Slack and slop in loader/backhoe joints

/ Slack and slop in loader/backhoe joints #1  

sporteus

Bronze Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2015
Messages
56
Location
Middlefield, CT
Tractor
John Deere 650 - Very Used!
Continuing with my renovations on the JD650 I purchased at auction, I'm focusing on the things that I think need fixing, repairing, tweaking that I can do myself without getting into too much trouble (presumably).

Question on the pivot joints for the backhoe and the loader. There are a couple of bolts that are obviously not the right ones for the joint and were likely and after thought to get the tractor to auction (very little rust). So, I'm going to swap those out for a more appropriate size and grade of bolt. A few questions.

I'm assuming that any pivot joint should be "tight" to the point of minimal lateral movement but enough slack for grease to push though easily and lubricate. The elbow pivot on the backhoe has the wrong bolt and there is almost a 1/2" of slack laterally between the stick and the boom because there are no bushings . So, I'm assuming I should fill with bushings, spacers, extra think washers to prevent excessive lateral movement on that pivot but don't make it so tight that grease can't get through.

Likewise with the diameter of the bolts, tight but with sufficient room for grease movement around the bolt, right?. I replaced one at the base of the backhoe with the appropriate size (according to the manual I found online), but there is still a lot of play in the diameter of the bolt and the pivot point. It took a 3/4" bolt, but the play feels like it could take a 7/8" or 1" with plenty of room for movement. Problem is, the holes on the frame will only take a 3/4", so I didn't try to put anything larger in there to close up that slack.

I'm assuming these same rules with any pivot joints. The bolts securing the loader bucket are also not the right ones, actually thinking those should be pins and not bolts, so may try to find the right sized grade 5 or 8 pins to put in there.

Next year I might try my hand at actually understanding hydraulics, but I'll wait until I can study up over the winter! Too may hoses, valves, cylinders, and thingy-ma-bobs for my brain to handle right now. :D
 
/ Slack and slop in loader/backhoe joints #2  
Slop accelerates wear... snug with room for lube is ideal... it should move free without binding.

When I worked at the machine shop... one of the jobs I tended to get was loader pins and bushings...

There was a foundry nearby and did a lot of work with sand... made a lot of oversize pins letting us ream bushings oversize to renew the original tolerances.

All the pins were hardened and ground... I think you will find a lot variation in bolts with the plain not plated being the most uniform.
 
/ Slack and slop in loader/backhoe joints #3  
With the pressure and load you will be working with on a backhoe I would source the OEM parts. This will get you the tolerances you need and withstand the forces.
 
/ Slack and slop in loader/backhoe joints
  • Thread Starter
#4  
LOL, OEM parts.....30+ year old tractor with backhoe and loader from a company that no longer exists (remnants of it bought out several time and dissolved into oblivion) But, I agree with the sentiment wholeheartedly! Been told I'm crazy for buying John Deere parts for other things, but I agree with your thought on tolerances/specs so I spend extra money when I probably don't really have to. (yes, buying john deere antifreeze and flush was probably wasted money, but it was there so i bought it!)

Actually, the Brantley manual I found calls for Grade 5 bolts in most places where it's noted and I'm replacing with Grade 8 bolts where I can (I always try to over engineer where I can, it's in my nature). I don't expect I'll have issues, this is a small tractor and I'm more likely to run it into a tree than break the attachments I fear! Already had my neighbor try to drive it through his log pile yesterday thinking it was in reverse when it was actually in 8th gear at about 200RPMs....sigh.
 
 

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