when is TBN an X-rated site?

Pks · Nov 15, 2001

Apparently winter is settling in way up north and Woodstock is trying to stay warm.

pcmem · Nov 15, 2001

Woodstock,

I'd be interested in seeing the pics. I'm toying with building my own. I've got an old wiper motor thinking the two speed would be nice but then my father offered an old power window motor with plenty of torque. In looking at the manual they show a different rotator spiral screw, apparently longer than the manual one I have. Not sure why that should matter. Once I get some time to figure out the drive coupling (probably by spring /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif) I'll post the outcome.

Thanks,
Michael

woodstock · Nov 15, 2001

Here she is, the electric shute rotator.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (65 hrs)

woodstock · Nov 15, 2001

Here is her good side.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (65 hrs)

huckflynn · Nov 15, 2001

What did that addition run you? And did the dealer install it - or did you? And where is the actuator located?

It looks like a nice, clean install.

woodstock · Nov 15, 2001

Here is the actuator switch just to the left of the key switch. It is a self centering two way toggle, up or down to rotate it one way or the other. Notice it is covered in rubber so your tongue won't stick to it.

Winnipeg, Manitoba

2001 BX2200 (65 hrs)

pcmem · Nov 16, 2001

Woodstock,

Thanks much for the pics!

Michael

Anonymous Poster · Nov 21, 2001

Just to wrap this up, I was told by Carver that the hydraulic chute deflector control is not available. They also quoted $406 for the electric version. I emailed Kubota from their own site asking about the hydraulic setup, but they never replied.

Woodstock, thanks for the pictures. I may end up with the electric control.

Huckflynn, I really need to direct the snow stream up and down. When I plow near the house, I can't just throw it up into the sky like I do on the driveway. Besides, when the wind is fishtailing around, it's nice to lay the stream down on the ground rather than up to blow back on me.

pcmem · Jan 10, 2002

A BIG THANK YOU! to Woodstock for the pics and info on his factory chute rotator. I finished my homemade copy last month but have been too busy to post pics. I'll attempt to do that now /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif. I took a power wiper motor and power window motor out of a junked car. Both seemed to be feasable to the application but I picked the window motor as it was faster rotating (and I can get identical spares /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ).

pcmem · Jan 10, 2002

Here is a pic of the mounting bracket. This was the trickest part. After I unbolted the factory hand crank ujoint assembly I made some tagboard cutouts to use as a template. Then I did some measuring and refreshed my trig skills to get the mount centered on axis. After doing this I see why the manual calls out a different (shorter) actuator leadscrew and mount (look at the pics woodstock posted). I then cut the metal on a bandsaw, formed it up, marked and drilled the holes. After a quick fitup and test I removed it for painting and final assembly. I only painted the mounting bracket and left the motor assembly as it came out of the car. Here's a picture of the mount as seen from the front.

You can also see the blue and black power wires running across the quick hitch lines.

pcmem · Jan 10, 2002

I then copied Woodstocks install of the control switch. I picked up a DPDT momentary switch and rubber weather cap at the local Farm & Fleet along with an inline fuse holder, heat shrink tubing, and some cable guard to match and cleanup the install. I put 4 wires in the cable guard and fished it through the hole in the firewall Kubota used. Two wires are for the chute rotator and the two extra are for a light I've considered adding but haven't yet so they are taped off.

I then soldered up the batt lead to fuse, fuse to one common on the switch. Next was the ground to the other common on the switch. Finally the two wires from the motor get connected to one each of the switch contacts on one end, then bridged and crossed to the switch contact on the other end. This basically causes the 12V DC to reverse polarity when switched from one side to the other thereby reversing the motor. Everything tested out okay so I went looking for a mounting location.

Shining a light under the dash I found some interesting things. First off there are two square knockouts moulded in the plastic next to the switch. I picked one and drilled a hole for the switch (since it needs a round mount). Installed the switch and cap. Here's a pic but it isn't nearly as nice as woodstocks (I need a digital camera /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ).

On a side note I noticed a second set of dash lights under the existing ones. A couple of signals and a temp all without lights but this got me to thinking there should be a hydrostatic temp sender that uses the blue/white wire under the seat and goes to where the temp light indicator is. This is just my speculation and may be for the european models. Maybe worth its own thread sometime.

Well that's all there was to it. Again thanks to Woodstock for the pics to get me going.

Later days,
Michael

huckflynn · Jan 10, 2002

I don't know about everybody else -- but I'm very much impressed!/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif And how does everything work? Have you put her through the mill under stress conditions?

Charliebrn · Jan 10, 2002

Awesome post! Just the kind of stuff I love this site for!

pcmem · Jan 14, 2002

huckflynn,

It works very slick (I even impressed myself /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ). It's designed that by removing the two mounting bolts and single bolt on the screw and replacing them I could return to the factory manual method. No need to do that so far /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif .

I'm playing around with a plastic soft cab of sorts for snowblowing and the power rotator simplified the cab design. No need to access the chute crank on the right side. I hope to be able to close in the right side around the joystick and only have a door on the left. If I could find a control valve to fill the empty slot on the right of the BX I'd hook that up to the quick hitch and leave the joystick with the loader.

Thanks,
Michael