small engine power reference

   / small engine power reference #1  

dts1449

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2004
Messages
32
Location
WNY
Hi fellow TBN'ers, I have been struggling with something each time I think about building something that requires a small external gas powered engine. I'm aware of the differences between torque and horse power, cubic inch to cubic centimeters doesn't confuse me too much, but when I try to sort through all of this to select a motor for a project it becomes a little muddled. In my earlier experiences I could pretty accurately guesstimate what I could expect from a HP rating on a motor. I had plenty of experience pushing a 3.5 HP Briggs around the yard as a kid and knew exactly when it was going to stall. lol It meant something to me when a 350 Chevy block was mentioned even though there could be a huge range of torques and horse powers generated from the same block depending on how it was set up. These examples were a learned point of reference, something that I gained over time and experience. Now I seem to be confused again and don't necessarily want to go through the hard knocks of gaining that reference point again. Is there a general rule of thumb I can use to at least ball park a small engine's capabilities based on the limited information many distributors provide?

I sort through Harbor Freight's selection of small engines and the most I can gather is the cubic centimeter and cost. That tells me very little about where it fits in the food chain of engines. Maybe I've missed something but I wouldn't be asking here if I hadn't already spent some time trying to figure this out on my own. I've looked at manufactured equipment spec's and that does help a bit. Maybe I'm looking for the Dick Tracey secret decoder ring for small engines? Is there one?

Thanks,
DTS
 
   / small engine power reference #2  
I would most likely compare the Chinese honda copy engines with a real honda since most are a copy, and compare the CC's and then the HP,

but as far as rules of thumb, for building and powering some thing, I would most likely compare, it to all ready built machines, that do simular,

for example if you were gong to build a 3500 watt generator, most likely one would need at least a 7 hp or larger engine.
All Power Portable Generator — 4000 Watts, Model# APGG-4000 | Portable Generators | Northern Tool + Equipment

or if one wanted to build a grinder, of some type, find some thing commercial made and copy it,

on small gas engines one normally needs about double the rated HP to compare with electric. if it calls for a 3 hp electric I would use at least a 6 hp gas engine, (when one get in to larger engines they come closer to each other,

here is a discussion that some what explains the situation,
Power Comparison Between Electric and Gasoline-Powered Bandmills
(I really do not know the why) but do know it exists,
here is a quote from one of the replies and it is his experience, not theory,
That is why a 10 hp electric is same as the 20 hp gas. I have two sawmills, one has the 7.5 electric, the other has a 20 hp gas. The 20 hp gas is just a little better that the electric.


one more example of the diffrence and what this company found to work,
Pick Your Power
Whether you're looking for economy, or more muscle, or smooth electric power, the LumberLite ML26 offers just the powerplant you need:
9hp (270cc) OHV Honda GX270 for reliable performance that’s easy on your wallet
13hp (389cc) OHV Honda GX-Series delivers solid, smooth horsepower
5hp (230V, 30A, 1-Phase) electric ideal for indoor operations
http://www.norwoodsawmills.com/en/c...ls/Lumberlite_ML26_Portable_Band_sawmill.aspx
 
   / small engine power reference #3  
   / small engine power reference
  • Thread Starter
#4  
BHD and Travelover

Thanks for the great links and the information. I'm probably over thinking this. Sometimes I do that. And as much as I read and read the HF paged, even downloaded the manuals for a couple of the motors, I never caught that right on the front side of the add there was the "replacement for xx HP" written plain as day. I'm sure the more stuff I do with small engines the more familiar I'll become. Thanks again for the great information.
DTS
 
   / small engine power reference #5  
The rules, (law) has changed in regards to small engins.
They can no longer quote HP but now refer to CC's or cubic inches.

The big problem was that a given CC engine would develop X hp at 2500 rpm and the same engine could develop 110% X at 3000rpm and maybe 120% x at 3500 rpm.
Naturally running flat out at 3500 rpm really shortened the life.
It was a HP race out there with every manufacturer claiming 'more HP for your$$' while in fact each and every one was using the same engine.
To put everyone on the same footing laws were enacted to protect the consumer.
 
   / small engine power reference #7  
I was not aware of the HP rule change, but a great example is of gas to electric,

One of the reason I read on the difference was a gas engine was tested for 15 seconds, and allowed to recover, and the electric was tested for constant use.
so for constant run for a gas engine one would need "double" the horse power of the electric motor, so what is a gas engine a 5 or a 10 hp, it is rated 10 hp but in a situation that is constant it can only deliver about 5,
in physics, a horse power is supposed to be a given set of work, most of the time, torque and rpm relationship, for rotating systems,

that is why the Nebraska tractor tests, were so importune when early tractors came out, as one could get a true comparison of pulling power of a tractor,

I have a manual on a military truck and the engine HP is some thing like 96 hp, but the pull power is only about 30 hp, (tractor type pull),

that is why at times you see on tractors a pulling HP and a PTO HP, as the way, and in cars the engines are not tested as if in a car, there striped usually of everything but the motor it self, and tested, no water pump, no alternator, no transmission, etc, and that is why so many of the times some car comes to market and it rated high HP but is a dog on the road, as little of it is getting to the road way,

the problem is cubic inches or CC's is not that great of a way to meause the out put of a engine either, as take your chevy 350, it was any thing from anemic to blow your socks off, depending on the way it was set up,
 
   / small engine power reference #8  
Hi fellow TBN'ers, I have been struggling with something each time I think about building something that requires a small external gas powered engine. I'm aware of the differences between torque and horse power, cubic inch to cubic centimeters doesn't confuse me too much, but when I try to sort through all of this to select a motor for a project it becomes a little muddled. In my earlier experiences I could pretty accurately guesstimate what I could expect from a HP rating on a motor. I had plenty of experience pushing a 3.5 HP Briggs around the yard as a kid and knew exactly when it was going to stall. lol It meant something to me when a 350 Chevy block was mentioned even though there could be a huge range of torques and horse powers generated from the same block depending on how it was set up. These examples were a learned point of reference, something that I gained over time and experience. Now I seem to be confused again and don't necessarily want to go through the hard knocks of gaining that reference point again. Is there a general rule of thumb I can use to at least ball park a small engine's capabilities based on the limited information many distributors provide?

I sort through Harbor Freight's selection of small engines and the most I can gather is the cubic centimeter and cost. That tells me very little about where it fits in the food chain of engines. Maybe I've missed something but I wouldn't be asking here if I hadn't already spent some time trying to figure this out on my own. I've looked at manufactured equipment spec's and that does help a bit. Maybe I'm looking for the Dick Tracey secret decoder ring for small engines? Is there one?

Thanks,
DTS

Horsepower is horse power. Most of the misunderstanding has to do with the way an engine is rated versus how it is marketed.

Marketing amost always touts Maximum Horsepower, i.e the peak of the horsepower versus rpm curve. Aircraft engines are probably the only commercial applications that utilize maximum power and even then it is time limited.
There is flywheel power, pto power and draw bar power on tractors, and these are defined by either SAE or ASAE standard methods. The flywheel power is that measured at the flywheel with the engine accesories operating. The pto power is measured at the pro shaft and is less then the flywheel power due to transmission losses through the gear box. Drawbar power is the drawbar force (~lbs) and the vehicle velocity(~ft/sec) divided by 550(~ft-ib/sec/hp) and is a function of the tractor weight including ballast, tires, and soil conditions, slippage, etc.(The Nebraska Tests are conducted on concrete.)

The engine usually has a "rated" engine speed where it develops it's designed output power at the flywheel (for example 95 hp@2400 rpm). This is not usually the peak of the horsepower vs. rpm curve. I'm not certain, but I believe this a continuous rated power.

Then there is max hp at 540 (or 1000 rpm) pto shaft speed. This tells you what the max power that can be transmitted, via the pto shaft, to a powered implement at the implement's designed input shaft speeds.

Finally there's max drawbar power. That's determined by test on a ballasted tractor pulling a weighted sled around a concrete track. I believe it's determined by "trial and error" varying ballast weight, tire pressure, at rated engine speed.

Most tractors will deliver more than rated power at the design speed since individual engines output will vary. The manufacture tries to deliver no engine with less HP then the rated power.

For small engine that run at near fixed rpm ( the governor actually "droops" the speed somewhat with load), I believe they are rated for continuous operation at design speed. They are probably marketed at "peak power", which is not realistic.

An electric motor generally runs at a certain no load design speed and when the rated load is supplied , the speed sags down to the operating speed and it delivers it's rated power.

So a small gas engine that develops 7.5 hosepower under continuous 7.5 hp load will produce the same horsepower as an electric motor rated at 7.5 hp electric motor driving a 7.5 hp load. The only difference is that the gas engine is liable to marketed as a 10 hp engine!

The best way to match an engine to a load is with the certified power curves and they come from the engine manufacturer. If an engine has the same compression ratio, the same displacement, the same valve configuration and the same design rpm, then for all practical purposes it will have very nearly the same power output. The major differences between small engines in the same power and torque class are probably due to manufacturing differences and materials.

That's probably more than you wanted to know.
 
   / small engine power reference #9  
The hp claims can certainly be confusing. I have a shop vac that claims "6.5 peak hp". Well, it's a 120VAC motor driving it so even on a 20 amp breaker, it should only be able to develop 2400W or about 3.2 hp. In reality, you probably won't see anything over 2.0 hp (continuous actual output) on a 120VAC circuit due to inefficiencies of single phase motors.

Anytime I see power claims on electric motors, I always ask myself - is that the power it draws (electrically) or is that the power I can expect to get from the output shaft because they are two very different values because of the reason I stated above, at least for single phase anyway. Large 3-phase power motors (> 50 hp for example) can achieve high efficiencies >95% so that isn't as much of an issue with them. Motors should be rated for output shaft power (what you actually get out of the motor) but the way things are nowadays it's hard to say. Certainly it sounds much better to rate the motor at what it electrically draws for marketing purposes. In the case of my shop vac, I'm not exactly sure where they are getting the 6.5hp value. I'm thinking that once it's up to speed, if you suddenly "locked" the rotor, you could realize 6.5hp during some small period of time only because of the momentum contained in the system is being absorbed. The other possibility is during startup when motors can draw a significantly higher amount of amperage for a short duration before tripping the breaker. I've heard this to be 5-8 times running amps, so this would also be a good reason.

Sizing gasoline and diesel engines for practical use is probably best best done by testing unless you have a really indepth understanding of all the loads in the system you are trying to power and their associated limitations (how much torque can the components take?). In general, a too small (low hp) engine will still get the job done, just not nearly as quickly although this certainly isn't always the case.
 
   / small engine power reference
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Piloon, good to know about the rule changes. It seems maybe they could have just picked a standard operating RPM and used that as the reference point, but I guess depending on the application and RPM requirements that might not be a good way either.

Tractor Seabee, thanks for the link, I found some pretty good discussion information there.

BHD, that's pretty interesting about the Nebraska tractor tests. That would put a fair reference to the machine as a whole. It does get pretty complicated when changing fuel mixtures and tire pressures etc... but at least you'd know that the tractor was capable of.

Jerry/MT, you're right, there is allot of information there to sort through. I think I've absorbed most of it. Thanks for the response, there sure are a bunch of different ways to represent the same terms, one just has to be sure the terms given are the terms relevant to the application such as HP at the draw bar as opposed to HP at the PTO.

ILikeurTractor, comparing electrical power output among different products reminds me of a situation we dealt with several years ago at my work. Having an electronics background and working in that area of technology I'm fairly familiar with audio power output for different types of systems. (PA system, audio entertainment systems, etc...) When PCs became more common place to the masses (about the same time they became multi-media devices +/-) we had to spec out external speaker system requirements for an RFP process. It was amazing to see what each manufacturer responded with as performance. Somewhere between our tech department and the business office who actually typed up the RFP and bid spec's we lost the true spec we were looking for and opened up wattage for anyone's interpretation. We had manufacturer claiming to have 100 to 500 watt speaker systems being driven from a few components on a PC sound card. RMS, Peak or Total System Power are all different things much like HP ratings on various motors or equipment.

Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate the time and effort given in your responses. I've learned allot and have tucked away several of the links for future reference. DTS
 

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