Small saw quest

[stuckmotor]

I went into the Echo store to look at a small light saw. The salesman was very nice but kept showing me larger saws and got me interested in one I could use to saw lumber. I ended up with with an 88cc Husquvarna, bought from another dealer. If that Echo dealer had pushed what I asked him about, he'd probably have made a sale.

 

[ericm979]

My Stihl, Echo and Husky dealer steers people away from large saws. I had to insist I wanted a 362 and a 24" bar. They sell to a lot of professional yard maintenance people and if they think you're just a homeowner they assume you don't need much saw. Which is probably correct most of the time.

The 24" bar turned out to be too long for the 362 even though Stihl says it works. The oiler can't quite keep up and it puts the balance too far out. After dealing with the one tree I needed the 24" for I went back for an 18". That's a little short in hind sight. I think 20" would be perfect. I use the 24" on a used MS460 that I got, and a 32" for really big trees.

 

[hslogger]

I think the Stihl ms170 is an outstanding small saw for small non professional use.
They come with an eighteen inch bar. I buy them with a Sixteen inch bar, change the drive sprocket to free floating at purchase.
It's not the size of the wand but the magic behind it.

I have run large and small saws of all colors and think you can't beat this little rascal for the money. I use it in the orchard, and hang it on my three point chipper for handy use.

 

[yomax4]

Sold my Stihl 018. I love my 026 Pro with 20" bar for limbing. 039 is go to and 044 is the wood pig for me.

 

[dougtrr2]

I have a Stihl 032 for the big stuff and a Stihl M200t top handle for the little stuff. I am well aware the the precautions when using a top handle saw, but I love the balance and feel of the saw. I actually use it more than the big one.

Doug in SW IA

 

[dfkrug]

I am well aware the the precautions when using a top handle saw, but I love the
balance and feel of the saw. I actually use it more than the big one.

Those who have never tried a tophandle saw are really missing out. It is true that these saws are intended for
pros, but so are the best small-to-midsized saws. Having ONLY a tophandle saw makes no sense, just like having
ONLY a large saw, IMO.

I have more treework to do than most "amateurs", but I am surely no logger or arborist. I have everything from
limbing to massive 135' firs to deal with, and the best tool for each job really applies. I use 5 sizes of saws
regularly: 40V electric polesaw (Greenworks 8"), 34cc tophandle saw (Tanaka 12"), 37cc small saw (Shindaiwa 18"), 55cc
large saw (455/24" Rancher), and 100cc mega-saw (Husky 2100 36"). I used to have an ancient Homelite tophandle
saw on my tractor at all times.

Tho the Rancher 455 does not really have the power for a 24" bar fully in the cut, the additional reach is a plus.

My 37cc pro saw gets the most use. The older I get, the more I want to use the right-sized saw. Ergonomics is even
more important in your old age.

Unlike some others on TBN, I have no problems with the occasional home user buying a cheap Poulan 3816 saw. These
entry-level saws can be fine if cared for, but note the missing vibration-absorbing feature. Using these saws for
extended use can cause nerve damage. I suspect the vibration-absorbing feature was a pro feature when it came out.

 

[bullbreaker]

I own a ms 291 stihl just for occasional use . Sometimes I see the Tanaka's top handles go way down in price .Any one actually own one or care to comment ? https://www.amazon.com/Tanaka-TCS33...id=1544230021&sr=8-3&keywords=tanaka+chainsaw

Looks like the bar is just held on by one bolt and nut . I think I heard somewhere new reg Tanaka saws are Hitachi , but are the top handle Tanaka's true Tanaka's cause they are top handle design . Any comments on them ? I was looking for a different review / opinion besides Amazon .

 

[dfkrug]

My Tanaka tophandle is the TCS3401, one of the earlier ones still made in Japan. Later ones,
China, tho still good saws I hear. Light and easy to handle, with thumb support and adjustable oil
pump.

I also have an older Stihl 019T tophandle that I refurbished. It works well, too, but is heavier
and a bit clunkier than the Tanaka. Also only one bar bolt.

 

[bullbreaker]

Thanks dfkrug ! :thumbsup:

 

[Jchonline]

Check out the Echo CS-271T. I looked at this and the Stihl. Didn’t buy either but the Echo would be my choice....and I own 2 other Stihl saws and like them.

 

[wwdiii]

I’ve always wondered why one has to be a pro/arborist to use a top handle saw!

 

[goeduck]

I have had a top handle Stihl saw for about 5 years that I use for limbing but I am thinking about getting an MS241 instead. The top handles are great to use but dangerous as well. The hand placement does not allow much control if your tip bites and kicks at high chain speed.

 

[John_Mc]

... The top handles are great to use but dangerous as well. The hand placement does not allow much control if your tip bites and kicks at high chain speed.

Which is exactly why they push them as "pro-only" saws. With your hands so close together, you do not have the control you do on a regular, rear-handle saw. (Not too mention the fact that people are really tempted to run them one-handed. Sometimes, an arborist has no choice, but they are hoping they've had the experience and training to deal with that safely.)

 

[dfkrug]

Which is exactly why they push them as "pro-only" saws. With your hands so close together, you do not have the control you do on a regular, rear-handle saw. (Not too mention the fact that people are really tempted to run them one-handed. Sometimes, an arborist has no choice, but they are hoping they've had the experience and training to deal with that safely.)

That is well-stated, John.

I was just up on my slopes using my Tanaka yesterday. (Yeah, one-handed.) It is definitely a special-purpose saw, and those who have only one saw should get a conventional rear-handle saw of about 35-45cc. Of course, just my opinion....I could be wrong.....

Kick-back can be an issue whenever one uses the tip of the bar, but tophandle saws DO have small engines, so their inertia is less than bigger saws. The most dangerous saws for kickback are big-engine saws with short bars, IMO.

 

[Ritothebull]

I have a top handle Tanaka I use for small stuff and that little thing will really cut the macaroni, it starts easy as well even after its been sitting for months. Like any other tool that can hurt you just make sure you know how to use it properly.

 

[goeduck]

That is well-stated, John.

I was just up on my slopes using my Tanaka yesterday. (Yeah, one-handed.) It is definitely a special-purpose saw, and those who have only one saw should get a conventional rear-handle saw of about 35-45cc. Of course, just my opinion....I could be wrong.....

Kick-back can be an issue whenever one uses the tip of the bar, but tophandle saws DO have small engines, so their inertia is less than bigger saws. The most dangerous saws for kickback are big-engine saws with short bars, IMO.

The little saws can run higher rpms than the bigger saws so the chain tip speed on a top handle can be very fast, combined with the two (or worse yet one) hands being side by side (little leverage) can make the saw pivot the bar to the operator in a flash. I have one I use for limbing but may be retiring it to special use and get an MS241.

 

[PILOON]

I'm the luck one as I have a Stihl 009, nice top handle. (LOL, paid $35 at a pawnbroker 4 it)
So light that I can use it one handed.

Chatting with a local arborist, he offered to do a straight trade for a 3 month old Jonsered saw that sells in the $300 + range.
LOL, I still have it! That little bugger is just the greatest limbing saw!
I have cut to length 6-8" maple and birch for firewood with no sweat.
Maybe it helps that I know how to file my chains!
Note I also have a big powerful Jonsered but prefer that little guy for most chores.

 

[goeduck]

I'm the luck one as I have a Stihl 009, nice top handle. (LOL, paid $35 at a pawnbroker 4 it)
So light that I can use it one handed.

Chatting with a local arborist, he offered to do a straight trade for a 3 month old Jonsered saw that sells in the $300 + range.
LOL, I still have it! That little bugger is just the greatest limbing saw!
I have cut to length 6-8" maple and birch for firewood with no sweat.
Maybe it helps that I know how to file my chains!
Note I also have a big powerful Jonsered but prefer that little guy for most chores.

Some (all?) of the Stihl 009 saws were more of a back handle than top handle. The 009s were a great saw.

 

[hslogger]

It aint the size of the wand, tis the magic behind it. i have two of those ms170 Stihl saws. I think they come with sixteen inch bars, I spec'd mine out at two inches shorter. It has plenty of power, I run Oregon chain without the safety straps and have full floating drive spockets instead of the standard star drive. They are fine saws. I know saws. Saws are friends of mine, and these little saws are fine saws.

 

[bullbreaker]

Check out the Echo CS-271T. I looked at this and the Stihl. Didn稚 buy either but the Echo would be my choice....and I own 2 other Stihl saws and like them.

Yes that one's been on my radar also , but been leaning lately towards this one : Echo CS-2511T-12 12" 25.cc Top-Handle Lightweight Gas Chainsaw ($374.)

A little bit smaller displacement , a little more $ but suppose to come with a "pro grade" engine what ever that means . Maybe hour rated ?