Shake Rattle And Roll

[PineRidge]

I hate rattles, /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif so today when I fired up the TC-40D I wasn't a happy camper. At 1500 RPM it sounded like a resonating heat shield on a catalytic converter. Above 1500 RPM the rattle was non-existent. So I reached for the creeper and rolled under the New Holland for a closer look. I finally determined that the left hand steel bar that is part of the FEL support and runs from the front FEL support to the rear of the tractor was vibrating against the end of the brake pedal shaft making a terrible racket, then I found out why. The two M16 X 2" bolts and nuts that secure the thick steel mount to the bottom of the ROPS were both now missing. At 50 hours I had completely gone over all the nuts and bolts including this pair but less than 150 hours later they were now both gone. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

So I made a trip to Ace Hardware and picked up two 5/8 X 2" grade 8 bolts, nuts and lock-washers and reassembled the bar using the longest 1/2" breaker bar that I owned. I would have used my impact wrench but space was limited in this particular area.

The replacement bolts immediately took care of all the noise and vibration. I don't know why they worked loose although I have been doing an awful lot of FEL work lately. I am going to make it a point to get under the tractor from this day forward at every 50 hour service to re-tighten all fasteners and I recommend that you all do the same.

I am also quite confident that I will find the lost bolts very, very soon. You see I just put on a sharpened pair of blades under my finish mower. Its amazing just what a sharp pair of blades will find in the grass when you mow. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[TMAC]

Well Mike it's good to here you quickly got the problem resolved. I reckon that would've made an aweful noise.

Speaking of noises I noticed Friday after my tractor had been delivered there was a noise when idealing that comes from the left side of the tractor down in front of my left foot around where the Hydraulic Oil Filter is. Kind of sounds like a valve clattering. I got off the tractor and held my hand on the hydralic line that runs to the filter. I could feel the vibration of the ticking sound when I held my finger tips against this line. Is this a normal functioning sound Mike? Anyone else here this same thing? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[hazmat]

<font color="blue">reassembled the bar using the longest 1/2" breaker bar that I owned. I would have used my impact wrench but space was limited in this particular area.
</font>

Might doesn't always make right. You should torque the bolts to the specs in your manual. If none are provided, look up max torques for a given bolt size & strength. Click here for a web torque table

Overtightening the bolts can cause them to fail prematurely. You'd be amazed how much force you can put on a bolt (just think screw type car jack).

Stepping off engineering soap box now. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Adding the lock washers should help.

 

[PineRidge]

Hazmat if I read correctly it looked to me to be 188 foot pounds of torque required for the bolts. That is exactly why I used a big breaker bar as I don't think I could do it with the short ratchet itself. We'll see what happens in the future. I don't think they'll be getting loose real soon.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue"> Speaking of noises I noticed Friday after my tractor had been delivered there was a noise when idealing that comes from the left side of the tractor down in front of my left foot around where the Hydraulic Oil Filter is. Kind of sounds like a valve clattering. I got off the tractor and held my hand on the hydralic line that runs to the filter. I could feel the vibration of the ticking sound when I held my finger tips against this line. Is this a normal functioning sound Mike? Anyone else here this same thing? </font>

Greg there is a certain amount of noise that is associated with a hydro. But the noise is usually a whine not clicking or clattering as you describe. You may want to do a double check to first be sure nothing has worked loose on your rig like the problem that I experienced. Watch your fingers when checking over any piece of running equipment. We want you to have all ten fingers when you finish your examination of your tractor. A loose or rattling part can transmit noises through the metal hydraulic lines so go slow as you check. I actually have a stethoscope with a metal tube on the end for hard to track noises. I picked them up at Harbor freight for a song and a dance.

Be careful as things as simple as the large pins and retainer clips that secure the FEL can and do rattle and vibrate when the tractor is in motion. Mine had me fooled until I pulled them off the tractor to be sure that the noise was indeed coming from them. Noises are sometimes very hard to isolate and troubleshoot.

 

[3_V_Dirt_Works]

My tractor has made the same type of noise you describe from day one. I was concerned about it and my dealer said it is just the hydraulic fluid going through the lines. This is normal and you don't need to worry about it.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( down in front of my left foot around where the Hydraulic Oil Filter is. Kind of sounds like a valve clattering )</font>

Greg, there's a ball checkvalve/ pressure bypass on top of your HST filter where the lines from the HST cooler attach. When the oil is cool or when you are at idle, the surging fluid causes the ball to lift and reseat. That's your rattle. This is a common "problem" with all Class III Boomers and was first discussed here way back in 2001, but I haven't searched for the original thread lately.

If you have less than perfect hearing like me, you can't even hear it. ...one of the few benefits of getting old. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Here's the link:
Is this noise normal?

 

[Soundguy]

Next time you are by napa or a store like that.. grab a tube of the green loctite.. or generic brand. Green is the one for 'already-assembled' nuts and bolts. The material penetrates the threads with capilary action.. then expands slightly as it cures..

I've added that after the fact to many things That I had repaired many times due to coming loose.. I love it.

Soundguy

 

[hazmat]

<font color="blue">Hazmat if I read correctly it looked to me to be 188 foot pounds of torque required for the bolts. That is exactly why I used a big breaker bar as I don't think I could do it with the short ratchet itself. We'll see what happens in the future. I don't think they'll be getting loose real soon. </font>

Guess I should have read the table I posted /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif.

Unless you've really been working out I bet you aren't over the 188 ft-lbs. (Assuming 18-24" breaker bar).

A 1/2" impact gun (depending on model) can deliver upwards of 400 ft-lbs of torque which would overstress the bolts.

 

[PineRidge]

<font color="blue">Greg, there's a ball checkvalve/ pressure bypass on top of your HST filter where the lines from the HST cooler attach. When the oil is cool or when you are at idle, the surging fluid causes the ball to lift and reseat. That's your rattle. This is a common "problem" with all Class III Boomers and was first discussed here way back in 2001, but I haven't searched for the original thread lately.

If you have less than perfect hearing like me, you can't even hear it. ...one of the few benefits of getting old. </font>

I may have the same noise on my TC-40D but like Jim my hearing isn't what it used to be. Some things I just don't hear at all. When it comes to listening to my wife my hearing gets even more selective. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif