My Woods Brushbull 72" cutter has 2 metal "straps" running from the toplink attachment area spreading out to the rear of the deck. They bend substantially during operation. I'm wondering if I'm somehow setting the hydraulic toplink too long to accommodate the ups and downs of my property. You can readily see the stress in the metal where they bend. Paint cracks off at those spots. Any suggestions??
ROTARY CUTTER STRUTS
- Thread starter flINTLOCK
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
The same "struts" do the same thing on my BB840. 3rd season and not problems SO FAR. They looked like a poor design from day one.
Does your woods have a flexible toplink connector? Most will have a hinged connection point so the tailwheel end of the cutter can flex upwards if needed. If yours has a hinged setup, you might have your toplink set too long. Check the instructions to be sure it was put together correctly too. Sometimes they are assembled backwards. If assembled correctly, and the toplink is adjusted correctly, your rear of the cutter should be able to float up or down at least 6" from level to folllow the contours of the gound without binding.
Soundguy
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I agree with Ford850.. those straps are bending because they are being put under compressional stresses as the mower tries to rotate around the lower lift pns.. .. this maens the toplink is too long.. or the flex connection is not installed or working right. If your TNT has a 'float' onthe toplink cyl... I'd use that setting.
Soundguy
Soundguy
JerryG
Super Member
I don't know what kind of remote valve you have but if it has a float position use it. That will take care of the problem.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Soundguy said:
Not neccesarily so.... There is a flexable link at the A-frame and these struts attach to it. There is enough "float" in that flex point to allow 18" to 24" of movement up and down at the tailwheel. (on my 84" BB840) In some cases (extremely rough ground) you'll get more travel than they allow. NORMALLY, with a rigid "strut" it would force the mower to raise, both front and rear. With these rather flimsy flatbar struts, they simply bend and flex to absorb the compression. But it DOESN'T take full movement of the flexable link to make the bars bend. The design is so that even with flex remaining unused (in the A-frame flex point) the struts still bend as they offer less resistance than the flexable movement built in to accomodate the problem. I use a hydraulic top link with my BB840. I've tried shorter and longer positioning. Neither yields satisfactory results.
They're working as designed, just that the design isn't the best unless you're mowing flat ground. This design (and mower) is a perfect candidate for using a section of link CHAIN in place of these flimsy bars. I'm thinking the built in flex linkage would move even easier that a normal "floating" of a hydraulic cylinder. The flimsy bars may (and in my estimation WOULD) still flex even with the hydraulic top link in float. (My hyd. top link has pilot operated check valve.....it doesn't float)
They're just too flimsy.
My personal evaluation of the problem is, Woods uses the same basic set-up with light, medium and heavy duty mounted mowers, 7' and smaller. The bars are (barely) adaquate for light duty (BBxx) but render themselves too light for medium (BBxxx) and heavy (BBxxxx) duty models.
I've never been real pleased with the BB840 for a number of reasons, this being just one of them.
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Soundguy
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Great minds think alike..
Soundguy
Soundguy
Soundguy
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I don't think I'd like that design very much.. or at least i wouldn't prefer it anyway..
Soundguy
Soundguy
Farmwithjunk said:
flINTLOCK said:
Flintlock,
Can you post a picture of your typical setup? I have a BB600 and haven't noticed any bending. Just wondered how you were set up in comparison.
Can you also check the looseness of the top flex link and strap bolts. They should be all free to rotate. If they were torqued down hard, I could imaging them being forced to bend when they should rotate.
jb
