Rust proofing effective?

/ Rust proofing effective? #1  

300UGUY

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Location
Howell, Michigan
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Kubota L3400, Farmall H
I am buying my wife a new vehicle in a few weeks, I am interested in rust proofing. Is any of it really any good? I try to buy new and drive it to death. Most cars around here are showing rust after 5 to 7 years. A lot of salt used around here.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #2  
I have never been interested in rust proofing. Rural here and I come home in the wee hours of the morning many times and the roads not cleared. Two hour round trip. More wear and tear on my drive line from long time driving in 4WD than damage to the finish. I put my maintenance cost into the drive line. I would do both if I could afford.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #3  
Howdy.
Living on the east coast of Canada rust proofing is the only way to go here.
Once a year I have my truck rust proofed usually this time of year.
It will also help when repairs are needed as nuts and bolts turn a lot easier.
My last truck was 20 years old when i sold it.
Cheers.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #4  
One big thing is that RUST is a Electrochemical process and Salt on the body/frame speeds up the Electrochemical Process a LOT. There are several methods to prevent it undercoating/rust proofing spray on is one of them. A newer method is Electrically connecting (bonding) all the panels/frame properly and using a battery charge to neutralize the stray currents slowing the Electrochemical process. These devices bond to clean metal and send out small charge thru the body from one corner to the other.

The advantage of coatings is to prevent water/salt from getting too the metal. When O2 and other chemicals contact steel it converts it back into Iron Oxide at varying rates. More moisture, salts, chemicals the faster the reaction.

For the Electrical Devices to work they need to have all the body panels bonded together well, (little copper straps with self drilled screws attaching all the body panels to frame.) You see these on hood and deck-lid hinges/doors most common but rarely on Fenders or Bumpers (when they were metal.) My Brother-n-law had one of the electrical devices installed on his 93 F150. The front and rear Bumpers both rusted normally however the fenders and bed were real clean still vs trucks without it. He was NOT one to WASH his truck all that often either... It DID draw current from the battery all the time about like a security system but he drove it 5+ times a week to work so never had issues with dead battery.

The best bet would be for a NEW car to make sure everything is well bonded with wire straps. Install one of the electrical devices THEN have it fully undercoated.

One thing with undercoating is to make sure ALL of the DRAIN HOLES remain open. Dirt and Undercoating can clog them up and water sets in there & salt gets added (well we all know those results.)

I have also seen cars where owners used motor oil/trans fluid and sprayed underside of everything
that lasted well vs undercoating/nothing. BUT usually those people are ones who wash cars in winter to clean off salt too...



Mark
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #5  
I am buying my wife a new vehicle in a few weeks, I am interested in rust proofing. Is any of it really any good? I try to buy new and drive it to death. Most cars around here are showing rust after 5 to 7 years. A lot of salt used around here.

I can only speak of Ziebart. I did have the Ziebart coating done on my last new pickup - but...

The Ziebart dealer/installers drilled access holes everywhere, sprayed in this black tar looking coating, and stuck yellow hole covers in many holes. Now - this was a brown truck, now with yellow dots in many exterior holes. Furthermore, the black goo dripped for the next 10 years, sometimes down door panels, floor, etc.

I was really unhappy with the Ziebart installation system. On the other hand, the pickup never rusted one iota. Hopefully the rustproofing process is better now.

I did think that new vehicles came already with rustproofing? Did I not read that they were dipped in phosphoric acid or some such mixture before painting? And that they come with some period of no rust warranty?
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #6  
Galvanized panels are nice - better than it used to be on a chevy pu, but I would still rustproof, including frame. I never used to replace brakelines, brakes - no need to. Since my area gave up on sand and turned to salt, by 60,000 miles everything needs replacing. Rustproofing is the only answer I have for it.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #7  
new cars are rust proofed at the factory .... good for 2 years ( approx) ... then have it rust proofed every year after that .....
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #8  
I am buying my wife a new vehicle in a few weeks, I am interested in rust proofing. Is any of it really any good? I try to buy new and drive it to death. Most cars around here are showing rust after 5 to 7 years. A lot of salt used around here.
My wife's 2000 VW Passat originally came with rustproofing from the factory - it was clear, waxy substance with a yellowish tint. ... possibly Waxoyl:

Waxoyl USA

Best stuff I've ever ran across ... 14 years later and the only places the vehicle exhibits any real evidence of rusting are the undercarriage and those places where something got banged into the car and the paint got chipped off.

Both are understandable, the undercarriage given the sandblasting action of road debris, and the light surface rust on the body, given the lack of paint.

I don't know what treatment or paint process they were using, but it took over 5 years - which included being driven in Ohio winters - for any rust to develop, where a large section of paint (3" x 4") got chipped off the passenger door.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #9  
My 20 year old 4x4 3/4 ton Chevy has been getting annual rust prevention treatments from Rust Proofing Products in the United States & Canada since I bought it used 17 years ago. It's still solid even with all the road salt I subject it to. I'm fortunate in that my dealer who applies it does a very good job and as with so many things, the quality/effectiveness of a job depends a great deal on how well the work is done.

Stay away from the electronic rustproofing stuff, it's a scam and will not work on vehicles. Likewise stay away from any tar like treatments, like the old Ziebart stuff. They tend to not cover everything and if they do, they often form pockets that trap road salt water and are worse than nothing or else it block drain holes.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #10  
I recently traded my 02 GMC Jimmy that looked like new. No rust but then I had a local oil treatment every year. At $75/yr I figure that's cheap. Sad part is it did not improve the trade in value but I did drive a clean looking car while I owned it.
Dealer is trying to convince me that my new KIA does not need rust treatment but I'll do an oil job anyway. Better safe than sorry.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #11  
Rustcheck is great.

Krown is even better!!! I have a 95 Tacoma that is still mint (you remember these old Tacos, the ones that rotted so bad Toyota had to recall them), a direct result of annual Krowning.

Yes there are holes drilled in the pillars, but is worth it. Krown is absloutely amazing and necessary for protection here in the land of Salt (ocean and highway).

I do it myself now. I buy it in 5 Gal. pails.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #12  
I spent over 30 years taking apart cutting apart vehicles to repair them, after they were wrecked.

Most of that was in the hay day of rustproofing.

The first thing you learn, is 90% of these rust-roofing outfits are a complete, and total rip off. I am talking about they drill hole, and give one shot right where the hole is, and putting a plug in.

The next 8% are decent places, trying to do a decent job, but still failing to get the material where it needs to be.

The final 2% do it right.

The majority of cars, eventually needed rust repair, from the moisture that collected around the rustproofing plugs. Which is ironic, since that was done to stop rust.

I remember one Dodge Caravan, that I cut the side off of which the customer said was rustproofed when new, and taken back every year, for the warranty required, paid touch up. There was almost no rustproofing material inside it. The Irate customer who stop by and saw this, called the rust-proofers to my shop to see it, and they said the reason we can't see it is, ...get ready, this is good: ... We could not see it, because it was invisible!

The whole scam was predicated on people selling their car before they made a warranty claim. The few claims they paid for rust repair, were peanuts, compared to the money they charged, for treatments they never actually did.

Cars have today, (Chrysler, and Mercedes were the last holdouts, but surely have given in and switched since I retired), have galvanized sheet metal. The bodies on most vehicles, with normal driving, will last 12-15 years without much maintenance.

My 1997 Villager, is just starting to get holes in it this year. 17+ years, is pretty good, considering I did not rust proof it. (I always did my own).

So, my recommendation is, undercoating is not a bad idea, if you plan to keep it, more than 10 years. For those who don't understand the difference, undercoating is spraying the bottom of the car only. Those areas receive minimal protection from the factory. And, you can see it when they are done, so they can't rip you off.

However, I would not suggest most people need to spend money on rustproofing. Because, you are probably going to get ripped off anyway.

And, forget about that electronic crap too. It's been around since the early 80's. I have seen it over, and over, and over. It's a real nice "feel good" thing. But, it does not work.

P.T. Barnum was right. :thumbsup:

The biggest two things you can do to make your car last, is to NOT wash it, and put it in the garage. It stays wet for days in cracks, and crevices. And, do NOT wash it when its really cold. It does more harm than good. The salt is not doing anything at those temperatures, but the moisture you just put in all the crevices, and inside the doors, can do damage each time it freezes and expands. Wait until it warms up, or your car is already all wet due to thawing, to wash it.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #13  
Back between 1976 and 1978 my high school started using Dodge vans to haul kids to school. One bus driver washed her van once a week. The other drivers never washed their vans. The van that was washed looked like new in three years. The others looked like they suffered 3 years of Cleveland OH salt.
 
/ Rust proofing effective? #14  
Anecdotal evidence.

You need moisture for a vehicle to rust.
 
 
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