Should limited hyd. top link range be biased to longer or shorter?

[braccet]

Hi all, new Kioti CK2620SE Cab tractor owner here! Hope my title made sense. I didn't know if this was better for this forum or the hydraulics forum, but since it's more of a general question on length (I have the hydraulics part figured out), figured I'd put it here.

Basically, the situation is that my stock top link goes from 18" to 30" in length. Hydraulic top links are available in two sizes that I can easily find: 18-26 and 21-32. So the question is, should I bias my pick towards the shorter end of the OEM range or the longer end?

Currently I actually have the 18-26 freshly installed on my tractor. I attached a photo showing it fully extended on my Woodmaxx flail mower. You can see that at full extension, the top pin is not very far beyond the bottom pins (2-3"?). And you can see that when fully retracted, it would be quite a bit behind them.

I'd like a bit more tilt out of my flail mower for when it's muddy so the skids don't dig in constantly, but before I swap, just wanted to check to make sure I'm not sacrificing some other implement by losing 3" of max "inward" tilt. The flail mower is the only implement I have so far. Box blade is next. Do you typically need more "outward" tilt than "inward" tilt on a box blade?

Are there any other 3 point implements out there that require a lot of inward tilt? Just trying to cover my bases.

Thanks!

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have a quick-tach on my tractor and I drilled a second hole so I could either have it "short" or "long". Most of the time I'm in the "short" position. YMMV

 

[jjeff]

Stroke matters, if your handy you can modify where the top link pins to the implement to get the desired pitch or angle you want if the stroke is to short or the cylinder retracted is to much.

 

[WinterDeere]

Why not just test each of your current implements with the existing screw-type top link, to determine the range of lengths you need, and then center the available travel of the new one upon that range? I think that's what I did, back when I chose mine, not trusting the OEM or dealer really put such effort into selecting the original.

 

[braccet]

Why not just test each of your current implements with the existing screw-type top link, to determine the range of lengths you need, and then center the available travel of the new one upon that range? I think that's what I did, back when I chose mine, not trusting the OEM or dealer really put such effort into selecting the original.

That's my issue, I don't have implements yet, only the flail mower. I'm asking for advice from the more experienced folks here

Does a box blade generally need more "forward" tilt than "rearward" tilt? I've tried, but cannot seem to find head-on images of box blades mounted and angled at the appropriate limits.

 

[WinterDeere]

Any possibility to hold off on buying the top link, until you have your implements, or do you need to choose it now?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I think that you will find that the 18"-26" unit will serve you better.
I typically provide an 18"-25" unit with my top & tilt sets.

 

[scootr]

That's my issue, I don't have implements yet, only the flail mower. I'm asking for advice from the more experienced folks here

Does a box blade generally need more "forward" tilt than "rearward" tilt? I've tried, but cannot seem to find head-on images of box blades mounted and angled at the appropriate limits.

Box blade operation uses more downward tilt than upward.

 

[braccet]

Box blade operation uses more downward tilt than upward.

Thank you sir. By "downward", do you mean tilted like my photo, or the opposite way?

 

[braccet]

I think that you will find that the 18"-26" unit will serve you better.
I typically provide an 18"-25" unit with my top & tilt sets.

Would have loved top and tilt but my tractor only has two rear valves, and I need one for the hydraulic shift on my mower! Maybe some day I'll add the electronic diverter ($$$) to get 3.