Rotary Cutter Used Questions

[aTexasYankee]

ETA, just realized I probably put this on wrong section. If mods are active, please excuse my ignorance and move, I'm using Tapatalk and navigation isn't always easy.

Hi all.

Long time lurker, first time poster. I have a Kioti CK30 tier 3 (2014) shuttle that I absolutely love. Other than FEL and box blade, I have never used any other implements (box blade was hitched by dealer and never have taken it off). I have been in the market for a rotary cutter and came across a used one. It's for sale by an older good ol' boy selling the farm (literally) and he has a used Mohawk (?) 5' rotary cutter for $150. He states he hit a stump with it and one side stopped cutting and was honest with the issue from the start. I asked about gear box and he said it is not damaged and other side cuts just fine. I'm going out there this afternoon to inspect it.

My questions are many, but primarily, what do I need to know about what I'm walking into?

I couldn't find much info on Mohawk other than it could be made by Ag-meier here in Belton, Texas (I'm in North Texas). Is it all good brand mower and worth taking a chance on?

What could be the issue?

Is it possible to damage RC beyond repair by hitting and stump?

Are parts easy to find?

Is it worth the hassle for $150 + time and parts investment?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

I'm handy so I'm not worried about being outside my elements labor wise, but know nothing about RC parts and repair.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Don't walk away, RUN AWAY!!

SR

 

[aTexasYankee]

Don't walk away, RUN AWAY!!

SR

Could you elaborate? Is it not worth my time and money? Or is the brand not even worth $150? Most decent quality RCs I see run $1000+ for the light duty ones around here. I can get a TSC new one for $850, but hear mixed things about them. So even if I have to put in $350 into $150, I'd still be saving lots of money. The Ag-meier brand seems to get pretty good reviews. $150 isn't really a huge risk, all things considered. While my time is free, mostly, it's the "can it be fixed" part I'm clueless about.

 

[JRobyn]

The story about "one side" seems very "off". Being just a 5ft cutter, this likely has just a single gearbox and main blade shaft, right? So even if one of the two swinging blades off that single shaft broke off due to hitting something, the remaining blade would still cut all the way around. But the whole cutter would vibrate so bad because of the imbalance that it would shake everything to pieces!

You could probably replace the stump jumper pan, assuming it's damaged for maybe $100, but they are usually a bear to remove (very large tapered and/or splined connection to the gearbox output shaft). Two new blades at maybe $30-40 each. Worst case, the gearbox itself is damaged. That would run about $150-$200 depending on rating. If it hit something hard, a broken gear tooth may have resulted (or worse).

All of this assumes that you can fit "standard" aftermarket parts and not have to pay a premium for manufacturer-proprietary stuff. And all of this is moot if the frame is rusting apart or bent. One insidious problem I have seen with older used cutters - if the gearbox has loosened any from the frame, the mounting holes may have wallowed out to such a degree that you cannot get the box solidly mounted without fabbing and welding in a replacement or reinforcing plate.

 

[aTexasYankee]

The story about "one side" seems very "off". Being just a 5ft cutter, this likely has just a single gearbox and main blade shaft, right? So even if one of the two swinging blades off that single shaft broke off due to hitting something, the remaining blade would still cut all the way around. But the whole cutter would vibrate so bad because of the imbalance that it would shake everything to pieces!

You could probably replace the stump jumper pan, assuming it's damaged for maybe $100, but they are usually a bear to remove (very large tapered and/or splined connection to the gearbox output shaft). Two new blades at maybe $30-40 each. Worst case, the gearbox itself is damaged. That would run about $150-$200 depending on rating. If it hit something hard, a broken gear tooth may have resulted (or worse).

All of this assumes that you can fit "standard" aftermarket parts and not have to pay a premium for manufacturer-proprietary stuff. And all of this is moot if the frame is rusting apart or bent. One insidious problem I have seen with older used cutters - if the gearbox has loosened any from the frame, the mounting holes may have wallowed out to such a degree that you cannot get the box solidly mounted without fabbing and welding in a replacement or reinforcing plate.

So I went out and looked at it. It's an old unit, probably mid 90's. It's a Mohawk B5. The deck is in great shape, no rusted weak points, nothing. Some surface rust where paint had come off over the years. The plate where gear box is mounted is rock solid. I stood on it and I'm 350 lbs. and it didn't budge or crunch like rusted metal does. Opened up the oil plug and oil poured out every where so it hasn't been leaking. Under side looks good as well. The front underside has a lip where I'm assuming a shield of some sort was, and should be, mounted there and it has a little bend in it, but I could probably bend it back by hand with pliers and has no structural significance I can see. The wheel has dry rot, easy fix. No visible signs of bent frame metal or welded repairs or anything like that. Blades turn easily and spin PTO shaft, smoothly. I don't see any type of shear pin or clutch, but also looks like a hand me down PTO shaft. There's definitely an "off balance" feel when spinning similar to when you bend or knick a lawn mower blade badly. NO signs of leaking oil under deck.

Talking to the old guy he said one blade likes to get caught "closed" so only one blade cuts. He ran over a piece of firewood, which caused his dilemma. He's just old, retired, and sold the farm so he never took the steps to diagnose and repair it himself. That's what he meant by one side only cutting. Old Texan country boy is hard to understand at times. Drive shaft does not look bent at all (no wobble when turning). So I'm thinking he bent the stump plate and/or messed the blades up. I've seen some nightmare YouTube videos trying to get the plate off... Yikes.

So, are stump plates universal? Or are they model specific?

Same question, but the blades?

Slip clutch vs shear pin?

Could I be missing something else causing it to be off balance?

Do I need a guard in the front of the intake?

 

[Xfaxman]

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Talking to the old guy he said one blade likes to get caught "closed" so only one blade cuts. He ran over a piece of firewood, which caused his dilemma.------------------------

From the tie down strap I'm guessing that you bought it, so we need more pictures.

The blades on mine get one caught "closed", every time I shut it down. But the blade swings out when It starts rotating.

Just look under it and see if something is bent. It may not have a "stump jumper", some just have a straight bar that the blades mount on.

 

[aTexasYankee]

I didn't take pictures under it... Didn't think of pics until it was already loaded. It does have a stump bump. I'm almost 100% sure it's that which got bent. I swung by place I got tractor to get some parts to replace it and instead ended up dropping it off there for repairs after seeing one too many videos of the nightmare it is to remove the stump bump. Figured I'd let them deal with it. So $150 + $275 quoted in repair = new to me rotary cutter for $425 (so far). I think that is a pretty darn good deal. Plus side is I ended up taking home a new Titan 7' landscape rake while I was waiting. Already have three hours use on it today helping with cleaning up after felling a bunch of oaks.

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup:

 

[JRobyn]

Stump jumper probably is brand/model specific, blades are much more likely to be able to use "universal". Either way, for $275 to repair, they'll take care of it and sounds like a deal!

My Bus Hog brand also sometimes gets one (or both) of the swinging blades cocked back against the stump jumper. Makes it shake like a demon for a bit when first starting it turning, but centrifugal force quickly throws them out where they belong. So that's normal, and as-designed.

If it was me, I'd definitely have at least a front chain guard. Preferably a rear too. Just for safety. Stuff can come out from under a hog at very high velocities.

And same on a slip clutch (preferred) or at least a shear pin. Why risk your expensive to repair PTO? Slip clutches do require a bit of seasonal maintenance. Plenty of threads about that on here.

 

[aTexasYankee]

Stump jumper probably is brand/model specific, blades are much more likely to be able to use "universal". Either way, for $275 to repair, they'll take care of it and sounds like a deal!

My Bus Hog brand also sometimes gets one (or both) of the swinging blades cocked back against the stump jumper. Makes it shake like a demon for a bit when first starting it turning, but centrifugal force quickly throws them out where they belong. So that's normal, and as-designed.

If it was me, I'd definitely have at least a front chain guard. Preferably a rear too. Just for safety. Stuff can come out from under a hog at very high velocities.

And same on a slip clutch (preferred) or at least a shear pin. Why risk your expensive to repair PTO? Slip clutches do require a bit of seasonal maintenance. Plenty of threads about that on here.

Thanks for directing me to slip clutch maintenance. I think in going to just do shear pins. Slip clutches seem more hassle for my situation. They suggested I throw new blades on so that's another $125. Still under $600 so I'm not complaining too much.