Bird
Rest in Peace
Danny, it's Rid-X and you can buy it at every supermarket I know of around here.
Septic tank, what is normal?
- Thread starter Mosey
- Start date
- Views: 5505
Bayrat
Silver Member
I pump mine every three years, $80 if I do the digging. The original owner (that took the light bulbs out of the lamps and the partitioning wall in the garage along with him when he moved) never pumped it in the 15 years he was here. The honey sucker man told we JUST got to it in time. The grease was about to go into the lines under the baffle. The distribution box was deteriated to the point I had to replace it. Just a bit curious, how are the state inspectors /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif going to check to make sure you actually pump every three years /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif? Suppose they will be installing sewar cams /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Slamfire
Veteran Member
The one at my brother's place is in its 47th year of not being pumped. Add a little of the bacteria/enzyme from time to time and forget about it. I'll bet I was 16 years old before anybody in our neighborhood even saw a septic pump truck.
RobS
Super Member
Ugghhhh... septic problems.
Our current neighborhood is part of a high population density suburb with all well and septic. Our house is 12 years old and we've had the septic pumped every couple of years. More than half the homes in our neighborhood have had the field systems replaced lately.
We just got the results of the inspections our home buyer ordered and the septic comes up "stressed". Technically not failed per Indiana state guidelines but on it's way. Failure is defined as liquid coming up through the yard, tank lid or backing up into the house. We've got none of that but the liquid level in the tank is above the outlet pipe to the field. We've had three opinions on it now and all the same. Solution is replace the field.
Apparently, there are multiple causes including inadequately sized field and high water use. The bacteria and such in the effluent liquid eventually seal the soil creating what they call a "biomat". It's dense and virtually impenetrable by the liquid. Once the liquid level in the tank rises, some of the solids that Danny saw in his tank will head out the pipe and further plug up the field system. It's no fun!
Sludge and such in the tank is normal, but make sure the liquid level is below the baffles and outlet pipe. Of course by the time you notice this it's too late so no real help there. Newer codes in this area require much larger systems. Our new house will have a bigger system and I'll eventually put in a drywell for the laundry and water softener water (backhoe justification /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ). Oddly enough, when my mom sold our family home after 19 years, the septic was just fine. Had been pumped once in that whole time and the guy back then said it didn't need it. Maybe it is the more modern soaps (anti-bacterial) and generally higher water useage these days.
Whatever the case, it's causing us some heartburn as we get ready to close the deal on this house /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Our current neighborhood is part of a high population density suburb with all well and septic. Our house is 12 years old and we've had the septic pumped every couple of years. More than half the homes in our neighborhood have had the field systems replaced lately.
We just got the results of the inspections our home buyer ordered and the septic comes up "stressed". Technically not failed per Indiana state guidelines but on it's way. Failure is defined as liquid coming up through the yard, tank lid or backing up into the house. We've got none of that but the liquid level in the tank is above the outlet pipe to the field. We've had three opinions on it now and all the same. Solution is replace the field.
Apparently, there are multiple causes including inadequately sized field and high water use. The bacteria and such in the effluent liquid eventually seal the soil creating what they call a "biomat". It's dense and virtually impenetrable by the liquid. Once the liquid level in the tank rises, some of the solids that Danny saw in his tank will head out the pipe and further plug up the field system. It's no fun!
Sludge and such in the tank is normal, but make sure the liquid level is below the baffles and outlet pipe. Of course by the time you notice this it's too late so no real help there. Newer codes in this area require much larger systems. Our new house will have a bigger system and I'll eventually put in a drywell for the laundry and water softener water (backhoe justification /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif ). Oddly enough, when my mom sold our family home after 19 years, the septic was just fine. Had been pumped once in that whole time and the guy back then said it didn't need it. Maybe it is the more modern soaps (anti-bacterial) and generally higher water useage these days.
Whatever the case, it's causing us some heartburn as we get ready to close the deal on this house /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
If you have a laundry dumping into the septic tank, and or a garbage disposal, you will need to pump more frequently. Both bleach and grease are tough on a tank's digestive processes.
The layer of crud at the bottom is basicly an accumulation of dead and used up bacteria, along with their digestive waste.
Washing machines discharge fibers into the tank,along with toilet paper, and bacteria really don't break down either of these items. Kitchen sinks discharge grease, which suffocates tank bacteria.
Things like sanitary napkins and tampons will remain in a tank, unchanged forever.
Soaps from handwashing along with showers also kill off bacteria, and when combined with grease, accomplish their task sooner.
While replenishing bacteria with things like Rid-X seems like a good idea, but the same thing can be accomplished, for a lot less cost, using ordinary household yeast.
Boosting bacteria can have serious consequences, creating excess gasses. It will also build a false sense of tank performence.
Leach fields wear out by contamination. The liquid leaving the septic tank is not clear water, it carrys microbes and what they are munching on. If you've ever dug into a leach line, the aroma alone will convince you. without bothering to sample the tank. Over time, the stone surrounding the leach line will coat with sludge, and fail to function. Over 20 years or longer, sufficient sludge and slime will accumulate on the stone to render the leach line a closed tube, rather than the conductor it was intended to be. Sand bed systems plug up faster than conventional leach fields.
How often you need to pump is based on how the system is used, and what is put into it. A tank that is functioning properly will have a scummy looking coating on top, with obvious bubbles.
Pumping is one he!! of a lot cheaper than replacing!
The layer of crud at the bottom is basicly an accumulation of dead and used up bacteria, along with their digestive waste.
Washing machines discharge fibers into the tank,along with toilet paper, and bacteria really don't break down either of these items. Kitchen sinks discharge grease, which suffocates tank bacteria.
Things like sanitary napkins and tampons will remain in a tank, unchanged forever.
Soaps from handwashing along with showers also kill off bacteria, and when combined with grease, accomplish their task sooner.
While replenishing bacteria with things like Rid-X seems like a good idea, but the same thing can be accomplished, for a lot less cost, using ordinary household yeast.
Boosting bacteria can have serious consequences, creating excess gasses. It will also build a false sense of tank performence.
Leach fields wear out by contamination. The liquid leaving the septic tank is not clear water, it carrys microbes and what they are munching on. If you've ever dug into a leach line, the aroma alone will convince you. without bothering to sample the tank. Over time, the stone surrounding the leach line will coat with sludge, and fail to function. Over 20 years or longer, sufficient sludge and slime will accumulate on the stone to render the leach line a closed tube, rather than the conductor it was intended to be. Sand bed systems plug up faster than conventional leach fields.
How often you need to pump is based on how the system is used, and what is put into it. A tank that is functioning properly will have a scummy looking coating on top, with obvious bubbles.
Pumping is one he!! of a lot cheaper than replacing!
DocHeb
Veteran Member
Instead of a drywell, could you use a filter to separate out the laundry fibers and lint? See <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.laundry-alternative.com/septic1.html>The Septic Protector</A>. You might also consider using one of the newer front-load washers instead of the older top-loaders. The front-loaders use 66% less water, and will put less of a demand on the leach field.
I've been following all the septic field threads intently - we're building a new house, and we must have a "three-tank system with ejector forcemain pump to a remote deep-excavated engineered sand field" due to our soil conditions and county requirements. Let's see ... from my cyphering ... that's five adjectives in the description of the system .... at $8,000 an adjective ... yup - that's a $40,000 septic system we've got there /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. You can be sure I'm gonna have that puppy pumped prematurely to make it last forever!
I've been following all the septic field threads intently - we're building a new house, and we must have a "three-tank system with ejector forcemain pump to a remote deep-excavated engineered sand field" due to our soil conditions and county requirements. Let's see ... from my cyphering ... that's five adjectives in the description of the system .... at $8,000 an adjective ... yup - that's a $40,000 septic system we've got there /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif. You can be sure I'm gonna have that puppy pumped prematurely to make it last forever!
OP
Mosey
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,565
- Location
- Conifer, Colorado
- Tractor
- 2000 New Holland TC29D with 7308 FEL, and top & tilt. 1950 John Deere B. 1940 Farmall A.
Well, it's pumped. There was more sludge at the bottom than I thought - I should have used something with a bigger diameter to feel it better (I guess I'll use a broom stick next time and then sell at a garage sale!). It was really thick at the very bottom and the guy hosed it down while he was pumping to loosen it up some so it would pump easier. One thing is for sure, I won't have to worry about it over Memorial Day weekend since it will take a while to fill up the tank again.
By the way, anybody need a CB antenna? I’m done with it now!
By the way, anybody need a CB antenna? I’m done with it now!
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,610
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
What are you going to change your CB handle to now? /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
8NTX
Gold Member
Hmmm....seems to be quite a few experts on this board in the field of human waste management. Since we are on the subject, I have a question: We bought our place about 15 months ago...had an old septic system on it that hadn't been used for about 10 years. Had it checked out and it was pretty much empty. We have been using it all this time on weekends...but, after we bleached our dug well 15 months ago, we inadverdently let most of the bleach (4 gallons) go through the household drains. I know....dumb./w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif But so far, no real problems, however a few weeks ago we seem to be getting some "burping" in the toilet, air vibrations in water lines and/or drains after flushing, etc./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Put some rid-x in, but no changes. Any advice here? Thanks for your help.
OP
Mosey
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,565
- Location
- Conifer, Colorado
- Tractor
- 2000 New Holland TC29D with 7308 FEL, and top & tilt. 1950 John Deere B. 1940 Farmall A.
My advice is to get it pumped immediately! The Rid-X won’t solve the problem if the tank is already full of sludge.
TerryinMD
Veteran Member
Mosey,
The guy that did our pumping agitated the tank and its contents by running his pump in reverse. I believe that there was only one hose going into the tank.
He moved the hose back and forth to stir up the sludge on the bottom. He worked on it for about 5 minutes and then pumped all of the "goodies" out. Once that was done, he then washed the inside down with a hose, pumped out that, checked the front baffle to see that it was in good condition, and then packed up an left.
The whole operation took about 30 minutes and some of that included finding the lid. I had dug to the top of the tank but had trouble locating the lid.
It was well worth the $130. As a side note, I could also verify if any of the family members were depositing anything that shouldn't be there!! Two teenage girls and their friends who might not know any better. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
Terry
The guy that did our pumping agitated the tank and its contents by running his pump in reverse. I believe that there was only one hose going into the tank.
He moved the hose back and forth to stir up the sludge on the bottom. He worked on it for about 5 minutes and then pumped all of the "goodies" out. Once that was done, he then washed the inside down with a hose, pumped out that, checked the front baffle to see that it was in good condition, and then packed up an left.
The whole operation took about 30 minutes and some of that included finding the lid. I had dug to the top of the tank but had trouble locating the lid.
It was well worth the $130. As a side note, I could also verify if any of the family members were depositing anything that shouldn't be there!! Two teenage girls and their friends who might not know any better. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
Terry
RJohnson
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2000
- Messages
- 239
- Location
- Texas
- Tractor
- my 18 horse Sears doesn't even count as a tractor
Here is a great link <A target="_blank" HREF=http://swopnet.com/geo_wastewater_2000/machmeier/Machmeier_Care_n_Feed.html>http://swopnet.com/geo_wastewater_2000/machmeier/Machmeier_Care_n_Feed.html</A> about an article on the care and feeding of your septic tank. It is well written and easy to understand. It may be of some benefit to those having questions about their tanks.
Randy
Randy
StoneHeartFarm
Veteran Member
8NTX
Burping could be a plugged vent line, or the system may not have enough venting and may have always burped. The drain lines in the house have air in them. When you flush or run water in the sink, it displaces the air and the air has to go somewhere, hence the vents. The vents will also bleed off gasses that form in the tank and the traps on the sinks will prevent these same gasses from entering the dwelling.
The burping could also be because something is plugged (tank, field, etc). If say, flushing causes the sink to burble and flood, this is a possibility.
SHF
Burping could be a plugged vent line, or the system may not have enough venting and may have always burped. The drain lines in the house have air in them. When you flush or run water in the sink, it displaces the air and the air has to go somewhere, hence the vents. The vents will also bleed off gasses that form in the tank and the traps on the sinks will prevent these same gasses from entering the dwelling.
The burping could also be because something is plugged (tank, field, etc). If say, flushing causes the sink to burble and flood, this is a possibility.
SHF
Anonymous Poster
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 29,678
That isn't sludge floating on top, That was MR. HANKIE!!! Tell him I said "Hidee Hooo!" /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
I'm on my first septic system (almost 3 years now). I've seen "pump trucks" driving around the area and have always wondered....where does all the pumped sewage end up? I mean, what do the sewage pumpers do with it?
MossRoad
Super Moderator
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2001
- Messages
- 66,610
- Location
- South Bend, Indiana (near)
- Tractor
- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Around here they take it to the sewage plant at the nearest city and dump it there. They pay fees.
Although there was one guy a few years back that would just find the nearest manhole and dump it in.
Although there was one guy a few years back that would just find the nearest manhole and dump it in.
Dale Binkley
Bronze Member
Have read this thread with a great deal of enjoyment. We had a new system put in about five years ago. After installation the county health department gave us a manual "On-Lot Sewage Systems - An Owners Manual". It covers just about all of the questions that have been raised on this thread. Tells what can and cannot be put into the system, describes different systems and tells about maintaining drainfields and pumping the tanks. It is the most useful 16 page guide I have ever seen a governmental entity publish.
OP
Mosey
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2002
- Messages
- 1,565
- Location
- Conifer, Colorado
- Tractor
- 2000 New Holland TC29D with 7308 FEL, and top & tilt. 1950 John Deere B. 1940 Farmall A.
Sounds like a usefull document. If you start now you can get whole 16 pages re-typed into this thread before the weekend is over!
Seriously, what does it say about pumping?
Seriously, what does it say about pumping?
frank_f15
Super Member, Rest in Peace
DANNY: u will get a feel for when u need to have it pumped(no pun intended) the biggest thing is to not dump a lot of bleach, or grease, or certain kinds of toilet tisue in it. a lot of the tissue that is soft and feels good to ur private parts /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif is detremential to the system, all it does is swell up and not breakdown, i prefer to use a biodegradeable tissue(scotts) is my choice. i just last fall had to replace my septic system, it only lasted 52 years(dad had it installed) that is my summer project to get it leveled and seeded if it ever stops raining!/w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
We have been in our house/septic for over 5 years now. We have a low-pressure system with 2 tanks. We also have to have the system inspected twice a year(at over $100/per). The guy we had doing it on several occasions would "adjust" the float and within a day or 2 the alarm would go off. I'd have to go turn on the pump switch by hand and call him to get back out and fix what he had messed up. He would write us up for a scag tree in our field that had nesting woodpeckers and the hawks would use it for hunting saying he was afraid to walk under it.
Anyway, we fired him after finding out that the local University(NCSU) has a class <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/swetc/subsurface/subsurf.htm>http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/swetc/subsurface/subsurf.htm</A> for Homeowners who want to get certified to inspect thier own systems.
At least this way, I'll be assured that it's working up to snuff and I'll learn the tricks of the trade like the pro's.
I'll post any interesting things in this thread once I take the class. If anyone has any question they would like me to ask in the class, pass them along(email me) and I'll see what I can do.
gary
Anyway, we fired him after finding out that the local University(NCSU) has a class <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/swetc/subsurface/subsurf.htm>http://www.soil.ncsu.edu/swetc/subsurface/subsurf.htm</A> for Homeowners who want to get certified to inspect thier own systems.
At least this way, I'll be assured that it's working up to snuff and I'll learn the tricks of the trade like the pro's.
I'll post any interesting things in this thread once I take the class. If anyone has any question they would like me to ask in the class, pass them along(email me) and I'll see what I can do.
gary
