RVing/Travel trailer questions

[Code54]

Thanks! Why do they all leak? Is there some routine maintenance I should plan on doing to keep it from leaking down the road?
Sorry for all the questions but this is all new to me!

 

[Pipes]

Yes you need to keep an eye on all seams, joints, around windows, doors, etc.. Every time you pull the camper it has the opportunity to move and shake any or all the points that can develop leaks over time. I usually check mine all over a least twice during season. Along with start and close of yearly use.

 

[westcliffe01]

The roof is sealed with a mastic and has virtually zero pitch. If you have an AC on the roof, they all finally sag, water pools around the AC and finally gets into the structure.

The mastic dries out after 2-3 years and the leaks begin and it is basically impossible to work out where the point of entry is. Many of the substances in the framing are not rot proof and damage is irreversible and repairs non financially viable once it has been wet a few times. The campers with welded aluminum frames are a bit better, but still suffer from sagging AC's etc.

The only one that I know of that is different is the scamp, or anything where the entire top portion is molded fiberglass, then it usually also has a better defined slope to drain to.

 

[AndyL52]

you are going to want a one piece roof. no roof seams. they can and do leak ALL THE TIME.

check the floors good for rot. Especially in the bathroom and kitchen. And also over whereever the water tanks are. check inside of cabinets for evidence of water.

As Viperdave said. And check the toilet for leaks, drips from water supply and around the bottom when flushing. Check tub for cracks, in cabinets. Just go over the whole think, top to bottom and end to end with a fine tooth comb.

 

[Dmace]

When we decided to start camping in a travel trailer versus a tent, I started with a cheap used model to see if we like it and how expensive it was with towing and all.

I found a 94 Skyline Nomad 2610 (29ft overall) for only $4000 with little use and a one piece galvanized roof installed from the factory. Queen bed up front, couch and table fold to full sized beds plus two full size bunks in the rear and full bath with tub. It weighs about 5k empty and my 03 RAM QC 4x4 HEMI has no problem hauling it anywhere we go which is usually straight through the White Mountains with 4 in the cab, load of wood in the bed along with 4 bicycles, grill, etc... Due to drag, it actually feels heavier towing than my 6x10 dump trailer loaded to 8k lbs.

Now that we know we love camping, we are currently shopping for a newer unit with a slide as we typically have family and friends come along. With 5 adults in the trailer, it gets tight.

I've found many friends who say brand new is not worth it. One example bought brand new for $26k. 5 years later they owe $19k and it's only worth $13k...

Personally, I feel 5th wheel campers seem smaller than equivalent length travel trailers but are easier to tow and back into sites. I say stick to 30 feet (33ft overall) max. It's hilarious getting setup then watching the guy with the 36-40 ft camper spending all afternoon trying to squeeze into a back-in site.

Lastly, if shopping used check the fridge. They can cost upwards of $1200 to replace or around $500 to rebuild. Pretty sure mine is leaking a little ammonia...

 

[yelbike]

I have a hybrid trailer, I don't recommend one. The canvas is not cheap to replace, and mine sort of needs replacing already at 7 years old. The roofs do leak, routine maintaince is a must. Re-caulk the joists every few years, make sure you use the correct "caulk". Its expensive(like 10-15 per tube) but well worth it, usually available from your RV dealer.
When I shopped I saw the Jayco brand as superior build quality. Sort of the deere/Kubota of campers. You'll use the jayco as yardstick for comparing. My opinion only.
I would recommend the smooth fiberglass side opposed to the aluminium side as well. The fiberglass panels are vacuumed sealed together during manufacturing, so its stronger and less prone to moisture problems. the siding style wall are more like stick framing of your home, heavy yet not stronger and more prone to water/rot damage. Again this only one guys opinion.

I agree with a previous poster about the layout, get dedicated beds for the kids. I would also recommend a front or back master bedroom with a door( its a little more private if you want to "play" with DF). Just my opinion.

Good luck and enjoy!

 

[Dmace]

Also plan on a Weight Distribution Hitch. My truck only squatted about 2" with the camper and normal straight 2-5/16" ball. Problem was the constant bouncing on bumpy roads plus extra squat with the bed loaded. The WD hitch made a huge difference. Most will say you need a $250 motion sensing brake controller or $400 brake line tapping system but my $50 Reese POD timed brake controller has worked fine for both the camper and dump trailer.

Mine is also fully enclosed and self contained (has tanks to hold fresh water, waste water, and septic waste plus fully insulated underneath). It's nice but we never go to a campground without full hookups so it's a waste of space and weight. The insulated underneath is very nice for heating/cooling and noise control.

My next camper will also have a second outside door just for the bathroom. Nothing like having a bunch of dirty muddy kids running through your kitchen to use the bathroom. Don't forget an awning, it's a must have yet some campers don't have one.

 

[jejeosborne]

I will also state to stay away from the hybrid models unless you like the sounds of nature. I have owned one as well as popups and a 32' travel trailer. Campgrounds can be noisy into the early morning hours and having solid walls with a fan on will make things less stressful while trying to get to sleep. Not to mention easier to heat and air condition. Dedicated beds are also useful and nice to not have to transform your table or couch. As mentioned, the appliances, ac, heater, etc all are expensive to replace so check those out.

As far as brake controllers, if you don't have an oem one in your truck, don't skimp and buy a cheap one. You will have your family along and want one to operate at peak levels when called upon. My current truck has one built in but before I used a prodigy model and it was flawless. Before that, I had a cheap timer based one and would have to lower the gain to make it comfortable for routine stops. This lessened my braking power in the event of an emergency.

 

[kenmac]

I bought my Hybrid because it offered more beds than any other mod. In this size 25' 3 pop outs, couch and table also make into a bed. mine also has a slide out in living room ? area. I bought mine used 2005 mod. Paid $4800.00 for it.Removed all the old sealant from around the roof vents,ac, any seams and applied new sealant (eterna bond).

You may not like a hybrid. we like ours

 

[RobertN]

- Check where you think you might be interested in camping; some state parks don't allow longer trailers
- Check the roof carefully. I got a 8 year old 5th wheel, went over with fine tooth comb. Still had the rubber roof fail on our third trip; it peeled back while we were going down the freeway. Fortunately, on the way last day of 4500 mile trip and a sunny day...
- Check the corners carefully. Water will intrude around that trim.
- I like the way our 27' 5th wheel pulls over a tow-behind. But... We give up bed space.
- Don't put canoe etc on roof of trailer. Stay off the roof unless necessary. Just asking for a leak...
- As others have mentioned, check out the fridge and AC; both are expensive to replace
- Mentioned before; RV's shake and flex. Any thru-hole needs to be checked, and recaulked periodically.
- First thing I did when we got the used 5th wheel home, is pull the wheels and drums. Checked/adjusted brakes, cleaned and packed bearings. Both are specced to be done yearly by most axle/brake manufacturers. Most are 12,000 miles, or yearly, which ever comes first.