Rotary cutting

   / Rotary cutting #21  
I'm going to go against what others have said but bear with me.

For the most part a heavy duty rotary mower is made to cut up trees more than 2" in diameter. The light duty ones are usually rated for 1". If all you are doing is mowing grass in a field then save your money and get the light duty. As long as it has a stump jumper it will handle anything you can throw at it for years. Just make sure the gearbox is rated for more hp than your tractor has.

I run a 5' light duty mower with my CK20 which only has 16.2 PTO hp. The limiting factor is speed over the ground. The tractor is a hydro drive and in low range, where I keep it 99% of the time, it is slow. So even with the pedal all the way down the tractor is not moving all that fast and will cut grass and weeds with no problem. In thicker stuff I just slow down. If I can get the little tractor to push over a sapling I can cut it up with the mower by inching forward as slow as possible. Heavier stuff, such as a cross-tie hidden in leaves at the edge of a woods, just means I stop and reverse as soon as the blades hit it. So far I haven't broke a shear bolt and I don't know if the little tractor even has enough power to break one.

For the heavier stuff we use a 52-hp tractor with an 40 year old heavy duty Ford 6' mower. I have cleard several acres of bottom land that had trees about 2" diameter with it. I have also welded, bolted, and chained it back together several times. The larger tractor will move twice as fast as the little one even pulling the larger mower. I have put the 6' mower on my Kioti and once I get the blades to spinning I can slowly mow with it but it is so slow you can't get much done.

If you are only mowing 3-4 acres of grass then a heavy duty mower would be money wasted. If the ground is covered in 1"-2" diameter saplings then you might need the heavy duty.
 
   / Rotary cutting #22  
A mower should be level from side to side and adjusted so the front is lower than the back. If the back is lower then you are cutting the grass twice and it will put unnecessary strain on the tractor and mower.
 
   / Rotary cutting #23  
So far I haven't broke a shear bolt and I don't know if the little tractor even has enough power to break one.

Doesn't this mean that you ought to be using a weaker shear bolt? The question, I think, is, "Does the tractor have enough power to damage its own drivetrain if the shock from the collision travels up the PTO?" Presumably, the answer is yes. What grade shear bolts are you using?
 
   / Rotary cutting #24  
gr2 shear bolts are common.. some limited applications use a gr5... have to be carefull there..
 
   / Rotary cutting #25  
gr2 shear bolts are common.. some limited applications use a gr5... have to be carefull there..

That's why I'm wondering what RSKY is using. It seems like even a relatively small tractor should be able to shear a gr2 bolt.
 
   / Rotary cutting #26  
You are only mowing 4 acres. 2-3 hours tops. A 6 foot cutter will cost a good bit more. I don't see that much benefit. Your rear tires flatten vegetation as they go over them if it is very tall. Don't worry about the 3 inch thing. Having a cutter a bit narrower than yor tractor can keep you out of trouble. If your tractor clears, your cutter will also. If you get a wider cutter, you will forget.
 
   / Rotary cutting #27  
   / Rotary cutting #30  
with the 10'er I've had 2 'oops' errors... a skinned a fence post and a knocked down a 3" to 4" sappling. that's been in 10 years. both were within the first year. the skinned fence post litterally skinned, and didn't knock out or over.. just shaved about an inch off the 6" diameter round treated post.. I thought for sure it was gonna come down and yank the fence.. but it didn't. ont he tree.. i was mowing around a stand of scrubby trees and really didn't care about them. not that i was TRYING to take them out.. just wasn't overly concerned with the one I took out.. :) since then.. no miss-haps.. :) and none with the 15' mower.. luckilly.. :)
 

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