Seafoams gets a +1, but i need 2cycle help

[FastPauly]

I am not suggesting that this is your particular problem but just want to throw it out there for consideration by all. Those darn Mud Daubers!!......they can be cause for bringing thousands of small engines to a no-run or ill-running condition every year. They seem to love those small holes on the mufflers of this type equipment. Over the years, I have brought several weed whackers, leaf blowers etc back to life by taking the muffler apart and cleaning out blocked passageways/arrestor screens........an engine can't run if it can't pass gas...:confused2:

.....just something to check if the whacker sort of wants to run but won't.

 

[thatguy]

I can see how that could be a problem.. I took mine apart last night to check and it appeared to be clean.. Even the screen (spark arrestor?) was good to go...

IF you had exhaust restriction problem.. Wouldnt it be all the time and not just after it warms up/gets hot?

Brian

I am not suggesting that this is your particular problem but just want to throw it out there for consideration by all. Those darn Mud Daubers!!......they can be cause for bringing thousands of small engines to a no-run or ill-running condition every year. They seem to love those small holes on the mufflers of this type equipment. Over the years, I have brought several weed whackers, leaf blowers etc back to life by taking the muffler apart and cleaning out blocked passageways/arrestor screens........an engine can't run if it can't pass gas...:confused2:

.....just something to check if the whacker sort of wants to run but won't.

 

[amaxwell]

Does that old tank have a "duckbill" vent to allow air to enter the tank? The old weedeaters used to have these. It was a small rubber valve that allowed air in but closed to not allow gas out.If it has this valve in the tank and it is stuck closed you are starving the engine for fuel.

 

[FastPauly]

Yea thatguy....a restricted exhaust would not present the symptoms you have explained.....although, a restricted exhaust will cause excessive heat that can spawn other problems. You state it starts and runs fine for a period of time....during the time that it runs, are you putting a load on it as in throttled up and whacking grass?

No secret that an IC engine needs to have 4 things to run;
1) Be mechanically sound (no internal component failures).
2) Fuel.
3) Air.
4) Ignition.

From what you explain, I would be looking at either a loss of fuel or ignition.

Fuel:
Do the fuel lines appear to hard and shrunken? This can be cause for small cracks to form where the hose slips on to barbed fittings.
I imagine the fuel pickup is of the "clunk" design.....it is weighted to allow the device to be ran at any angle. Has the fuel line hardened to the point that it will not always allow the clunk to fall to the bottom of the tank?
As others have stated, the diaphragm in the carb may need to be replaced and a good overall cleaning.
You have made sure that venting is not an issue.

Ignition:
Have you tried putting an in-line spark tester on it and observe it as it is running? If it quits flashing when the shutdown occurs then I would be heading down the ignition path. Is there a kill switch that could be the culprit?

Just some thoughts.....Good Luck.

 

[thatguy]

Does that old tank have a "duckbill" vent to allow air to enter the tank? The old weedeaters used to have these. It was a small rubber valve that allowed air in but closed to not allow gas out.If it has this valve in the tank and it is stuck closed you are starving the engine for fuel.

the 'duckbill' is the part i snipped off.. that did help some, now it runs 15 to 20 mins (instead of 10), but still cuts off.. BUT now i dump gas on my pants as the fuel sloshes around as you move it..

Brian

 

[Jim Thompson]

the 'duckbill' is the part i snipped off.. that did help some, now it runs 15 to 20 mins (instead of 10), but still cuts off.. BUT now i dump gas on my pants as the fuel sloshes around as you move it..

Brian

Check the filter screen inside the carb and while you have it disassembled, clean it and install new metering & fuel pump diaphragms ( carb kit = $10). You may want to do a compression test before you decide how much money and effort to expend. Echo builds an excellent engine and unless it has been used commercially or been abused, it is unlikely the engine is worn out. Get a new duckbill valve, that isn't the problem. :thumbsup:

Jim