I need to replace the ignition switch wiring on my Mitsubishi D1650FD (the wires burned up due to an apparent dead short). The wiring diagram I was able to find indicates that the glow plugs are powered in the CCW momentary switch position and when the switch is in "run" position. Is this correct? My tractor, of course, runs when the switch is in "run" or "off" after it is started. Why would I want the glow plugs on once the tractor is started? Also, If I were to pull the head, at is it absolutely necessary to replace the cylinder head gasket? They are rather expensive by my standards. I'm pretty new to diesel engines... Thanks.
Small catastrophe under the dash...
- Thread starter jdweasel
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scott_vt
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Good Mornin jdweasel,
On my Massey 1040, the glow plugs are activated by turning the ignition switch in the ccw position. This position is spring loaded, so only can be done by manually holding the key in that position. Im sure this is pretty similar on most diesel tractors.
That being said, once the plugs have heated enough, and the engine starts, the key location is in the run position, I dont think you should have power still going to the plugs. Combustion is achieved through compression when the engine is running, so I question that diagram also.
On the head gasket, I would be inclined to buy a new gasket, just so I wouldnt have to go back and do the job over... JMO
Good luck
Craig Clayton
Platinum Member
I would stick with the factory wiring setup. If you change your glow plugs to cycle in the run position then everytime in the SUMMER the relay will close and the life of it will be reduced. I have done a head gaseket before I do not like going there. Think of your old head gasket it has already been imprinted by the orginal installation and you will never get that again.
Craig Clayton
Craig Clayton
Don87
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Yes.:thumbsup:
Scotty370
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Definately 'bite the bullet' on the gasket, and be ultra carefull on cleaning of the mating surfaces, as well as the torquing stages, and sequence! (2 cents duly submitted!) ~Scotty
Gary Sweat
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The little scotch guard pads work pretty good for cleaning the surfaces and not leave any scratch marks. If the block or head have any minor pitting you can use a good head gasket sealer to fill them in. There at differing opinions on which is the best but most likely any of them will work better than nothing.
As was pointed out to me, I meant to say Scotch Brite, not guard
Oh well, if you use scotch guard it wont stain:laughing:
As was pointed out to me, I meant to say Scotch Brite, not guard
Oh well, if you use scotch guard it wont stain:laughing:
Last edited:
6thgpSF
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I think you should consider using new head bolts also.the old ones stretch after being torqued.russ
scott_vt
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Good Afternoon Gary,
I agree, and would also add that stuffing some rags into cylinder bores, will protect them from any grit and debris that could get in there...
Scotty370
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I use to replace the bolts also, in my several visits, to trying to keep a head gasket in my old VW Diesel Rabbit! Also, obviously Gary meant "Scotch-Brite", and I concur with some type of sealant. I think I used to use a areasol 'copper-spray'....(?)...~Scotty
After a re-read, I guess I don't understand your perceived need to pull the head? I do agree with the group, that you definately don't want the 'glo-plugs' energised after start-up.....~S
Gary Sweat
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Good point! I soak a rag in some light weight oil and ring it out then stuff it in the cylinders. The oil will make tiny dirt or grit stick to it. It's amazing what grit can do to rings and cylinder walls. It is also a good idea to clean off the buildup on top of the pistons and head. However, you have to be careful cleaning pistons as the aluminum will scratch easily. I think a lot of engine overhauls that have failed come from not keeping everything clean and completely removing old gasket materials when it goes back together.
And thanks for the catch on the scotch guard. I edited my post.
Scotty370
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Don't feel bad, Gary! I can't spell "Aerosol"! :laughing:..........~S
Ford tractor
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Reuse a head gasket? NO.
Typically, parts of it will be on the head and parts on the block so there is no thought of "economizing".
Typically, parts of it will be on the head and parts on the block so there is no thought of "economizing".
KubotaSam
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Look carefully at the wiring diagram. I think you will find that the glo plugs are activated with the CCW position to preheat the combustion chamber and are also energized with the key in the start position (not the run position). On my Kubota the current runs through the resistor in the CCW preheat position and bypasses the resisitor in the start position. The amperage draw of the starter motor provides the voltage drop for the glo plugs.
