Size and HP ???

/ Size and HP ??? #1  

2Bad4u

Bronze Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
55
Location
PEI, Canada
Tractor
Kubota BX2370
Hey everyone.

Here's the deal. Ideally we are looking for 1 to 3 acres of oceanfront property in PEI to build on and retire, but up to 10 acres is not out of the question. We will NOT be farming the land but the wife will most likely do some gardening. Most of the properties we've seen is relatively flat or gently sloping, and the annual snowfall averages 133". The primary tractor needs is a front end snow blower and a MMM. I can also see wanting a FEL and a box blade.

Here's the problem. I know VERY little about tractors and do not know which size to buy or how much HP is needed. I realize that the actual land will determine my needs, but working with the above information, what do you suggest. I do not want to over or under work the tractor. I'm looking for some guidance here because I'm just too new to tractors.

Should I be looking at a BX series sub-compact or a B series compact, and how much HP do I need?

Thanks in advance for sharing your thoughts.

Cheers!
-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ??? #2  
When I bought my first tractor I listened to the salesperson and purchased a FEL. I would not buy another tractor without a FEL unless it was an older model that I would strictly pull a brush cutter with. You did not say anything about a cab on the tractor. I will let others with snow experience reply on what you need for where you live. If your drive is going to be a long gravel one then my suggestion is a land plane to keep it in shape. Another suggestion is to buy a few more HP than you think you need. You will find a use for the extra HP once you figure out how much you can do with the tractor. I'm going to throw out there a B2920. The Kubota site lists a front mounted snow blower for the unit.
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#3  
First of all thanks for the quick reply. Considering the winter requirements a cab would be very useful. Can a heater also be installed? I suspect that I'll have a long gravel driveway, most likely around 500 to 600 feet because typically the lots are long and narrow (150' x 675'). As for the land plane, could a box plane be used instead, or would I be better off with a land plane? Please bear with me because I'm new to all of this.

I was looking at the B2920 and thought that it would be a good choice. However, not having any experience I had no idea if it was over powered/built for my needs. That's why I thought that the BX series may be a better and less expensive solution. Getting the right tractor is more important to me that saving a few dollars.

-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ??? #4  
With ten feet of snow to blow you will want at least a soft cab for sure. You can add a heater to a cab and most hard cabs come with them as well as AC. I have more land then you are looking at so have a bigger tractor with a soft cab. It works well and I have not needed a heater as the heat from the transmission is right under your seat. More then enough when you are dressed for the outside.
011613135632_zps7385ebc2.jpg

Enjoy your tractor shopping.
 
/ Size and HP ??? #5  
The biggest difference between the BX and B is ground clearance. Flat land would normally mean a BX will do it from what you describe ....except for the depth of snow factor which we don't face in Ky.:)
I've owned several Bs and BXs. I currently own a B2620 FEL BH after previously owning a BX25 FEL BH and I wish I had my BX back.:)
A BX2660 is about 26 HP and the B2920 is about 29 HP so the HP is about the same. Talk to your local (where you are going to live) dealer and ask them the size for the area (snow needs).
 
/ Size and HP ??? #6  
I don't see anything in your description that you couldn't handle with a BX series tractor. The front blower works well even in 20" snow storms and it will pull a box blade just fine. You would most likely want a cab which is after market but certainly available, including heat.

image-2055714340.jpg



image-3489524605.jpg

The BX series is a great mowing machine and will lift about 525 pounds conservatively in the loader. The B series is larger and heavier and available with more hp but it doesn't really sound like you need that from your description.

Just my opinion, ymmv.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
/ Size and HP ??? #7  
Very good advice by other members on which I can't improve, John lives in the same type of weather as I and we don't get much snow, so it's hard to tell. I can say I have used mine in snow and it worked "OK", but our snows are pretty infrequent and it was dragging it's bellly coming out of the barn.

You are, it looks like, in that gray area in which either a BX or B will get the job done. I've not owned both like John, but looked closely at them and agree that ground clearance or lack thereof is what really stands out. I chose a BX because I have other tractors if needed, if I didn't I would have gone with a B Series. I personally prefer the B2630/3030, 3000 and new equivalent over the Bxx20, but the bBxx20 works for many and is very popular. The more ground you have, in my opinion, the more the scale tips in the direction of the B as they tend t be smoother over rough ground.

As to the Land Plane/Grading Scraper such as this: Dirtworking | Land Pride[0]=field_dirtworking%3A100

Or the box scraper, I guess that is another of those never ending debates and there are some very long threads on here about them. I find the box scraper more useful over all, but for road maintenance solely they are really easy to use. Everything Attachments has some videos on box scrapers and grading scrapers.

As mentioned, John has owned several and his old threads have a lot of good information on them and you might want to also look up a couple by bp fick. I know some other members have owned both, but their names escape me.

As always, while my preference is generally Kubota, it is always a good idea in my opinion to shop all brands and if you know nothing about tractors try to rent the size you think you might want and use it for a couple of days to get a baseline for comparison.

Good luck.
 
/ Size and HP ??? #8  
What ever brand you chose,with that much snow(I live in the north) you want a Factory cab for sure.The add on cabs don't seal well,are noisey and lack AC.Crazy to run a front snow-blower with-out a cab.Look at the "B" series Kubota for sure.
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#9  
A lot of great advise here - thanks everyone. Unless we end up with some hilly property it looks like the BX2670 may be the ticket.

Must haves:
  • Front mounted snow blower
  • MMM
  • Hard cab
Would like to have:
  • FEL
  • Box plane
With respect to the "Chute Rotator Kit" for the snow blower. Is the hydraulic kit worth the additional expense over the electric kit?

Also, does Kubota offer a hard cab for the BX series (I couldn't find any), or do I have to go 3rd party?

The weather forecast for tomorrow is calling for rain so I won't be working on any boats. Sounds like a good day to go down to the local Kubota dealer and have a closer look. :licking: I better sew my pockets before I go in the showroom. :D

-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ??? #10  
A lot of great advise here - thanks everyone. Unless we end up with some hilly property it looks like the BX2670 may be the ticket.

Must haves:

[*]Front mounted snow blower
[*]MMM
[*]Hard cab

Would like to have:

[*]FEL
[*]Box plane

With respect to the "Chute Rotator Kit" for the snow blower. Is the hydraulic kit worth the additional expense over the electric kit?

Also, does Kubota offer a hard cab for the BX series (I couldn't find any), or do I have to go 3rd party?

The weather forecast for tomorrow is calling for rain so I won't be working on any boats. Sounds like a good day to go down to the local Kubota dealer and have a closer look. :licking: I better sew my pockets before I go in the showroom. :D

-- Bill --

I have the electric chute rotator and it seems pretty slow. The videos of the hydro ones seemed to work a lot faster but I don't have any personal experience with it. Kubota doesn't make a factory cab for the BX series. The first kubota offering with a factory cab is the B3000. Great tractor but you are talking $37k in US for the tractor with loader, mower, and blower. The BX series runs quite a bit cheaper.

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
 
/ Size and HP ??? #11  
I take it you have not yet purchased the Retirement land?

Why not wait till the land is finalized. That would give you much more information on what is required.

With lawn mowing and heavy wet snow blowing there may be a conflict on size and horsepower. You may end up with a rider mower and larger tractor that works better with the dirt moving attachments and snow removal equipment.:)

Kubota will still have a tractor for you. It is very doubtful they will run out.:thumbsup:
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#12  
I take it you have not yet purchased the Retirement land?

Why not wait till the land is finalized. That would give you much more information on what is required.

With lawn mowing and heavy wet snow blowing there may be a conflict on size and horsepower. You may end up with a rider mower and larger tractor that works better with the dirt moving attachments and snow removal equipment.:)

Kubota will still have a tractor for you. It is very doubtful they will run out.:thumbsup:

We have not purchased the land but if the right property is found we'll jump on it now and build when we are ready, probably in the next 12 months. I agree that looking for a tractor now may seem a little premature at this time because the land will dictate our tractor requirements. But since we know very little about tractors I thought I would begin the the learning process now versus rushing the process latter. Doing this now also allows us to setup a realistic budget.
 
/ Size and HP ??? #13  
Planning in advance never hurts. Spending lots of time looking can be very enjoyable also. It'll give you an opportunity to see all that is out there and maybe even run across an exceptional deal.:D
 
/ Size and HP ??? #14  
I agree, planning is necessary. I have been on my property for three years. And I have gone from looking at the BX, to B, to the L Series. I still wonder about the Grand series. Then, after deciding on the right series, then you have to understand the market. Whether it be used or new there is a variance on price. This is a long process. The advice on this forum has been very valuable.
 
/ Size and HP ??? #15  
Hey everyone.

Here's the deal. Ideally we are looking for 1 to 3 acres of oceanfront property in PEI to build on and retire, but up to 10 acres is not out of the question.

Here's the problem. I know VERY little about tractors and do not know which size to buy or how much HP is needed. I realize that the actual land will determine my needs, but working with the above information, what do you suggest. I do not want to over or under work the tractor. I'm looking for some guidance here because I'm just too new to tractors.

Should I be looking at a BX series sub-compact or a B series compact, and how much HP do I need?

Cheers!
-- Bill --

Hello Bill. We live in the mountains of Colorado and get a bit of snow.

You asked for thought, and this may be heresy - but I wouldn't restrict the search to the Kubota B series machines - or even to just Kubota. In spite of the fact that I think our own Kubota is one of the best built, the truth is that all of the main tractor manufacturers make darn good machines. After all, being a reliable smooth working tool is what tractors are all about.

Some more thoughts then..... Of course it will be 4x4. Absolutely no reason not to do that. As for size and hp, it depends on whether you are going to mow a lawn with the tractor. If you do that, you need to compromise towards less ground loading and weight. But if you don't have that restriction, then going larger up towards 50 hp will give you a much smoother ride, more comfort, and more stability. Don't be afraid of a used machine; tractors are made to last a lifetime. It isn't unusual for one to go decades before needing any service. I wouldn't worry about overworking or underworking the tractor. As long as the tractor is large enough - say 25/30 hp or even more up to twice that - it won't make a bit of difference to the tractor, only to your comfort.

I've had compacts since the early 1980s and not worn one out yet. Not even close. BTW, the main things that differ on today's tractors versus the ones from 30 years ago are more electronics and the availability of hydrostatic drive and shuttle shift on smaller machines. Otherwise they are much the same. There haven't been a lot of advancements as those came along in the 70s and early 80s. The biggy is the transmission. Thirty years ago tractors tended to have a traditional manual gearbox; today there are more options.

Say, if you have a lot of snow..... does it stay or does it melt off between snowfalls? That's important info because if the snow stays on the ground for months you need to consider blowing it off the road rather than blading it. Just pushing the snow to the side can build up a solid embankment giving no place to put the next snowfall.
Blade or blower, it is much nicer for us older operators if the implement is mounted up front with us inside of a cab. Moving snow with the front of a tractor makes for a localized snowstorm on the operator. The downside to front mounting anything is that it is always more expensive. Hmmm....I was just looking at the picture on reply #4 from vtsnowedin and admiring his front-mounted blade. Now that is a very clever setup. But it requires a FEL as a platform. Of course everyone has already told you that you want a FEL so I'll add my vote. Nobody really appreciates FELs until they have one. Then it becomes a necessity. We have one on every tractor.

Some of the Kubotas (and other brands) have FELs that feature quick attach FEL buckets. Our M59 is that way, and its another thing I didn't realize until I had it how handy it was. Most QA loaders also have accessory hydraulic outlets pre-installed on the loader arms - a necessity for driving a blower. On FEL like that, dropping the dirt/snow bucket and replacing it with a different front implement like a blower or blade takes only a few minutes of time. The downside is that those implements tend to be as expensive as they are convenient. The quantity of hydraulic fluid required to drive a blower is also a factor. Be sure to check that. Most mfg specs are optimistic.

The upside to front implements is how good your back feels after NOT looking over your shoulder at a 3 pt hitch mounted implement while you work. At a younger age I sure looked over my shoulder a lot easier than today.
Well, that's enough for now. Hope I've given you a few things to think on.
Luck, rScotty
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I went to the Kubota dealer this afternoon to see these things in person.

It looks like they moved their business to this new location recently; big, clean, well equipped, and full of all sorts of mowers and tractors. :D I went inside and went immediately to the Kubota's, within a few minutes a salesman came by to see if I had any questions. I immediately told him that I know little about tractors and that I'm just a tire kicker. I went on and told him about our plans to move to PEI, anticipated tractor usage, and potential lot sizes. Despite him knowing there was no sale now, or in the future, he spent about 45 minutes with me. After hearing my needs, he like everyone else here, recommended the BX or possibly the B series tractors, depending on the lot size and landscape. He then went on and showed me the similarities and differences between the two series. I of course had many questions which he happily answered. I thank him for his time, he gave me some brochures to take tome, and I continued to look at the tractors by myself for another 30 minutes. About every 10 minutes or so he would drop by to see if I had any other questions he could help me with. I found it to be a truly enjoyable experience - unlike most of the car dealership experiences we've all had in the past. I was impressed with their service and would highly recommend them others.

A couple of observations I came away with. First, the physical size differences between the BX and B series was not as large as I imagined - for some reason I thought that the B series would be closer in size to the L series. Second, the fit and finish was very good to excellent - I've read several posts on this forum complaining about poor paint jobs and overspray.

It was a fun and informative day.

-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Hello Bill. We live in the mountains of Colorado and get a bit of snow.

You asked for thought, and this may be heresy - but I wouldn't restrict the search to the Kubota B series machines - or even to just Kubota. In spite of the fact that I think our own Kubota is one of the best built, the truth is that all of the main tractor manufacturers make darn good machines. After all, being a reliable smooth working tool is what tractors are all about.

Some more thoughts then..... Of course it will be 4x4. Absolutely no reason not to do that. As for size and hp, it depends on whether you are going to mow a lawn with the tractor. If you do that, you need to compromise towards less ground loading and weight. But if you don't have that restriction, then going larger up towards 50 hp will give you a much smoother ride, more comfort, and more stability. Don't be afraid of a used machine; tractors are made to last a lifetime. It isn't unusual for one to go decades before needing any service. I wouldn't worry about overworking or underworking the tractor. As long as the tractor is large enough - say 25/30 hp or even more up to twice that - it won't make a bit of difference to the tractor, only to your comfort.

I've had compacts since the early 1980s and not worn one out yet. Not even close. BTW, the main things that differ on today's tractors versus the ones from 30 years ago are more electronics and the availability of hydrostatic drive and shuttle shift on smaller machines. Otherwise they are much the same. There haven't been a lot of advancements as those came along in the 70s and early 80s. The biggy is the transmission. Thirty years ago tractors tended to have a traditional manual gearbox; today there are more options.

Say, if you have a lot of snow..... does it stay or does it melt off between snowfalls? That's important info because if the snow stays on the ground for months you need to consider blowing it off the road rather than blading it. Just pushing the snow to the side can build up a solid embankment giving no place to put the next snowfall.
Blade or blower, it is much nicer for us older operators if the implement is mounted up front with us inside of a cab. Moving snow with the front of a tractor makes for a localized snowstorm on the operator. The downside to front mounting anything is that it is always more expensive. Hmmm....I was just looking at the picture on reply #4 from vtsnowedin and admiring his front-mounted blade. Now that is a very clever setup. But it requires a FEL as a platform. Of course everyone has already told you that you want a FEL so I'll add my vote. Nobody really appreciates FELs until they have one. Then it becomes a necessity. We have one on every tractor.

Some of the Kubotas (and other brands) have FELs that feature quick attach FEL buckets. Our M59 is that way, and its another thing I didn't realize until I had it how handy it was. Most QA loaders also have accessory hydraulic outlets pre-installed on the loader arms - a necessity for driving a blower. On FEL like that, dropping the dirt/snow bucket and replacing it with a different front implement like a blower or blade takes only a few minutes of time. The downside is that those implements tend to be as expensive as they are convenient. The quantity of hydraulic fluid required to drive a blower is also a factor. Be sure to check that. Most mfg specs are optimistic.

The upside to front implements is how good your back feels after NOT looking over your shoulder at a 3 pt hitch mounted implement while you work. At a younger age I sure looked over my shoulder a lot easier than today.
Well, that's enough for now. Hope I've given you a few things to think on.
Luck, rScotty

Hi Scotty, thanks for your informative post.

I like Kubota's but I'm not going to overlook some of the other fine offerings available. Presently I'm still (and will continue for some time) in the learning/research phase. Because of my inexperience I'm specifically not looking at other alternatives at this time. Throwing other manufactures into the picture would only further complicate things. Once I have a better basic understanding of things, AND have purchased the property, will I know what my true needs are. Once the landscape is known the tractor sizing can be made to best meet those specific needs. And once size is known, comparing equivalent models from the various manufactures will be much easier. At least that's the way my mind works.

Both snow removal and mowing are prime considerations, therefore a hard cab, 4x4, and HST are a given. The annual average snowfall is 133" and it can easily drop 20" at a time. Once on the ground the snow typically stays. Based on some of the lots we've looked at I can easily see having a 500' to 600' gravel driveway. Given the above a front snow blower is the only option that I'm considering. What I'm not sure about is the "chute rotator kit". Should it be electrical or hydraulic? Given the amount of snow I'll get, is hydraulic worth the addition cost? If someone could comment on this I would appreciate it very much.

Originally I didn't give a FEL much thought and just about everyone recommends getting one. Snow and grass removal are my top priorities, but I'm now considering getting a FEL if the budget allows for it. The snow and grass can easily be justified to the Minister of Finance (wife), but the FEL will be a harder sell. I'm sold on the idea of having QA implements whenever possible. I'm now 58 and I've been retired for almost two years, anything that makes life easier sounds good to me. As I get older the QA implements make even more sense.

Thanks again Scotty for your informative post.

Cheers!
-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ??? #18  
Stick with your Kubota research/evaluation. Don't look at or consider another brand until you've determined which Kubota model and attachments you want/need. Get your price on the Kubota model and brand with all attachments as you want delivered to your house.
Then contact the other brand dealers and ask what tractor that they have that meets the specs of the Kubota tractor that you have decided on. Ask them for a DELIVERED PRICE for their model with all financing options. You'll be able to dismiss most higher priced brands at this time and be able to compare the close to each other priced models.
I did this about 10 years ago and bought my first of 15 Kubotas. The equal JD was $3000 more and the NH was $2500 more. Kubota dealer has been fair with me on dealing and what little service I've ever needed. Doubt you'll find different results but you may and your story may be similiar to mine years from now but yours may be about a different color than mine.
I've never bought a used machine/tractor but not saying I wouldn't if I found one with under 100 hours and it was half of new price. Yep, that's why I've never bought a used machine.:laughing:
 
/ Size and HP ???
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Stick with your Kubota research/evaluation. Don't look at or consider another brand until you've determined which Kubota model and attachments you want/need. Get your price on the Kubota model and brand with all attachments as you want delivered to your house.
Then contact the other brand dealers and ask what tractor that they have that meets the specs of the Kubota tractor that you have decided on. Ask them for a DELIVERED PRICE for their model with all financing options. You'll be able to dismiss most higher priced brands at this time and be able to compare the close to each other priced models.
I did this about 10 years ago and bought my first of 15 Kubotas. The equal JD was $3000 more and the NH was $2500 more. Kubota dealer has been fair with me on dealing and what little service I've ever needed. Doubt you'll find different results but you may and your story may be similiar to mine years from now but yours may be about a different color than mine.
I've never bought a used machine/tractor but not saying I wouldn't if I found one with under 100 hours and it was half of new price. Yep, that's why I've never bought a used machine.:laughing:

Similar to my plan but more detailed your first two paragraphs describe a well thought out approach to buying a tractor. Especially someone like myself who doesn't have any tractor experience. Considering that I've only been on the forum for a few days now I'm surprised about how much GOOD information that I've already picked up. I realize that there is still much to learn but I'm very pleased with the progress that has been made in this very short period of time.

Many thanks to the those who have helped me through this journey.

-- Bill --
 
/ Size and HP ??? #20  
Great advice so far, Bill, and I'll just throw in two more thoughts.

First, regarding the FEL and its cost. Much of the initial cost of a FEL carries into the resale value. The FEL is so universally handy, a used tractor without one will sell quite a bit cheaper. And whatever it costs, you can't begin to imagine the number of times when it will save your - ahem - mature back on your new place. Firewood, mulch, soil, gravel, manure, block, rock, bricks, fertilizer, stumps, downed trees, the list of heavy stuff you'll need to move is endless. If the CFO was thinking you'd just do it all with a wheelbarrow, you might ask how many years she was figuring you'd have before doing everything the hard way turned you into an old man. The FEL is hands down and bar none the most useful thing you'll have for your tractor, for things you haven't even really thought about yet.

Second, keep that cab in mind when you shop for your property and figure out the landscaping. Cabs and low-hanging limbs don't go together very well, such as when mowing. Many people end up having something smaller for close-in mowing where the larger machine won't fit.

Keep asking questions and developing your game plan. There are lots of people here with good advice to learn from.
 

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