Mowing Should know better about mowing with BX2350, but...

[LBrown59]

1* I mow w/a BX23 w/a 60" MMM and with both the FEL &BH removed and I get a very nice finish cut.
2*4 acres once a week (sometimes every other week depending on rainfall).
Engine RPM. Blade tip speed is the key to a good cut and the higher the blade tip speed the better. In order to get the best and optimum blade tip speed one needs to run the engine at it's rated PTO speed which for the BX is approx. 3000 rpm.
3*On my BX23 this is a hair or two under WOT.
4*Some claim to get a great mow at less than PTO rated speed and if so good for them but, both the engine and MMM are designed to run at PTO rated rpm and I'm sure Kubota designed it this way on purpose;D
Traveling speed has a lot to do with the finish cut also.
5*Lastly I've seen it documented that one will get the best cut and finish if one doesn't take more than 1/2" off on the cut. I normally cut @ 1/2" to 1" and get pretty good results.
!!!!!!!
Good luck

!!!!!!!
1*I use 2 mowers BX23 60'' / BX1500 48''.
I mow with the fel and bh on the BX23.
The BX 1500 just has the mower on when mowing.
I see no cut quality difference between the two tractors.
2*I mow about 2/3 of my 2.33 acres on the 10th 20th and 30th of the month. The other third gets mowed on the 15th of the month.
3*I run fast enough that the engine don't lug or strain but under WOT.
4*I do. Tried it both ways seen no difference in cut quality so slowed it back down to where I don't have to listen to what sounds like a racing engine.
5*I take off what ever's there over 4'' on the date I mow.

 

[TheFlatlander]

I mow w/a BX23 w/a 60" MMM and with both the FEL & BH removed and I get a very nice finish cut. When I mow each row in opposite diections I even get the taletale "stripeing" so coveted by many mowers. Course it's too a lesser extend than a mower setup with rollers but it does provide a clearly visable stripeing effect. Even tho I got a pretty good cut w/the OEM std blades, I get better lift and disbursion w/the gatorblades I adapted two seasons ago and I mow the front lawn @ 3" and the back field @ 3.5".
From what I've read here and on other sites, if one wants very visable stripes it's best to cut @ 4".
I post this just to indicate that the BX can & will give a great cut when set up correctly.

A couple of easy checks to make sure you're setup correctly.

Air pressure HAS to be equal. The two backs have to be the same and the two fronts have to be the same. If not the tractor will lean and this will show in the cut.

The side to side measurement on the mower has to be the same. You have to measure at the blade tips and not at the MMM frame.
You adjust the side to side via the down links where they clamp into the MMM. On my 60" MMM you un-pin the link from the MMM and turn it up to raise or down to lower.

The front to back measurement should have the front blade tip approx 1/4" lower than the back. Basically the MMM cuts on the front swing and re-cuts the cut clippings on the back swing. The adjustment for this is via turning in the adjustment nut(s) to raise and/or out to lower, on the MMM's front link where it attached to the quick connect on the front of the tractor.

I find that I've had to readjust my MMM's side to side after each season from the wear and tear of finish mowing upto 4 acres once a week (sometimes every other week deoending on rainfall).

Engine RPM. Blade tip speed is the key to a good cut and the higher the blade tip speed the better. Inorder to get the best and optimum blade tip speed one needs to run the engine at it's rated PTO speed which for the BX is approx 3000 rpm. On my BX23 this is a hair or two under WOT.
Some claim to get a great mow at less than PTO rated speed and if so good for them but, both the engine and MMM are designed to run at PTO rated rpm and I'm sure Kubota designed it this way on purpose ;D
Traveling speed has alot to do with the finish cut also.
Since our BX's don't produce the same blade tip speeds as the commercial mowers get we can't expect to mow at the same spped as they do and still get an excellent finish cut. For most if not all non-commercial mowers, the slower the better and the taller the grass the slower we should go conversely the shorter the grass the faster we can go

Lastly I've seen it documented that one will get the best cut and finish if one doesn't take more than 1/2" off on the cut. I normally cut @ 1/2" to 1" and get pretty good results.

Good luck

Excellent post!

 

[Tom_H]

When I mow each row in opposite diections I even get the taletale "stripeing" so coveted by many mowers.

D.T. I'm just trying to get the correct visualization here. Are you saying you do a 180 degree turn and come back in the opposite direction parallel to and immediately adjacent (side by side) to the previous pass, or are you describing the "checkerboard" pattern obtained by making passes that are perpendicular to each other?

 

[Volfandt]

D.T. I'm just trying to get the correct visualization here. Are you saying you do a 180 degree turn and come back in the opposite direction parallel to and immediately adjacent (side by side) to the previous pass,

Yes Tom, thats how I do my front lawn most times. The back grows faster so I mow it differently most times.

or are you describing the "checkerboard" pattern obtained by making passes that are perpendicular to each other?

Sometimes when I want to fancy the place up a bit for cookouts etc., I'll cut the stripes 1st then go back perpendicular to get the checkerboard pattern. But not very often. It mainly depends on how much time I want to spend on it.

If the grass gets too tall or about every 3rd mowing I don't mow for stripes, I mow for bagging. I start by "cutting in" the yard then continuing to mow in the same direction working towards the center. I'll generally end up with 1 long windrow in the front and two to three very long windrows in the back. I'll then hookup the cyclone rake and go and pick the windrows up. Thats how I pick leaves too.
The clippings make great compost for the next yr.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

One more thing make sure the floor you are doing all this measuring on is flat! My garage floor has a pitch from the front to the back so water can exit the garage. I have to place the rear tires on top of 3/4 " plywood to get the tractor level.