Shifting gears on L3200DT Newby question

[TSE]

Hi folks. New guy here. Just bought a very nice 2011 L3200DT. It's my first tractor and I'm trying to make sure I don't do anything wrong to it. After reading the manual and driving it around for a few minutes, I'm unsure of something. Do I always change into a different gear only when stopped? Then start out in that gear? I assume I'm only selecting gears based on the job at hand? Lower for ground work on up to the highest for just going from point A to point B, but always starting out from a stop?

Thanks for any info for a dumb newby. I searched old threads for a while before I posted this question. I know how irritating it can be for the same questions to come up over and over again. I've lurked here for a little while and appreciate the standards of the site.

 

[jeff9366]

Do I always change into a different gear only when stopped?

YES.

Stop, then shift gears.

 

[Grandad4]

Hi folks. New guy here. Just bought a very nice 2011 L3200DT. It's my first tractor and I'm trying to make sure I don't do anything wrong to it. After reading the manual and driving it around for a few minutes, I'm unsure of something. Do I always change into a different gear only when stopped? Then start out in that gear? I assume I'm only selecting gears based on the job at hand? Lower for ground work on up to the highest for just going from point A to point B, but always starting out from a stop?

Yes. Unlike the automotive world, where gear shifting is used to build highway speeds, a tractor generally has enough torque to start out in any gear so upshifting on the go isn't necessary.

Always exceptions of course and some tractors have fully synchronized trannies. If you get into bigger equipment shift on the go is pretty standard.

 

[TSE]

Thanks guys. The manual was a little unclear and since I bought it second hand, I was on my own. I managed to mow my small 4 acre field without breaking anything. Appreciate the help!

 

[Grandad4]

With that covered, you might also contemplate what it means for climbing and descending slopes. You don't want to discover you picked too high a gear when you're in the middle of the hill because that's a really bad place to be shifting! First, you're losing your momentum. Second, you're counting on your rear-only brakes to hold the tractor whilst you stir the gearbox. Third, if the brakes can't hold while you're in neutral between gears, you're likely going on a whoopee ride or worse down the hill. Fourth, use your 4wd on the hills so your braking on the rears will also control the fronts, giving you 4 wheel braking as long as it's in gear and the clutch pedal is not depressed.

No question is too basic to ask.

 

[TSE]

Thanks Grandad. I used four low 4wd and crawled up and down just in case. My access to my bottom area isn't real steep but after reading all the advice I wasn't taking any chances...

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Thanks for any info for a dumb newby. I searched old threads for a while before I posted this question. I know how irritating it can be for the same questions to come up over and over again. I've lurked here for a little while and appreciate the standards of the site.

The dumb question is the one NOT asked

<snip>
No question is too basic to ask.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

And then there is another term to throw into the equation "shuttle shift"

Shuttle shift does indeed allow you to go from forward to reverse in whatever gear you're using. It generally does require the use of clutch. The big advantage is that you then have multiple reverse speeds as compared to other models that may have 1 - 4 forward + reverse. (I'm thinking 9N here). This is good for loader work - however I've found hydraulic drive to be far better.
Mike

And there is

TORRANCE, Calif. – A hydraulic shuttle transmission with hydraulic wet clutch has been added to Kubota's “tough as nails” M5700 and M6800 loader tractors.

Kubota's hydraulic shuttle transmission allows for smooth and quick shifting between forward and reverse without the need to push in the clutch. The hydraulic shift lever is located within easy reach of the steering column. The 4-speed main shift is fully synchronized, in combination with the high/low range provides 8 forward and 8 reverse speeds. With the optional creep speed kit installed, gear range increases to 12 forward and 12 reverse.

 

[TSE]

Yep. I bought this one because it was so clean and the price was reasonable. I almost bought a new L3301 but after the tax and add ons it would have come out to almost $9000 more. And I am happy to have avoided the newest emissions control stuff.

 

[newbury]

And now you have $9,000 you can spend on ATTACHMENTS!!!

 

[Gordon Gould]

Maybe you will say I am doing it wrong but in low range I shift at a stop or near stop. In high range I shift just like a motor vehicle always starting in 1st. Low is my work range and high is a travel range for my use.

gg

 

[TSE]

Couple other questions regarding mowing with a rotary cutter. I guess I need to adjust the front of the mower a little higher. My ground is pretty rough and sometimes it will dig in a bit. Occasionally enough to bog down the tractor and lower the engine rpms. Should I be picking up the mower deck with the 3 point when this happens or letting it run through that terrain for the few seconds it takes? I'm sure the tractor is tough but I'd hate to be destroying it by not knowing what I'm doing.

Also, I'm trying to understand the lever position for mowing. I should have it on the lowest setting because that is the float position? Or do I set it a little higher with the three point lever to keep it from digging in? Or is setting it's height only a function of the rear wheel (which I have touching the ground) and the top bar of the three point?

I've read a lot of pages here and on other sites and it seems there is some conflicting information.. Overall I just want to make sure I don't hurt the tractor. The mower is tight side to side so that it won't get into the tires. The shaft seems to have enough travel fore and aft to allow for any movement it needs on the terrain. All zircs have been greased. All fluids checked on the tractor and the mower. My only question is the front height adjustment and the bogging issue. Do I set it higher with the lever or leave it in float? Is bogging it down harming the hydraulics of the tractor. Am I explaining myself well enough to understand? And what will happen on the next episode of Soap?

 

[repete]

I am not exactly sure what you mean by the "float" position being all the way down. On my L2550DT the lever sets how far down the three point is allowed to go. It will "float" upward at any point in the adjustment. Have you adjusted your cutter to have a 6" cutting height? If the trailing wheel is adjusted for 6" then you level with the three point control lever.

Is the cutter new? Are the blades sharpened correctly.

In regard to the shifting issue, when in low range I stop. When in high range I start in first or second then shift to third and then fourth while rolling. To try to start from a stop in 4H is difficult to do and hard on the clutch.

Post a picture of you setup.

 

[TSE]

Thanks for the reply. The manual for the mower and the tractor tell me to position the lift lever to the float position which is the lowest position. Today I mowed a little more and just left the lever up off the bottom a bit. I positioned it until the wheel was just touching the ground and the front of the mower was an inch or so of the ground. On the scale of the lever that was about the 3 to 4 position. When I got to uneven terrain I just raised the mower a bit. It seemed to work well that way. I was just under the impression that it needed to be down all the way and it would ride along the ground where it needed to be.

Can't post a picture at the moment but it seems everything is set up correctly. The top link has a little play it it as directed. The side links are level and adjusted to not flop back and forth. It was/is the whole 3 point lever position that is confusing.

The mower is nearly new and the blades still look like new. My rocks are limestone so easier on the blade than rocks from other regions I would think and I'm doing my best to avoid them.

All in all I would think this tractor is probably way tougher than I could imagine. As long as I don't overheat it or run it with low fluids it will likely last me a lifetime as it will only mow about 5 acres 3 or 4 times a year and do a little other work here and there. Appreciate any other insights based on what I've shared if anything comes to mind.

 

[TripleR]

This might help, he left out the part where you adjust your tail wheel and top link to match height for the 3PH, but overall pretty good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Thfr3fChg

Here is an old TBM thread also: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/5990-how-do-i-adjust-bush.html

 

[DK35vince]

Maybe you will say I am doing it wrong but in low range I shift at a stop or near stop. In high range I shift just like a motor vehicle always starting in 1st. Low is my work range and high is a travel range for my use.

Your profile shows you have a 3010.
I thought 3010's were synchronized transmission, so you can shift on the go.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Your profile shows you have a 3010.
I thought 3010's were synchronized transmission, so you can shift on the go.

I do. But in low I don't do much shifting. I just start out in the gear I want to use and generally keep it there. As I said in high range I start out in first and shift up (or down) thru the gears like you would a p/u or car.