Hey guys, I will add some pictures tomorrow. Long story short. Got a free tiger cub. Has an almost brand new Briggs & Stratton 27hp professional motor on it. Really solid machine. Some how someone removed the chock lever and integrated it into the throttle lever. Why would they do this? Is it because the original engine wasn’t a B&S so there were some compatibility issues? So now all the way forward would be choked and slightly back would then be full throttle. It had new coils put on it last year. But it’s running rough. Under powered and spits like it’s choked. I’m slightly mechanically inclined and can get things done once you kind fellas point me in the right direction lol. I’m going to check the rpms tomorrow. But not sure what to do otherwise. Should I try to figure out how to get a real choke lever back in there? What kind of pictures do you guys need to be able to help? Thanks in advance.
Scag tiger cub running rough
- Thread starter Chieftm2
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WinterDeere
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- John Deere 3033R, 855 MFWD, 757 ZTrak; IH Cub Cadet 123
For most of the Briggs engines, there are multiple throttle plate options. So look up your engine and see if you're able to swap it over to a throttle plate that would be more compatible with your mower controls.
That said, just stopping the throttle short of the position where it closes the choke should work as a temporary measure. The Briggs Intek on my log splitter has this type of throttle plate, and I just throttle it up to where the throttle arm touches the choke actuator, but doesn't depress it. That's easy on a log splitter, but maybe not so easy with the engine hiding behind you on a mower.
That said, just stopping the throttle short of the position where it closes the choke should work as a temporary measure. The Briggs Intek on my log splitter has this type of throttle plate, and I just throttle it up to where the throttle arm touches the choke actuator, but doesn't depress it. That's easy on a log splitter, but maybe not so easy with the engine hiding behind you on a mower.
If I’m stopping the throttle short of it closing the choke it seems like it’s way under powered. Do you think this is a governer issues (low rpm’s) or related to the hack of a fix someone put on this thing? Really appreciate your insight.
Going to do done research on the throttle plate options as soon as I get home today
Going to do done research on the throttle plate options as soon as I get home today
WinterDeere
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Could be the engine has some other problem, but before diving into that, it’d be good to at least identify the linkage components and what they do, so you can determine when and where in throttle movement range the choke is closing.
oldnslo
Super Member
There might or should be adjustment on when the throttle engages the choke. You want engine at full RPM before choke is engaged. Some models had a little lip or detent so took a little extra push to go from throttle to choke.
Where is the adjustment? I’m struggling trying to figure out everything lol. I did confirm the choke is opening and closing completely. It’s opening all the way to that stop once I back it out of the choke position. Also rpms where at about 3000 which seem a little low. I’m having a hard time finding much info on the mower with that engine
oldnslo
Super Member
If my memory is correct there was more than one option on how the choke and throttle were integrated. Can you see what activates the choke? That is were I would start looking to see if there is some adjustment screw in that linkage assembly to allow throttle to rev higher before activating the choke.
Otherwise possibly take some pictures of that linkage assembly and that might trigger a memory for someone.
I think some of the older models also had a metal arm that you bent slightly to adjust when choke was activated.
Otherwise possibly take some pictures of that linkage assembly and that might trigger a memory for someone.
I think some of the older models also had a metal arm that you bent slightly to adjust when choke was activated.
WinterDeere
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You should be able to look up the spec's and parts diagrams using the engine model number. Post a photo of the engine label, and maybe we can help.
3000 rpm is a common maximum RPM for many of those engines, but some others are 3600 rpm. It's possible the prior owner of your machine re-powered a 3600 rpm machine with a 3000 rpm engine.
I was going to upload a short video so you guys could hear how it runs. Not sure if it’s just the junk Briggs but it sounds just a hair rough. Maybe too rich. Like I said I’m not a mechanic. Not even close. I just know enough to be extremely dangerous lol. As always, all of you are much appreciated
