Sakrete vs. Quikrete high strength concrete premix, any quality difference?

[/pine]

If you wanted to go through the effort of that why not just get sand and gravel and start fresh scratch. Also the sackcrete has tiny gravels. Bigger would have to be stronger. But the small gravel will mix in a mortar mixer.

It's really no big deal to add a shovel or coffee can of portland to a mixer when loading bags of premixed depending on how many bags a mixer holds...

Anyone that has mixed their own concrete from scratch using the basic fine aggregate (sand), course aggregate (gravel) and portland knows it's usually easier to buy pre bagged mix and fortify it some extra portland...no having to meter the quantities (i.e., 1-2-3 for 2K# compression strength etc.)....just add some portland for every bag used...
...Now if granite "crusher run" is available i.e., fines through 1.5" aggregate it may be cheaper to use it and portland and just mix it 5 to 1 or better...that is what ready mix companies do...plus admixtures...

BTW...any course aggregate (larger than sand) will damage the rubber paddles of a mortar mixer....

 

[bcp]

The overall strength/integrity of either product can be greatly increased by adding portland cement (the only active ingredient)...

I've heard that, but not how much to add for each weight bag.

Bruce

 

[4570Man]

BTW...any course aggregate (larger than sand) will damage the rubber paddles of a mortar mixer....

My block guys mixer has long sense worn the rubber off and he doesn’t care about mixing gravels. I’ve used it numerous time with his approval for mixing cement. Its far easier to load vs the rotating cement mixers and it’ll mix about 600 pounds vs the 150 the little drum mixers do.

 

[/pine]

I've heard that, but not how much to add for each weight bag.

Bruce

If the bagged mix is rated at 2000 # compression strength...one fifth of the volume should be Portland cement...look up some mixture schedules to figure whatever strength is sought and add accordingly...

 

[Hay Dude]

Assuming he is mixing all at once, but for many projects you don't use it all at once. I know when I am putting in pole barns, I might use 40-50 sacks total, but only tend to use 5-10 at a time while pouring footings or setting posts. Could be days between the various uses.

Thats what I do, too after I dip the post ends.

 

[BackRoad]

Mr. Hay Dude, what are you dipping the post ends in?

How long after dipping do you wait before putting them into the hole and adding the concrete?

(You're dipping pressure treated wood posts?)

 

[Hay Dude]

Mr. Hay Dude, what are you dipping the post ends in?

How long after dipping do you wait before putting them into the hole and adding the concrete?

(You're dipping pressure treated wood posts?)

Yes, but sometimes we get people who think treated lumber is like roundup and they won’t allow it on their property. Also, I do work for people who own barns that were built from locust or cypress and they want the rotted posts to be replaced with same untreated species. So they must be dipped.

 

[BackRoad]

What are you dipping them in?

 

[EddieWalker]

I've always used Quikrete premix, never used the Sakrete. Locally, in bulk (I'll need about 80 60lb bags), Sakrete is aboout 20% cheaper.

Any reason to spend 20% more on Quikrete?

There is no measurable difference between the two. One can be on sale for whatever reason, and then the other will be on sale. Usually they are the same price, but they like to sell the smaller sized sacks in different sizes to confuse you. 40, 50 and 60 pounds sacks are some of the options that I've seen. Home Depot might have 50 pound sacks for less then Lowes is selling their 60 pound sacks for a little more money. Or it could be the other way around. One time they had a bunch of pallets of 40 pound sacks that cost more then the 60 pound sacks. You really have to do the math on price per pound. I found that when doing this in comparing 60 pound sacks to 80 pound sacks, the 60 pound sacks where .01 cent cheaper per pound then the 80 pound sacks. But that was a few years ago.

More important then what brand you get, is how you mix it. To achieve the full strength of concrete, it needs a certain amount of water and it needs to be thoroughly mixed. If too much water is added, it will never achieve it's full strength. If it's not mixed, it will never achieve it's full strength. In a lot of cases, like fence posts, you might not need the full strength out of concrete to hold a post in the ground.

 

[Hay Dude]

Coal tar Creosote or using permacolumns