scarifier

[mrmikey]

Just finished building a scarifier and attaching it to the ole tractor.




The angle that the pins attach to is 3 x 3 x 3/8, main frame is 3 x 3 x 1/4 tubing, the pipes that go thru for the teeth to go thru is 1 1/2 sch40, teeth are 1 1/2 dia, diagonal brace is 2 x 2 x 1/4, flat bar is 3 x 3/8.
The tray is for cement blocks for ballast, find them easier to work with that buckets or barrells. At 40 lbs each I've got 4 on my back blade it it works great.
I don't think she'll haul all 7 teeth thru really packed soil or a lot of roots, if not I can remove whatever teeth I have to as they're bolted in.
No comments on the painting, I wouldn't have bothered as I dispise paiting but my daughter always hassles me if I don't paint projects.

While I was making things I cobbled up a sway linkage. Sick and tired of the blade moving side to side.


Just some 1/4" chain and a couple of pad eyes I welded 5/8 bolts to to go thru the arms at the front and a couple of turnbuckles I had.

I made this over the winter.

It was a pain in the backside having to fasten the two torque chains as well as the lock sleeve on the pto pump, always seemed to be tight and semi-stuck. I removed the chains and the lock collar, drilled and bent a piece of 1/4" plate. Now the pump just slides on the pto shaft with no lock and I just drop the bolt thru the trailer hitch holes and I'm good to go.
.....Mike

 

[kebo]

Great job, but have you tried it yet?? Seems like unless you have down pressure on your lift, or you add lots of weight, that it would not dig very deep. There's no angle (or teeth really) on the tips of the scarifiers, so nothing to really force it downward when it's pulled. Course, I could be all wrong and it may dig very deep. Let us know how it works.

Oh yeah, I wonder about the chains for cross tension, never have seen that done before. That should keep it from swaying, but seems like it may need to flex a little bit from side-to-side whenever it hits something solid?

 

[mrmikey]

Haven't tried it yet, have to wait for the ground to dry up a bit.

Seems like unless you have down pressure on your lift, or you add lots of weight, that it would not dig very deep. There's no angle (or teeth really) on the tips of the scarifiers,

I intend to add cinder blocks to the tray to give it some down pressure. I did put a slight bend in the teeth so it should try to dig....I hope LOL. The bottoms are cut at a 45ｰ angle so the point load should make them dig in.

That should keep it from swaying, but seems like it may need to flex a little bit from side-to-side whenever it hits something solid?

They're not singin' tight, if I push sideways on the end of the framework it'll move...ohhh a couple of inches give or take. I agree, I didn't want it solid....Mike

 

[g0rd0]

I am impressed! You must have yourself quite the shop to work in:thumbsup:
Keep us informed on how well it works. If you think that It is not digging enough you can turn in the third point to angle the teeth, with a box blade if the third point is shortened it digs deeper so that should work there with your back scratcher

 

[Johndeere3720]

Nicely done! :thumbsup:

 

[Ductape]

That's slicker'n cat poop on linoleum ! :thumbsup:

 

[David Devuono]

I like the idea of round scarifiers. My comercial (cheap) box blade has 1/2 inch x 3 inch scarifiers and I pretzeled one when it caught a good root.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I am confused by what the cross turnbuckles are doing other than keeping the little bit of slop out of the ball joints to pin attachments. That would have been easier to accomplish with just some shim washers between the pins and the lift arm balls to take up the little bit of slack . It looks like the arms will still sway as much as the stabilizer bars or chains will allow. What am I missing on this?
I also think the pipe is going to be a weak point and will likely need to be replaced with solid steel. Pipe is pretty easily bent.
Let us know how it does when you get it in the ground.

 

[mrmikey]

Thanks for all the compliments/comments guys, much appreciated.

My comercial (cheap) box blade has 1/2 inch x 3 inch scarifiers and I pretzeled one when it caught a good root.

Origonally I was going to make the teeth from 3/4 x 3 flatbar which would have been easier, making the teeth part that is. The reason I didn't is that it would have been more work making the pockets for them to fit in. I'd have to make a pocket that was slightly oversize so they wouldn't bind up. The 1 1/2 bar and the 1 1/2 pipe combo had enoughslop so that seizing up isn't a problem.
I looked around work for some old actual scarifier teeth from graders but nothing was around. They have holes down the center so you can move them around, would have been the cats behind.
As for bending, I still think they could be bent and not all that hard to do neither, I'll just have to watch where I'm going (yeah right GBG).....Mike

**EDIT
You must have been posting when I was replying Gary

I am confused by what the cross turnbuckles are doing other than keeping the little bit of slop out of the ball joints to pin attachments. That would have been easier to accomplish with just some shim washers between the pins and the lift arm balls to take up the little bit of slack . It looks like the arms will still sway as much as the stabilizer bars or chains will allow. What am I missing on this?

I had more than a little bit of slop, when I was moving snow this winter the back blade would move well over 6" side to side. Wasn't bad except when you were trying to clear close to a car or some other obstical. I was concerned that the constant banging side to side would eventually bend or break something more so than a constant push pressure would.
Only way I can think to explain it is the geometry of the chains. If you push the back attachment to the left, the chain that's attached to the bottom left side of the angle is going to pull on the right link close to the machine. Since there's little room to move it tightens up. same going the other way.
I didn't want to use washers as it's more pieces to lose and with the chains I can give it a bit of movement if I want or tighten it right up. Not only than, if you depend on the washers to stop side to side play you're getting a lot of leverage via the arms, 2' or so to the machine. With the the chains the only leverage is the distance from the chain to the machine, 6" or so.
Actually, I don't think washers would work because of the balls on the end of the arms and the machine end.

I also think the pipe is going to be a weak point and will likely need to be replaced with solid steel. Pipe is pretty easily bent.

It is solid, 1 1/2" dia stressproof....Mike

 

[bikerdib]

Hey, I need to borrow your new implement; where you located. :thumbsup: