Sicma finish mower revival I need help if someone has spare time and good online

[1930]

Some of you may remember this thread https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/428272-good-deal.html?highlight=

Ive decided its time to buy the parts.

I need all 4 forks, 3 are bent/re-welded basically junk and 1 was missing completely, I found a source online here Login : but the deal seems now

A- to good to be true
B- I never received a confirming e-mail that my order had been placed
C- Im now guessing its coming from overseas and yes I was ignorant enough not to have known that initially AKA didnt bother to look where it was coming from since Im not in a rush to get it
D- See A

I also will possibly order 4 new tires from e-bay, they are 179.76 for 4 of them and I like them cause they are solid OEM and not junk that Im assuming Ill have to mess with later on. Sicma 1" X 3" Solid Wheel 662739 for 6" and 72" finish mowers | eBay

I may just use the 3 that I have, I know they are solid but I do not know if that means solid/solid as in Id be stupid to not use these even though there are cuts/gashes and basically beat to ****.

Whats your opinions?

Ive also had to order this Sicma Finish Mower Solid Wheel Mounting Kit fits GM3 Series 662739 Wheel | eBay kit cause again one wheel was already missing and so I dont have it. Best deal I could find online

I also need this DRIVE PULLEY - Parts For Sitrex, First Choice, Caroni, & Howse Mowers - Blades, Belts, And More drive pulley from this https://www.tractorpartscentral.com...en=CTGY&Store_Code=TPC3&Category_Code=FCFM60& or similar site.

I think the price is ridiculous. Can someone tell me where I can find a pulley cheaper. Sadly I have never had to identify a pulley to go online and order on so I do not know the per-requisites to ensure I get this correct.

As you can see mine is junk.

I guess Im gonna need a puller to get this one off? Im hoping its a common puller that I prob have.

Im gonna order the manual/parts listing book as well from same place https://www.tractorpartscentral.com/store/product/FCFM60/FM-MANUAL.htm and it looks like Im not gonna have a choice but to order their spanner wrench https://www.tractorpartscentral.com/store/product/FCFM60/SW-15.htm cause I do not seem to have any other ideas of getting the spindles disassembled for cleaning ect.

Can someone tell me how to stop the blade or pulley from turning whilst Im trying to get the nut off the top with the special wrench Im fixin to order?

I know maybe the thing looks like junk but the deck is solid, minor surface rust underneath, no rust through, super heavy steel throughout. The gearbox support plate looks the worst and the steel on that is 3/8 thick and rust is technically minor surface rust.

Thanks

 

[1930]

So I might have 400-1000 in parts at the most and have what Ive read is a really nice mower for the rest of my life

 

[DK35vince]

All I ever needed for my 84" First Choice (Sicma) was blades and belts. (Got my belts matched locally)
I just got the blades from here First Choice - Parts For Sitrex, First Choice, Caroni, & Howse Mowers - Blades, Belts, And More and they came quick and easy.
Never needed enough parts to look for cheaper prices

 

[Xfaxman]

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Can someone tell me how to stop the blade or pulley from turning whilst Im trying to get the nut off the top with the special wrench Im fixin to order?


Thanks

For blades, I put a C clamp on the housing so that the blade comes up against it and can not turn.

 

[1930]

For blades, I put a C clamp on the housing so that the blade comes up against it and can not turn.

I tried vice grips and no luck, Ill try a c clamp. Thanks

 

[chim]

I have a spare drive pulley for Caroni, and according to some info I saw it may be the same one. I can get measurements and pics if you want. I refurbed a 90" and more recently a 5 footer. The two shared a number of parts, so after using a third deck for a "donor" there are parts left over.

If you have it that far apart, I'd recommend a good cleaning of the shaft the drive pulley is connected to and replacement of the lower oil seal. This is assuming yours is similar to mine.

I'd spend a lot of time on the Agri Supply site looking at parts before plunking the VISA down somewhere else. I'd bet that a lot of parts are common between brands, such as wheels and forks. I've done a fair amount of business with AS and wish they'd have one somewhere North of the Mason Dixon Line.

To remove the spanner nuts on the top ends of the quills (spindles) I give them a shot of penetrant and use a drift punch and a light hammer to get the nuts spinning. A pair of Channellock pliers (preferably curved jaw) is useful after they break loose and for reinstallation. I haven't needed anything much to hold the blade. Often used Channellock "Big Azz" to grab the pulley itself. Gotta be careful not to scratch the belt-ridden surface, or clean it up when you do.

I have two methods of straightening the stems on the forks. One is with an old hand-pumped conduit bender. It works best on the ones that aren't bent real close to either end of the stem. The other is a cobblefabbed thick steel plate welded to an insert for my receiver hitch on the truck. Poke the stem through the hole and with a long heavy square tube to apply pressure it works well. For odd bends, a 12# hammer and appropriate support works OK.

Here's link to one of the decks I refurbed:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rfm-restoration.html?highlight=caroni+rebuild

 

[1930]

I have a spare drive pulley for Caroni, and according to some info I saw it may be the same one. I can get measurements and pics if you want. I refurbed a 90" and more recently a 5 footer. The two shared a number of parts, so after using a third deck for a "donor" there are parts left over.

If you have it that far apart, I'd recommend a good cleaning of the shaft the drive pulley is connected to and replacement of the lower oil seal. This is assuming yours is similar to mine.

I'd spend a lot of time on the Agri Supply site looking at parts before plunking the VISA down somewhere else. I'd bet that a lot of parts are common between brands, such as wheels and forks. I've done a fair amount of business with AS and wish they'd have one somewhere North of the Mason Dixon Line.

To remove the spanner nuts on the top ends of the quills (spindles) I give them a shot of penetrant and use a drift punch and a light hammer to get the nuts spinning. A pair of Channellock pliers (preferably curved jaw) is useful after they break loose and for reinstallation. I haven't needed anything much to hold the blade. Often used Channellock "Big Azz" to grab the pulley itself. Gotta be careful not to scratch the belt-ridden surface, or clean it up when you do.

I have two methods of straightening the stems on the forks. One is with an old hand-pumped conduit bender. It works best on the ones that aren't bent real close to either end of the stem. The other is a cobblefabbed thick steel plate welded to an insert for my receiver hitch on the truck. Poke the stem through the hole and with a long heavy square tube to apply pressure it works well. For odd bends, a 12# hammer and appropriate support works OK.

Here's link to one of the decks I refurbed:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...rfm-restoration.html?highlight=caroni+rebuild

Approx diam of pulley is 9 inches. Approx width is 1 5/8. I do not have it off yet to see the shaft size. Thanks, I do not have the time right now to do an outstanding job of restoring this mower as you did. Id only like to get it operational whilst doing a correct long lasting job.

 

[1930]

Im trying to get the blades loose, at this point the nut is turning and so is the pulley up top but of course the blade has been stopped from turning. I do not know the direction of loosening so I have tried it both ways with the same results. Does not turn easily in either direction.

Any suggestions?

Obviously the bade is not indexed anyway on the shaft and the shaft is just spinning which makes no sense. Id guess the blades have never been removed. Badly abused mower.

Not only the shaft on the forks are bent but the forks themselves. Junk

They really should have made a few flat spots for a wrench

Edit: I thought to myself as I typed that I needed to look closer and yes there are flat spots and I have one loosened now thankfully. Im gonna do the others

 

[the old grind]

I would soak those blade bolts o'night and use an impact wrench. No fun if you snap off one of the heads.

Skip WD-40 and go for PBlaster, Kroil, 50/50 ATF & acetone, Breakaway, Gibbs, Free All, Mouse Milk, even Windex.

Apply sparingly several times on both sides of the blades.

Keep bearings in mind if you add a hammer-smack to each bolt-head before you muscle on 'em.

 

[1930]

I would soak those blade bolts o'night and use an impact wrench. No fun if you snap off one of the heads.

Skip WD-40 and go for PBlaster, Kroil, 50/50 ATF & acetone, Breakaway, Gibbs, Free All, Mouse Milk, even Windex.

Apply sparingly several times on both sides of the blades.

Keep bearings in mind if you add a hammer-smack to each bolt-head before you muscle on 'em.

Thanks but they came off kinda sorta easy once I was able to find the flat spots behind the blade to place my wrench.