Sewer Repair

[Dwellonroof]

I have a problem with sewer backup/running slow so I tried to auger it but hit a dead end @ about 45' from clean-out so I purchased a 1/4" jetter hose with nozzle for my 3700 psi power washer which went through but
with a lot of giggling in and out. When I removed the hose it had clay marks on it telling me I have a bigger problem so I called The Underground Detective Company and had them run a camera to view the problem but he could not get through the break/root/or??
to see what is going on so I'm at the point of digging and here is my thinking.
1. The plumber wants minimum $2000 to dig 8' down and repair maybe a break.
2. The grade goes uphill and sewer goes down so if we o further we go deeper which is more money $$$.
3. Should I stick with the plumber or rent/purchase a used backhoe and do it myself. BTW it crosses a gas line and a water main.
4. It does flow but backs up a little at the floor drain in the basement so should I wait and see if it gets worse and maybe use the jetter again ?
Any other thoughts?

 

[radios1]

a sewer is owned by a local jurisdiction, city, town, or county. it runs to the sewer pipe in the road. they should fix it for free.. it's theirs..

 

[orezok]

a sewer is owned by a local jurisdiction, city, town, or county. it runs to the sewer pipe in the road. they should fix it for free.. it's theirs..

Typically the sewer on your side of the P/L is yours. Not sure where this problem is located.

 

[orezok]

a sewer is owned by a local jurisdiction, city, town, or county. it runs to the sewer pipe in the road. they should fix it for free.. it's theirs..

Typically the sewer on your side of the P/L is yours. Not sure where this problem is located.

 

[dennis103]

Sounds to me like the plumber is the best choice. He will get dig safe to mark it for him. The responsibility of a punctured water or gas main doesn't seem worth it to me. I'm not sure if a punctured gas main would just leak or if it might BOOM.

 

[MossRoad]

Typically the sewer on your side of the P/L is yours. Not sure where this problem is located.

Same thing here. If the clog is on your side of the property line, it's your problem and your cost.

 

[MossRoad]

I have a problem with sewer backup/running slow so I tried to auger it but hit a dead end @ about 45' from clean-out so I purchased a 1/4" jetter hose with nozzle for my 3700 psi power washer which went through but
with a lot of giggling in and out. When I removed the hose it had clay marks on it telling me I have a bigger problem so I called The Underground Detective Company and had them run a camera to view the problem but he could not get through the break/root/or??
to see what is going on so I'm at the point of digging and here is my thinking.
1. The plumber wants minimum $2000 to dig 8' down and repair maybe a break.
2. The grade goes uphill and sewer goes down so if we o further we go deeper which is more money $$$.
3. Should I stick with the plumber or rent/purchase a used backhoe and do it myself. BTW it crosses a gas line and a water main.
4. It does flow but backs up a little at the floor drain in the basement so should I wait and see if it gets worse and maybe use the jetter again ?
Any other thoughts?

First, check and see if it's legal to do your own work in your area. Here, you have to be a licensed plumber to do any work like that.

Next, anything over something like 4-5' deep should require shoring. 8' down is "die in a trench" territory.

Third, gas lines and water mains will be the responsibility of the plumber.

I'd let them do it.

 

[Dwellonroof]

My responsibility starts where the lateral ends right next to the road, the sewer main is across the street.

 

[3Ts]

First, check and see if it's legal to do your own work in your area. Here, you have to be a licensed plumber to do any work like that.

Next, anything over something like 4-5' deep should require shoring. 8' down is "die in a trench" territory.

Third, gas lines and water mains will be the responsibility of the plumber.

I'd let them do it.

My uncle was a plumber and he had a trench collapse on him. He survived. I won't work in a trench that puts my waist below ground level. If you've never worked in a trench deeper than 4' to 5' I suggest you work with someone else first to see what it is like before deciding to do it yourself.

Myself, with the gas and water lines and the depth you're talking about, I'd pay what your plumber is asking. Actually, I'd pay twice what he's asking for what you've described.

 

[Peter 315]

Anything deeper then 5 feet you need trench box or shoring OSHA law .... And you have to call dig safe for them to mark out all the utilities........

 

[fried1765]

a sewer is owned by a local jurisdiction, city, town, or county. it runs to the sewer pipe in the road. they should fix it for free.. it's theirs..

NOT TRUE!
Not even close!
The sewer line from a residence to the street side stub, is the sole responsibility of the homeowner.
Local jurisdictions do not replace/repair sewer or water lines on private property.

 

[MossRoad]

Anything deeper then 5 feet you need trench box or shoring OSHA law .... And you have to call dig safe for them to mark out all the utilities........

OSHA doesn't apply to home owners. But common sense should. Don't get in a hole.

 

[Bigb56]

Instead of hiring the plumber to do a job where the excavation is by far the hardest part why don't you hire a professional excavator to dig it up then hire the plumber to fix it or you fix it, replacing the whole line with ABS is a cake walk. The professional excavator will get the blue stake or whatever they go by in your area which will relieve responsibility if any public utilities are hit if he stays away from the marked areas. If it's your own utilities that get hit it will be up to you to repair. I use a professional excavator all the time for underground electrical mains, makes my job very easy and stress free.

 

[Dwellonroof]

Instead of hiring the plumber to do a job where the excavation is by far the hardest part why don't you hire a professional excavator to dig it up then hire the plumber to fix it or you fix it, replacing the whole line with ABS is a cake walk. The professional excavator will get the blue stake or whatever they go by in your area which will relieve responsibility if any public utilities are hit if he stays away from the marked areas. If it's your own utilities that get hit it will be up to you to repair. I use a professional excavator all the time for underground electrical mains, makes my job very easy and stress free.

That's an idea, I can rent a trench box for $400 per week.

 

[Peter 315]

If you hire a company to dig the trench they should have a trench box....

 

[dougtrr2]

... When I removed the hose it had clay marks on it telling me I have a bigger problem so I called The Underground Detective Company and had them run a camera to view the problem but he could not get through the break/root/or??
to see what is going on so I'm at the point of digging and here is my thinking.
1. The plumber wants minimum $2000 to dig 8' down and repair maybe a break.
2. The grade goes uphill and sewer goes down so if we o further we go deeper which is more money $$$.
3. Should I stick with the plumber or rent/purchase a used backhoe and do it myself. BTW it crosses a gas line and a water main.
4. It does flow but backs up a little at the floor drain in the basement so should I wait and see if it gets worse and maybe use the jetter again ?
Any other thoughts?

What did the camera see?? If he can't get past it, that is probably your problem. Could they run the camera from the street side?
I can almost guarantee it will get worse. But it will wait for the most inopportune time to rear its ugly head.

I am too old to mess with that stuff, I would just hire the plumber. But I would also get an estimate before he starts to replace the entire line. You mentioned clay marks. Is there any chance the line is still some of that orangeburg stuff that was put in years ago? When it starts failing you are pretty well doomed. But there are companies that can pull a new line inside the old one without digging it all up.

Good luck.

Doug in SW IA

 

[fried1765]

What did the camera see?? If he can't get past it, that is probably your problem. Could they run the camera from the street side?
I can almost guarantee it will get worse. But it will wait for the most inopportune time to rear its ugly head.

I am too old to mess with that stuff, I would just hire the plumber. But I would also get an estimate before he starts to replace the entire line. You mentioned clay marks. Is there any chance the line is still some of that orangeburg stuff that was put in years ago? When it starts failing you are pretty well doomed. But there are companies that can pull a new line inside the old one without digging it all up.

Good luck.

Doug in SW IA

"clay marks" would not be an indication of Orangeburg.
Orangeburg is not orange, it is black, and is in fact made from compressed paper and asphalt.

 

[Praff990]

You would need a decent sized excavator to dig that deep and set a trench box, something Iike a Cat 308 or Komatsu PC88. A good sized extendable boom backhoe would work as well. If you do it yourself get reinforced ferncos and plenty of gravel to put around the repair. Hiring the plumber would probably be cheaper than a weeks worth of equipment and trench box rental.

Definitely call 811 before you dig, and remember they get 18 inches on each side of the mark where if you break it you are at fault and not them. I don稚 recommend digging around any utilities without some experience. There is a difference between digging and digging around live utilities.

 

[fried1765]

You would need a decent sized excavator to dig that deep and set a trench box, something Iike a Cat 308 or Komatsu PC88. A good sized extendable boom backhoe would work as well. If you do it yourself get reinforced ferncos and plenty of gravel to put around the repair. Hiring the plumber would probably be cheaper than a weeks worth of equipment and trench box rental.

Definitely call 811 before you dig, and remember they get 18 inches on each side of the mark where if you break it you are at fault and not them. I don稚 recommend digging around any utilities without some experience. There is a difference between digging and digging around live utilities.

I would guess that the only thing likely to be "live" around a sewer pipe is the bacteria, inside the pipe.
The "Dig Safe" markings should indicate where "live" electricity is.

 

[ultrarunner]

We have no choice but to replace private laterals upon sale if clay, Orangeburg, cement asbestos, cast iron, etc.

Digging rarely happens as Burst Pipe method is used 99% of the time... do it once with continuous seamless pipe,