Securing tractor to trailer?

   / Securing tractor to trailer? #11  
I haul a Kubota L3010HST,fel,LR. To secure like most members already stated,I use clevis on rear draw bar grade 70 chain/binder combo. On the front I also use chain /binder combo through large forged Eye-bolt mounted to front of tractor. I personally do not like the use of nylon straps for securing tractors.
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #12  
I use chains and binders. On the front I run the chain from the side of the trailer around the front axle to the oposite side of the trailer and tighen the chain with a binder. On the back I put a 2" trailer ball throught the draw bar to prevent the chain from siding off now I attach the chain on one side of the trailer wrap it around the draw bar and down to the opposite side and use a binder to add tennsion to the chain. I have had cinches break loose (they stretch) so I stopped using them.
Leo
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #13  
I use chains and feel comfortable that way. I would only add to the other recomendations that you make sure you buy USA chain and hooks. I've heard of stress breaks on the hooks from China.

In addition to the rear and front tie downs I add a safety chain to the front axel going to D rings on the trailer bulkhead, then I drop the FEL over it. This provides extra safety against rolling backwards, the bulkhead would stop forward roll.

Mike
 

Attachments

  • 331075-Trailer frt tiedwn_crop.jpg
    331075-Trailer frt tiedwn_crop.jpg
    91.5 KB · Views: 1,631
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #14  
I haul backhoes and excavators on my trailer in addition to my CUT and the only thing on my trailer is grade 70 transport chains. I've got several in 5/16" and 3/8" and never had a problem with using them on my tractor. It took me a while to figure out a system that worked quickly and efficiently to secure my tractor, but I've got it down now. Once I got my system down, I make sure to use the same process every time. I figure if I go through the same process every time, it will become a habitat and I'll be less likely to forget something.
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #15  
I used to sell commercial accounts for a dealership, so most every day I had either a CUT, SSL or both aboard. Three inch ratchet straps (10,000# as I recall) work well for a lot of applications, but you can cut them up in a hurry if you're not careful. The trick is to use a generous chunk of doubled or tripled carpet scrap where the strap contacts the equipment. Chain through a clevis on the drawbar is bulletproof for the rear of a tractor. I prefer the ratchet style chain binders, as you can REALLY torque 'em down! It's important to triangulate your tie-down points to prevent movement fore and aft as well as side-to-side. As always when trailering, make sure you have at least 12% of your total loaded trailer weight on the ball.

GDB
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #16  
I use chains/binders, or ratchet straps depending on what I am hauling.

For the old Farmall, I use straps. The paint is nice, and chains scratch things. The farmall has rounded edges where I put the straps too.

The Kubota, I tried ratchet straps. Too many rough edges to abrade the straps. I went back to chains/binders for it.

The Bobcat, I use chains and binders only. Never tried strps on it.

Whatever you get, get good quality stuff. There is a lot of import stuff of questionable quality available. Don't skimp; it's a small price to pay considering you investment in equipment and trailer.
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #17  
I start with 10,000 lb straps for my L3010 and quickly found that they were frayiung from the sharp corners. I changed over to chain and binders and have not had any fears of straps breaking since then. I still use the straps for wood and other items I need don't like how the chain marks up the wood for my fencing project.
BradK
 
   / Securing tractor to trailer? #18  
I do a lot of hauling. It's been my experience that if you know what you're doing, straps will be fine. Most people don't use them properly, however, so chains are the way for them to go. Chains are far more forgiving about being abused but aren't near as easy to use or to tighten down properly. If you're going to buy chain, get grade 70 transport chain. It's very strong for the its weight and you'll appreciate that over the years, believe me.

AWDirect has been mentioned before here. If you're interested in what is, in my opinion, close to the best of both worlds, they have ratchet straps with chain ends. You get light weight, ease of storage/transport, durability at the points of contact and a simple ratchet to tighten everything down simply.

Good luck with whatever you decide. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
 
Top