Sprayer Rust removal from inside sprayer tank

[dweitzel]

I recently purchased a JD 29A, 110 gallon pull behind sprayer, but the inside of the tank has a coating of surface rust. I'm afraid that just using a in tank or aux external filter will just clog up.

Anyone know what I can clean the inside with and re-coat with to keep the rust in check? I thought about looking into some kits to re-do insides of gas tanks for autos. Would something like that work or should I just look for another tank. The tank on the unit is steel and I doubt I could replace it for a good price.

I'll be using it to spray something like 24d for broad leaf control in hay and some pasture grass.

Thanks

Dave

 

[bjcsc]

Hey Dave. Some people fill small tanks with BB's or ball bearings and shake them to break up the inside rust. Sometimes you can find places that will clean them out and seal them for a very reasonable cost...

 

[MikeD74T]

For cleaning-use electrolosis, keep the electrode suspended in the tank without touching the sides. Electrolytic Rust Removal There are several threads on TBN re: this method of rust removal. MikeD74T

 

[dweitzel]

For cleaning-use electrolosis, keep the electrode suspended in the tank without touching the sides. Electrolytic Rust Removal There are several threads on TBN re: this method of rust removal. MikeD74T

Ok, I'm looking at these links, but I need to remove the rust/scale INSIDE of a 110 gallon tank. Can I reverse the electrode to make the entire tank the electrode and put the cleaning solution inside the tank?

I'm thinking of trying to sand blast as much inside the tank as I can through the 6" hole in the top then maybe trying the electrolosis. Can you explain how to hook up the tank, where to put the electrodes to clean the inside? There is no way I can get a big enough tank to put this thing inside of and submerge the entire tank.

Dave

 

[bjcsc]

Electrolysis is a good idea. The solution would have to go inside the tank in order for it to work so you're good there. You would fill the tank, add the powder (Arm and Hammer Laundry detergent ~ tbsp per gallon), suspend the electrode inside the tank, making sure that it does not touch any part of the tank itself, and hook it up (remember - positive to the electrode, negative to the tank). Because you are cleaning a large surface with a single electrode, you'll need to pull it out and clean it every so often as it will cake up with the rust and slow the process down.

 

[bjcsc]

Also, keep in mind that the entire inside of your tank will be rust free, but coated with a layer of iron oxide. You will still need to remove it and seal the tank.

 

[MrJimi]

Do you have a radiator shop nearby? or a tank MFG or maybe a barrel re-conditioner. Be carefull what you put in it, it may not all come out
Jim

 

[dweitzel]

Ok, I think I understand now. I found this link on motorcycle tanks. A picture sure helped me out.

650 Rider > > Content > > How to Documents > > Removing rust from fuel tanks and parts with electrolysis

I did not think of a radiator shop. I'll check that out.

I'm thinking about coating the inside with por-15 after the cleaning. Pretty hard stuff I've had luck with before on autos. I think I can get my arm inside and coat it pretty well.

What about a 10% solution of muratic acid? Would an acid wash clean the inside? I think I saw that mentioned on another post.

Dave

 

[MikeD74T]

Muriatic acid will etch the good steel as well as the rust and must be neutralized after use. Electrolosis only goes after the rust. You can make the electrode as big as will fit into the tank, it just cannot touch the tank while energized. Keep in mind it's surface area that's important so rolling up sheet metal into a spiral will give you a large surface. If you have a battery charger already it's also cheaper to buy soap than acid. MikeD74t